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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 2783

post #41731 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post

@Caustic Man , is that KW polo?

 

Yup.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post  

 

@Caustic Man new KW suit?  Looks like a nice cut and nice fabric.  I'm adding a navy from him that should arrive next week.  

 

Nope. Suit Supply Sienna, with a heavily altered shoulder. Fabric was what drew me to it. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by smittycl View Post
 

Very nice looking suit. Pics look Indigo Blue, my fav. Cheers!

 

Thanks dude.

post #41732 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

Yup.

I envy you. I bought the polo a year ago, but couldn't fit in largest size they offer. I liked it so much I didn't return it but gave it to my dad. He loves it, it goes so well with suits and blazers. (I first offered it to my older son, but he despises anything that has collar smile.gif )
post #41733 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post


(I first offered it to my older son, but he despises anything that has collar smile.gif )

 

He'll learn. :)

 

Really nice polos, but yeah, very slim.

post #41734 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post


Is that an original Yue Minjun hanging on your wall?

 

Been wondering about that for a while

post #41735 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post

@jcmeyer
 I admire your forbearance, out-dressing 95% of StyleForum and hearing mostly about your height.  I think foo.gif  got the same treatment, but it was mostly joshing.

In any case, that's a great combination for that jacket.  

Thanks, Helden. Appreciate that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I do like that jacket on you, but it seems noticeably too long. I don't know about shortening jackets (I've had 38L's shortened 2cm and been happy with it), but going forward, does Eidos have an S in the model?

Did you happen to see the spoilered static robopose and does that change your view at all? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

For this particular jacket, the patch pockets would need to be moved up to shorten it even a tiny bit. And given the pattern that means recutting/reshaping the pockets at their bottoms to both keep them starting at the lower button and also maintain the pattern matching. Suppose it could be done but it's very unlikely I'll try. Not sure if there's an S in this specific jacket or model, but all the other S length Eidos' I've tried on (only at Bloomies) have been too short - or at least what I consider to be too short right now.

Anyway, I really don't want to use this thread for a long-winded pictorial on the trials and tribulations of my jacket length; maybe I'll use GNAT for that purpose at some point. Maybe not. I do hear you guys, really, but I also have a laundry list of reasons why I've ended up at this length. You may not agree with those reasons and I may not even be correct in the suit science assumptions I've made to get there, but it's not for lack of consideration.
post #41736 of 43837
Thread Starter 
I did see that, and it still looks too long, but maybe you have a relatively long torso. I don't think it looks as good on you as most of the jackets you wear, in terms of length.

However, as you said, you've already taken a number of factors into consideration, and I've never been one to argue with someone about what they should wear :-)
post #41737 of 43837

@jcmeyer, honestly I think the answer will be to bespeak a jacket (or suit) from a custom tailor. (Thanks to @Despos for his recent clarification on the correct use of those terms.)

 

Here's an old image which resurfaced recently on the Unfunded Liabilities thread. I'm putting it next to your robopose in order to illustrate a few observations:

 

   


Other guy's jacket ends at his thumbnails; yours goes slightly lower, but that's partly a function of the way the quarters are cut, so it's not a big difference.

 

The real difference in these two photos is in body proportions. Your torso is long with respect to your legs. (Note how tastefully I put that.) Your "apparent preferred" jacket length accentuates this, which could be construed as less than ideal.

 

On this Eidos jacket, the buttoning point is also lower than ideal for your frame; and there is little or no waist suppression.

 

It certainly is a beautiful jacket and I'm not suggesting that you abandon it or try to have it substantially altered. My point is simply that a RTW jacket which would look great on the guy at left, is going to look out of balance on you. And, seeing as most if not all RTW jackets (and to some extent this is probably also true of MTM) are cut for the "average" frame, you'll be hard pressed to avoid this result.

