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emptym

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Hmm. I think most of the replies to Ed have have reinforced my view that spectre's criticism and example will be very helpful here.

The collars are cut low and loose intentionally to deemphasize loose neck skin. A higher and/or closer cut collar would not be a wise choice.

Very interesting. That's something that wasn't on my horizon, but I'm sure will be more in the coming years! Thanks for bringing my attention to it.

For the Tag Team Challenge!!

gema9a3a.jpg


a4ypesag.jpg


qame9uru.jpg

Love the scooter shots -- permanent front page material imo!

I
don't understand how spectre's two fits are seen as being lukewarm at best and in the same breath, people fawn over awful fits :confused: You don't need to see much of spectre's jacket (although thanks to SB for doing the full shots) to recognize the beautifully cut/fit of the shoulder line, the perfect armhole size (not up to his pits), the cut, size and gorge of the lapels, the shaping of the chest. Every thing is in perfect harmony to the man's physical attributes, if you saw him in person, you would not know who cut the suit or what regional style it is, you would notice a well dressed man in beautiful classic clothing. Its only boring in a world where loud suits with super slim sleeves and ridiculous high armholes (with the requisite rumpling around the arm scythe and shoulder line) are de riguer. His collar may be low but its probably more to do with the side view and stance (and I'm not a big fan of spread collars anyway).

The point is, you don't have to like his choice of cloths. You can very well dress in louder clothing or more patterned attite but if you don't recognize the beauty of the cut of his clothing, then you have more homework to do.

And I was one of the only guys defending Spoo when he would get ridiculed by some others when he started posting here, so I like to think that I have and "expanded" palate but that jacket, regardless of sexual orientation, should not be worn by any man. It is in fact hideous, neither the colorway nor the pattern do it any favors. Toss the jacket spoo, you are on the beach, you are a fit guy, just go with the pants and open shirt and loafers.

That is all :
)

I agree w/ all of this, except perhaps the criticism of Spoo's jacket. But that could be because I grew up in Las Vegas.

I certainly don't disagree with any of this. And I'd like to think I'm one of the more sedate frequent non-conservative business dress posters (though admittedly, it was my loud windowpane linen which started the kerfuffle, though the @spectre
thing, I think, came a day or two later).
But I also don't get what makes spectre's fits all that noteworthy (excepting the shoulder), so count me as lukewarm. I suppose I'm less concerned with fit than you and others. I want my own clothes to fit, but when I judge the clothing of others, it isn't something that I really focus on provided it's within some acceptable range. I think that's probably true for a lot of people. They might focus more on the items involved in the outfit--a reflection of the more consumerist bent SF has taken these last few years perhaps. It isn't a better set of priorities, nor is it really any worse. Just different.
It isn't that "loud" or "complex" is great. The only reason so many of my own fits have three patterns is that I don't dress formally enough to be comfortable with a white linen square. I'm a huge fan of what Pingson does. But the items in those two fits really just don't do it for me. The gray fit feels desaturated rather than monochrome. The navy, well, like I said, I don't prioritize fit provided it's decent (and that, especially after viewing SB's full version, is clearly more than decent). In terms of the items involved and how they're put together, it's certainly better than some that came after and before it. But it's also worse than others.

I think you've demonstrated well the divide. But I'd like to challenge you on the thought that neither is better. Let's push further in the direction of the second group you mention. If we do, we get into Hermes Man territory. I think one reason people love to make fun of him is that he holds up a mirror to a part of us we don't want to admit exists.

Well, he came here acting like a troll. Even if he threw down the best stuff this forum had ever seen (which we really can't judge from these pictures). I don't think it would get much love. Yeah, great fabrics and nicely cut shoulders, lapels et c. But just the last days we've seen more impressive stuff from some of the regular posters, e.g. the Shibumi guys, Incontro, Tchoy, NickP, Murl and Stitchy's joined Formosa fits et c. So why exactly should these small pics posted by this rude guy get more love?
Also, many people on this forum dress with some kind of budget, it's not possible for everyone to buy all bespoke in exclusive fabrics and advanced cuts. Sometimes we praise people who do really well on the budget they've got, I don't see that as fawning over awful fits.

One principle widespread on the forum is to buy fewer things but better things: Upgrade from those glued shoes to welted, from fused suits to canvased, etc. Members typically have little trouble making this move to a step or two above the general public. The peer pressure to do so is enormous here. But then we tend to stop. And we tend to start acquiring more and more of things at this mediocre level. As the peer pressure to move up to this level was enormous, so it is to accumulate many of these goods.

I wonder why we don't continue to pursue higher levels of excellence. Limited funds has something to do with of course, as you say. But Claghorn is right about the consumerism that pervades the forum. There has to be some balance of course, I'm not recommending owning just one pair of shoes, one suit, one shirt. But I do think we should always continue to advance in our pursuit of excellence, of quality over quantity.

Not to brag, but just to show that I try to practice as I preach, my first year out of grad school I bought nothing but one Chan suit. My second year out I bought a Chan sport coat and a pair of boots from DW Frommer. It took some discipline not to buy, for example, a Canali suit on sale for 1/4 the price of the Chan, or a few pairs of Aldens instead of the Frommer boots. But I'm glad I did what I did. Now that I have enough Chan things to get by, I'm contemplating another move up. If only Despos were in SF!

