Hey guys, I've just got a few basic questions on some of the sartorial terms often discussed here. 1) What are pad-stitched lapels? What is pick-stitching? 2) What is the difference between blake and goodyear construction? 3) How is a half-canvassed suit constructed? 4) What makes a 7-fold tie so special? What is self-tipping? Thanks.
I'll take a shot at the terms I know... 1) a) Pad stiched lapels are lapels with the lining built up of layers of canvas, horsehair, or other materials and stiched to the lapel using many, many very small stiches through the outside of the suiting material - so small (looping one thread of the suiting fabric) that they are not visible. b) Pick stitching is the outlining of lapels, pocket flaps, etc with very small stitiches of a matching or contrasting thread to show detail. 2) There are others on the board who can answer this better than I. 3) The lapels and upper chest of a jacket is canvas construction and the lower portion is fused. Though there are variances in what some people call half canvas - some only the lapels, some the upper chest only - learn how to tell buy feel how a jacket is constructed, and you'll never be confused by what a PR firm has written. 4) a) Seven fold ties are constructed by folding silk 7 times to form a tie, bulk is created by the folded silk (or other fabric), rather than from an interfacing. Sometimes, you will find both the 7 folds and a thin interfacing for additional bulk ( I have an Isaia that is made this way). b) Self tipped ties are lined with the same fabric as the face of the tie rather than a contrasting or logo fabric.