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An Acute Style

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ericgereghty

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Tuesday greys
19E2CBF8-D133-458A-9387-3AD2384D6325.jpeg
 

WoolyLamb

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I like the outfit, but this is possibly the small tie knot ever tied. Someone called Guinness to verify.

Also, I like the light colored socks here.
It gets super thin around the neck so it gets even smaller this is compounded by being too short for me. I can’t let it go so I make it as long as possible.
 

Encore

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Encore - perfect as always any details on the cloth please, weight, Souce code etc thanks
The suit is from a RTW brand in China, it says that it's made with 100% superfine Australia Merino Wool Flannel, but the miller info was not provided, it's a dark grey Herringbone as you can see from the pic, the weight is 370g. Thanks for the comment:)
 

Thin White Duke

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Sorry AAS I know I’m beating a dead horse here - or beating a zombie horse that just refuses to die! - but this suit is exemplary in terms of fit, cut etc but for me is absolutely destroyed by that f**king buttonhole. Why? Just why?

I know you like your Ivy and Ivy-inspired gear but as I learn more about Ivy I understand it to be gear that’s influenced by professors and in turn students going back to the early twentieth century but at its peak around the mid sixties. Items were and remain popular because they hit the mid point sweet spot in terms of casual - formal and could be versatile/adaptable without looking too schlubby or too formally stiff and starchy.

A fitted charcoal (?) pinstripe three piece suit is perhaps the pinnacle item of business-formal and totally at home in the upper echelons of boardrooms, banking, finance and legal. I can’t see a connection in any way to the louche, sacky, lived-in unfussy campus origins of Ivy gear so why they made that suit with that hideous button hole remains a mystery to me. They buttonholes are bad enough in bis-caz odd jackets like gun clubs, herringbones, PoW etc (on display throughout this thread, seemingly moreso recently) but on a formal business three piece? I ask again - why? Who would argue that it would look sooo much better without? Just a standard 2B or a 3B with a top button roll that would look cool if left open to show off the waistcoat would have been matchless!
 

WoolyLamb

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Sorry AAS I know I’m beating a dead horse here - or beating a zombie horse that just refuses to die! - but this suit is exemplary in terms of fit, cut etc but for me is absolutely destroyed by that f**king buttonhole. Why? Just why?

I know you like your Ivy and Ivy-inspired gear but as I learn more about Ivy I understand it to be gear that’s influenced by professors and in turn students going back to the early twentieth century but at its peak around the mid sixties. Items were and remain popular because they hit the mid point sweet spot in terms of casual - formal and could be versatile/adaptable without looking too schlubby or too formally stiff and starchy.

A fitted charcoal (?) pinstripe three piece suit is perhaps the pinnacle item of business-formal and totally at home in the upper echelons of boardrooms, banking, finance and legal. I can’t see a connection in any way to the louche, sacky, lived-in unfussy campus origins of Ivy gear so why they made that suit with that hideous button hole remains a mystery to me. They buttonholes are bad enough in bis-caz odd jackets like gun clubs, herringbones, PoW etc (on display throughout this thread, seemingly moreso recently) but on a formal business three piece? I ask again - why? Who would argue that it would look sooo much better without? Just a standard 2B or a 3B with a top button roll that would look cool if left open to show off the waistcoat would have been matchless!
Man all the things you think are cons are super pro’s in the Ivy style. Not to mention he is an academic !

What you are asking for is like asking you to wear no more blue and only two button jackets. Everyone has their own style and you don’t have to wear it.
 

CLH03

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Sorry AAS I know I’m beating a dead horse here - or beating a zombie horse that just refuses to die! - but this suit is exemplary in terms of fit, cut etc but for me is absolutely destroyed by that f**king buttonhole. Why? Just why?

I know you like your Ivy and Ivy-inspired gear but as I learn more about Ivy I understand it to be gear that’s influenced by professors and in turn students going back to the early twentieth century but at its peak around the mid sixties. Items were and remain popular because they hit the mid point sweet spot in terms of casual - formal and could be versatile/adaptable without looking too schlubby or too formally stiff and starchy.