600
600

HSM MTM suit
Hugo shirt
Canali tie
Sozzi socks
GG shoes

I like these socks, just not w/ that outfit. I'd reserve them for more casual outfits. And the shoes look a bit to bright to go w/ that suit imo, but it could just be the photo.
 
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edmorel

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But I also don't get what makes spectre's fits all that noteworthy (excepting the shoulder), so count me as lukewarm. I suppose I'm less concerned with fit than you and others. I want my own clothes to fit, but when I judge the clothing of others, it isn't something that I really focus on provided it's within some acceptable range. I think that's probably true for a lot of people. They might focus more on the items involved in the outfit--a reflection of the more consumerist bent SF has taken these last few years perhaps. It isn't a better set of priorities, nor is it really any worse. Just different.


well I wasn't making a comment on spectre's comments nor am I esposing his look to be the only universally correct one but your comment on items is, to me, the biggest issue with people trying to dress well. An outfit should not be an item, it should be the sum of the items. Fits like spectre's are boring and unimaginative when you are looking for the "item". But in total, taking aside any preference issues (I don't like monotone outfits either), the ensemble is the perfect canvas for the man.

I am someone that has always worn FU items, sometimes it works, sometime it hasn't. Its taken me a long road to recognize the difference between wearing items and wearing an outfit. Some people here wear items. There is nothing wrong with that if you choose to go that route. But you should be able to recognize when something that is not necessarily your style, is done right. The road to 100 thumbs here is not a difficult one to navigate. Napoli style suit, some variation of a raw silk/grenadine tie, large spread shirt (with tall collar) and loud shoes (by loud shoes I mean something either aggresively styled or aggresively antiqued). If you can add in some pocket accesories, even better. I get the look, I know why its popular but the individual should add refinement and his own touch to that outift. It shouldn't be a collection of items that look great on their own, but not necessarily together. It should flatter your build, not point out the flaws (take a look at a lot of the shoulder lines and gorges of some of the stuff posted).

I guess where I am coming from is, I like to think that I have refined my style over the years that I have been on here by looking at others, taking criticism and worrying more about what cut/fit works for me. I'm not saying people here don't care about that, just that its given a secondary importance to items that "pop". And instead of criticism, you see raves. When Spoopoker started posting pics here, he took a lot crap, in some cases rightfully so. I doubt that he thought back then that he was dressing bad. He has evolved his style. Some people are now posting outfits similar to the old Spoo outfits, but there is no criticism which would lead to learning (for everyone), just a lot of "thats my style", "not everyone can afford bespoke", "rules are stupid" etc etc.

I always like to end these rants with; at the end of the day, its just clothes and its your money. Do what makes you happy.
 

edmorel

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emptym is the kind of guy that you just marvel at their level headedness, common sense and thought process. The man takes any situation and turns it into a positve. Makes the world (and the internet) a better place.
 

emptym

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edmorel is the kind of guy that you just marvel at their level headedness, common sense and thought process. The man takes any situation and turns it into a positve. Makes the world (and the internet) a better place.
 

Academic2

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No doubt people view this thread for different reasons, which is healthy, and a good measure of the thread's usefulness I think. Personally, while I like looking at pictures of quality clothing as much as the next guy, I'm most interested in seeing how people combine these into complete outfits. It's that skill, at least in part, that separates people who know how to dress well from those who simply have the money to buy the best quality.

Your mileage ...

Cheers,

Ac
 

in stitches

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A Google search yesterday revealed zero "Jewish stores" in my area.


:(

but not surprised.

Hmm. I think most of the replies to Ed have have reinforced my view that spectre's criticism and example will be very helpful here.


would i agree his criticism is helpful? yes. his tone? no.

but maybe we needed the shock.

Love the scooter shots -- permanent front page material imo!


im cool with that. :)


emptym is the kind of guy that you just marvel at their level headedness, common sense and thought process. The man takes any situation and turns it into a positve. Makes the world (and the internet) a better place.

edmorel is the kind of guy that you just marvel at their level headedness, common sense and thought process. The man takes any situation and turns it into a positve. Makes the world (and the internet) a better place.


serious reply - you are both 100% right.

less serious reply - eww gross, get a room guize!
 
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An Acute Style

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I tried to be more sedate today after yesterday's face melting attempt, but still ended up with three patterns. The tie and shirt and linen.









Edit: @sugarbutch Check out this jacket with its slim lapels and high button stance.
 
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in stitches

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well, he is pretty awesome, so it would naturally follow that his tumblr is awesome as well.
 

EFV

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I think both emptym and edmorel make great points. There is however a weird notion on this forum (and others as well), that if you've proven that you've got the right gear you're free to act like an asshole to everyone else (some revered bespoke clad SF posters come to mind). I have zero problem with criticism and think most of us would welcome more of the kind, presented in a decent manner.

But, as of lately I really try and follow this rule: If you wouldn't say something to someone's face, then don't post it on an internet forum. I don't think I'm particularly sensitive, it's just a question of civility.

Edit. Unrelated question: Is there any way of seeing when someone quotes your name (i.e. @EFV)?
 
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