 

If OTOH you invest in the services of an experienced custom tailor, and come armed with photos like these two above, you'll be able to get a jacket cut for you with a slightly higher buttoning point and waist suppression point, slightly higher patch pockets, and slightly less length overall. It will necessarily be an aesthetic compromise, as shortening the jacket will of course bring issues like bum coverage into play. But if said tailor gets it right, your unusual torso/leg ratio will be visually normalised, which I feel is key to achieving your best fit.

 

Many of us struggle with these kinds of issues - I have my bow legs, barrel chest, weak shoulders and curved thoracic spine to contend with. I've now commissioned four bespoke suits, and I've become more insistent on having my tailor account for these bodily idiosyncrasies with each commission.

 

Do you have any bespoke projects planned for the future?

post #41738 of 43837

No one used to notice his height, you know. Then the Suit Supply happened.

post #41739 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
@jcmeyer
, honestly I think the answer will be to bespeak a jacket (or suit) from a custom tailor. (Thanks to @Despos
 for his recent clarification on the correct use of those terms.)

Here's an old image which resurfaced recently on the Unfunded Liabilities thread. I'm putting it next to your robopose in order to illustrate a few observations:


   



Other guy's jacket ends at his thumbnails; yours goes slightly lower, but that's partly a function of the way the quarters are cut, so it's not a big difference.

The real difference in these two photos is in body proportions. Your torso is long with respect to your legs. (Note how tastefully I put that.) Your "apparent preferred" jacket length accentuates this, which could be construed as less than ideal.

On this Eidos jacket, the buttoning point is also lower than ideal for your frame; and there is little or no waist suppression.

It certainly is a beautiful jacket and I'm not suggesting that you abandon it or try to have it substantially altered. My point is simply that a RTW jacket which would look great on the guy at left, is going to look out of balance on you. And, seeing as most if not all RTW jackets (and to some extent this is probably also true of MTM) are cut for the "average" frame, you'll be hard pressed to avoid this result.

If OTOH you invest in the services of an experienced custom tailor, and come armed with photos like these two above, you'll be able to get a jacket cut for you with a slightly higher buttoning point and waist suppression point, slightly higher patch pockets, and slightly less length overall. It will necessarily be an aesthetic compromise, as shortening the jacket will of course bring issues like bum coverage into play. But if said tailor gets it right, your unusual torso/leg ratio will be visually normalised, which I feel is key to achieving your best fit.

Many of us struggle with these kinds of issues - I have my bow legs, barrel chest, weak shoulders and curved thoracic spine to contend with. I've now commissioned four bespoke suits, and I've become more insistent on having my tailor account for these bodily idiosyncrasies with each commission.

Do you have any bespoke projects planned for the future?

You've summarized and clarified it better here than I clearly have, so from now on I'll just link people back to your post.

I'll be working with Steed on their next visit to SF. Their MTM is the more likely route given the cost, but we'll see what they say/recommend. Beyond trusting their advice, Mr. Six will be there at the same time to weigh in.
post #41740 of 43837

 

 

 

 

X-post from the Friday Challenge. Summer still very much has Geneva in its grip, with temperatures over 30 degrees. Tried to cool things down with a cotton knit sweater.

Details (Click to show)

SC: Orazio Luciano

Sweater: Morgano

PS, belt & pants: Berg & Berg

Shoes: Mano

Sunglasses: Dunhill

post #41741 of 43837

Miss a shirt underneath DP. Something looks odd when men wear formal jacket without collar under. 

The colours are nice though.

post #41742 of 43837
Ig recap from the past week.









post #41743 of 43837

Probably my last outing with my first post-SF jacket.  

 

 

 

 

post #41744 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy Al View Post
 

Miss a shirt underneath DP. Something looks odd when men wear formal jacket without collar under. 

The colours are nice though.

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90

 

I don't understand what you mean...

 

Seriously though, I agree. It would probably have worked a little better with a more casual jacket. But in general the only type of sweaters that can work with a jacket and without a shirt are turtlenecks.

post #41745 of 43837

Friday Challenge - Untie Your Tie

 

POLL IS UP!

 

Click here to vote!

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