A fitted charcoal (?) pinstripe three piece suit is perhaps the pinnacle item of business-formal and totally at home in the upper echelons of boardrooms, banking, finance and legal. I can’t see a connection in any way to the louche, sacky, lived-in unfussy campus origins of Ivy gear so why they made that suit with that hideous button hole remains a mystery to me. They buttonholes are bad enough in bis-caz odd jackets like gun clubs, herringbones, PoW etc (on display throughout this thread, seemingly moreso recently) but on a formal business three piece? I ask again - why? Who would argue that it would look sooo much better without? Just a standard 2B or a 3B with a top button roll that would look cool if left open to show off the waistcoat would have been matchless!
This is entertaining no one at this point. He’s a math professor, I think it’s okay if he wants to wear ivy.
 

Thin White Duke

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Both missing the point.
I don’t have a beef with AAS or anyone else wearing Ivy.
My point was I don’t understand where an Ivy feature like that friggin buttonhole belongs in a classic business formal suit.

We all have our likes and dislikes that’s fine. As much as I dislike that button hole (and it’s apparent ubiquity on this thread!) I kinda get it in tweedy odd jackets etc. I don’t get it in a business formal three piece pinstripe - hardly a mainstay of Ivy style.

To bend your analogy somewhat this is like me getting a three button tuxedo made with slim notch lapels. No matter what our stylistic preferences may be, there are some places where they just don’t belong!

PS - didn’t realise I was here to be “entertaining”. Must try harder. Take my wife - please! 😁😁
 
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blewnote1

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Both missing the point.
I don’t have a beef with AAS or anyone else wearing Ivy.
My point was I don’t understand where an Ivy feature like that friggin buttonhole belongs in a classic business formal suit.

We all have our likes and dislikes that’s fine. As much as I dislike that button hole (and it’s apparent ubiquity on this thread!) I kinda get it in tweedy odd jackets etc. I don’t get it in a business formal three piece pinstripe - hardly a mainstay of Ivy style.

To bend your analogy somewhat this is like me getting a three button tuxedo made with slim notch lapels. No matter what our stylistic preferences may be, there are some places where they just don’t belong!

PS - didn’t realise I was here to be “entertaining”. Must try harder. Take my wife - please! 😁😁

I am by no means an expert on the history of clothing, but it is my understanding (and a quick Google confirmed this) that the 3 roll 2 came about when 3 button suits fell out of favor in the early 1900s and university students, who didn't have the coin to re-buy their entire wardrobe, created it by pressing their 3 button jackets into the 3 roll 2 format.

Brooks Brothers, one of the pioneers of RTW clothing in the US, took note and copied the style (why they made a superflous buttonhole a feature instead of just pushing the 2 button is beyond me, but that's what they say they did) and spread it through the country. It became such a signature part of their business that their iconic Number 1 sack suit which became one of the most sold suits in America.

So while now it has connotations of Ivy league and casualness, it stands to reason that one of Brooks Brothers most popular suit models was used for not just "country" suits, but for "town" suits worn by businessmen, which would almost definitely have included pinstripes as a cloth pattern.

You certainly can dislike it, but I think it's not just from the Ivy tradition, but really harkens back to the golden age of dressing from the 1930s-50s.

Oddly enough, you would have fit in just fine with the people at the turn of the century (that would be just before 1900, and again in the 1920s I believe) as they liked a hard 3 button jacket style.
 

An Acute Style

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@Thin White Duke

This is my personal opinion on the matter. This is not based in history to my understanding. I think a 3/2 roll jacket is the most symmetric arrangement. The middle button is used while the top AND bottom are not. My fondness for roll is well documented. I haven’t tried to roll up to third button but I imagine it would underemphasize the V-zone. The 3/2 roll gives a nice v-zone and treats the buttons symmetrically. Win-win.

In a 2 button jacket the bottom button is not used. Why not just go one button if you care so much about functionality. I’ll wait for you to explain that to me.

You should also get rid of the breast pocket as many people don’t use it for anything other than a superfluous pocket square. Buttons on the cuff also useless unless they are working. We can keep going.
 

An Acute Style

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It gets super thin around the neck so it gets even smaller this is compounded by being too short for me. I can’t let it go so I make it as long as possible.
In my experience, knit ties are abundantly available on eBay. To be honest, I haven't looked in a while, but when I did I usually found loads. Lands End, use to make a killer knit tie. I have a ton of vintage ones from them. Followed by Polo Ralph Lauren. Unless you have a sentimental attachment, I would let it go.
 

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