Not to let the clothing guys have all the fun, here are the details of construction for Martegani and A/E shoes care of the bandsaw.....
The Victims.....(oops, lost pic of original A/E....is an 5+ year old Bradley)
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View of 3 piece (outsole/midsole/insole) Blake/Rapid construction:
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View of Welted (outsole/cork+glue/insole) construction:
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Comparison view:
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Notes - both factories have the machines set up to stitch 6 spi for sole/welt work and, despite the material difference, both put 1/2 inch between your feet and the pavement.
Shank Areas:
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Note: Martegani is using a Texon shank piece with an integrated steel shank (narrow) while A/E, as we know, uses a 'shankless' construction. There is a piece of Texon like material in the heel/shank area of the A/E that I assume they use as a plate for the nails, as the heels are nailed on from the outside up. Martegani heel bases are nailed from the inside down...more on heels later.
Neither shoe is seamed anywhere:
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I had always thought A/E used a different outsole source....actually never heard of this company, but from what I can gather, they are out of business.
Uppers:
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Again, very similiar work....both use cotton interlinings, both factories set the machines to stitch 13 spi on the upper seams, obviously all seams skived. A/E backs the eyelets with grommets, Martegani does not.
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Both use compressed leather heel cups....both are the same size.
Notes: Both manufacturers use man-made toe puffs and both sprung back without denting, which is the reason to use these. Both uppers are analine finished and carry the same depth....the A/E is an old calf that I don't think they source any longer, but it is really good - someone else will have to scratch off a newer pair to see the depth of finish. The A/E uses a thicker lining of looser grain...Martegani is about 2/3 the thickness and of tighter grain. The A/E insoles are about the best in the business, IMO. There is quite a bit more glue than cork here though, and you can see the great difference in the forming of the insoles after wear. I am sure this varies with each pair of A/E.
Outsole/insole leather:
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Interesting picture to look closely at.....see the grain structure difference between the two soles? The grain on the Martegani is very tight, which would explain the lack of customers taking me up on sending our shoes back to the factory for re-sole work....in two years of wholesale and 4 years of retail, I have yet to have one sent to me for re-soling. I am sure some have needed it, but I have not been sent any. In A/E's defense, I know for a fact that they have long tried to use US suppliers for outsoles, and the availability here (I think are all gone, now) is far different than what the Italians can depend on. As a final note, Martegani soaks all outsoles with water and rolls with metal rollers after the stitching is done....this must compress the fibers even more, as well as closing the seam on the outside stitch without the need for a cut/covered channel.
Heels:
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Here was the only real surprise to me.....Martegani is using a tight grained layered leather combination heel and A/E is using a fiberboard toplift over a rubber base. I don't think it has any bearing on wear, but this might explain the somewhat consistent, minor seperation between the outsole and heel base that you can often see on A/E shoes.
End of story....comments welcomed.
The Victims.....(oops, lost pic of original A/E....is an 5+ year old Bradley)
[IMG]
[/IMG]View of 3 piece (outsole/midsole/insole) Blake/Rapid construction:
[IMG]
[/IMG]View of Welted (outsole/cork+glue/insole) construction:
[IMG]
[/IMG]Comparison view:
[IMG]
[/IMG]Notes - both factories have the machines set up to stitch 6 spi for sole/welt work and, despite the material difference, both put 1/2 inch between your feet and the pavement.
Shank Areas:
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]Note: Martegani is using a Texon shank piece with an integrated steel shank (narrow) while A/E, as we know, uses a 'shankless' construction. There is a piece of Texon like material in the heel/shank area of the A/E that I assume they use as a plate for the nails, as the heels are nailed on from the outside up. Martegani heel bases are nailed from the inside down...more on heels later.
Neither shoe is seamed anywhere:
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]I had always thought A/E used a different outsole source....actually never heard of this company, but from what I can gather, they are out of business.
Uppers:
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]Again, very similiar work....both use cotton interlinings, both factories set the machines to stitch 13 spi on the upper seams, obviously all seams skived. A/E backs the eyelets with grommets, Martegani does not.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Both use compressed leather heel cups....both are the same size.
Notes: Both manufacturers use man-made toe puffs and both sprung back without denting, which is the reason to use these. Both uppers are analine finished and carry the same depth....the A/E is an old calf that I don't think they source any longer, but it is really good - someone else will have to scratch off a newer pair to see the depth of finish. The A/E uses a thicker lining of looser grain...Martegani is about 2/3 the thickness and of tighter grain. The A/E insoles are about the best in the business, IMO. There is quite a bit more glue than cork here though, and you can see the great difference in the forming of the insoles after wear. I am sure this varies with each pair of A/E.
Outsole/insole leather:
[IMG]
[/IMG]Interesting picture to look closely at.....see the grain structure difference between the two soles? The grain on the Martegani is very tight, which would explain the lack of customers taking me up on sending our shoes back to the factory for re-sole work....in two years of wholesale and 4 years of retail, I have yet to have one sent to me for re-soling. I am sure some have needed it, but I have not been sent any. In A/E's defense, I know for a fact that they have long tried to use US suppliers for outsoles, and the availability here (I think are all gone, now) is far different than what the Italians can depend on. As a final note, Martegani soaks all outsoles with water and rolls with metal rollers after the stitching is done....this must compress the fibers even more, as well as closing the seam on the outside stitch without the need for a cut/covered channel.
Heels:
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]Here was the only real surprise to me.....Martegani is using a tight grained layered leather combination heel and A/E is using a fiberboard toplift over a rubber base. I don't think it has any bearing on wear, but this might explain the somewhat consistent, minor seperation between the outsole and heel base that you can often see on A/E shoes.
End of story....comments welcomed.
.
