HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)



Kent Wang said:

I'm Chinese. I'm already as tan as most white people will ever get.

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That may be true but it is eye catching nonetheless.

David Reeves said:

Had a go at a "Neapolitan" shoulder for this one. I quite like how this came out overall, its a bit like Sean Connery's early bond suits that were made in England to look Italian. By modern standards the coat is a bit too long, the trouser rise too high and the fronts are not cut away but square.

Cloth is about 6 0z 50% silk 50% linen. Coat and trousers are unlined......feels as comfortable as PJ's.

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Looks great. I would have asked for the stance to be lower on my own, but looks really great. Do y'all think having a cutaway front-quarters region makes the wearer look taller or shorter? or other?



Roy Al said:

Thanks for the thumbs yesterday. It's very inspiring. Not many comments, I also need to improve. So please feel free to share thoughts.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Suit - Manning & Manning Shirt, tie & socks - CT PS - Berg & Berg Shoes - AE

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I think a lighter blue or white shirt would go better with the suit, but overall this is quite nice.

David Reeves said:

Had a go at a "Neapolitan" shoulder for this one. I quite like how this came out overall, its a bit like Sean Connery's early bond suits that were made in England to look Italian. By modern standards the coat is a bit too long, the trouser rise too high and the fronts are not cut away but square. Cloth is about 6 0z 50% silk 50% linen. Coat and trousers are unlined......feels as comfortable as PJ's.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

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Impressivly clean trouser fit, especially with a cloth this lightweight.

David Reeves said:

Had a go at a "Neapolitan" shoulder for this one. I quite like how this came out overall, its a bit like Sean Connery's early bond suits that were made in England to look Italian. By modern standards the coat is a bit too long, the trouser rise too high [...]

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Well, I’m not sure the current examples of short jackets and low rises have been around long enough to count as a standard. In both cases I’m inclined to think the trend has peaked; I hope it has.

The jacket cut is lovely as far as I'm concerned.

Cheers,

Ac

Roy Al said:

Thanks for the thumbs yesterday. It's very inspiring.
Not many comments, I also need to improve. So please feel free to share thoughts.












Suit - Manning & Manning
Shirt, tie & socks - CT
PS - Berg & Berg
Shoes - AE

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I think the tie and square were a bit busy, but I'll defer to wiser men for suggestions. Maybe a white shirt and white square(plain or with pattern). Trou need to be a bit longer(or is it just your left leg)? Looks great otherwise. Blue on Navy has always looked good.

Where do you get your awesome forward pleats from?



cakv said:

Looks great. I would have asked for the stance to be lower on my own, but looks really great. Do y'all think having a cutaway front-quarters region makes the wearer look taller or shorter? or other?

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I think shorter, but it looks more masculine somehow.

You could probably go 3/4" lower on the button stance if you wanted to, the trouser waist is at my belly button but the button placement on the coat isn't.

I have to say though I am not a fan of the button stance at the natural waist for most men, Sean Connery could do it but you have to have that kind of physique. I am 6.1 and a size 40 these days but I find I look very drippy in suits with a low button stance. The higher waist and stance is also more flattering for most men as you cut in above the stomach giving the illusion of a more nipped in waist.

Interestingly the average "drop" waist on most men in the U.S is only 3" but most suits are allegedly cut for a 6" chest to waist ratio.

cakv said:

I think the tie and square were a bit busy, but I'll defer to wiser men for suggestions. Maybe a white shirt and white square(plain or with pattern). Trou need to be a bit longer(or is it just your left leg)? Looks great otherwise. Blue on Navy has always looked good.

Where do you get your awesome forward pleats from?

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Thank you for your and Sanders tips. White shirts do I almost only used in funerals. I've used the suit with shirts in many shades of blue, and at a time even red shirt. But my taste faded... luckily.

The suit was made for me back in -09, and it's my first attempt to enter the Savile Row-universe. The experience itself was taking place in the showroom of Holland & Sherry in Savile Row no 9/10, and the tailor, Bryan Manning http://www.manning-and-manning.com/ had made a sample suit made out of cheap canvas from my measures, that he almost destroyed tearing it apart on first fitting. Quite a happening.
I don't think I would ask for this kind of suit today, and my shape has surely changed over the last years, and the fit is not so good anymore, but I'll look into the trousers, they might be to short.
Two weeks ago I had a new experience on the Row, my first entrance to No 1, Gieves and Hawkes, the MTM-section.
The last years I've used a couple of off-Row-tailors, but now I wanted something from a well-established house. I'm sorry to say that I am a bit worried about the result, since the meeting and measuringprocess turned out more like entering a factory than personal tailoring. But, I'll give it a try and see if I'm right or wrong. And I still use my old suppliers of bespoke.




The loo at G&H was also an tasteful experience.



David Reeves said:

I think shorter, but it looks more masculine somehow.

You could probably go 3/4" lower on the button stance if you wanted to, the trouser waist is at my belly button but the button placement on the coat isn't.

I have to say though I am not a fan of the button stance at the natural waist for most men, Sean Connery could do it but you have to have that kind of physique. I am 6.1 and a size 40 these days but I find I look very drippy in suits with a low button stance. The higher waist and stance is also more flattering for most men as you cut in above the stomach giving the illusion of a more nipped in waist.

Interestingly the average "drop" waist on most men in the U.S is only 3" but most suits are allegedly cut for a 6" chest to waist ratio.

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I never really paid attention to button stance but I do agree that having it a slight bit higher than your navel is more flattering. I have a slight tire and I can still wear a more fitted suit because it buttons a bit higher without looking super tight

Roy Al said:

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Tailor in the back of the picture. 'SMH... another styforum guy..' .haha

The pics were made at the evening and unfortunatelly the light conditions were not the best.

venividivicibj said:

Tailor in the back of the picture. 'SMH... another styforum guy..' .haha

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Tailor? Nja, well, more of a salesperson. But yes, it was the one I met and whom measured me.
The experience was quite something else than what I'm used to, both the measuring and the communication between us were unfamiliar and a bit strange. So I'm a sort of ambivalent about this project.

David Reeves said:

I think shorter, but it looks more masculine somehow.

You could probably go 3/4" lower on the button stance if you wanted to, the trouser waist is at my belly button but the button placement on the coat isn't.

I have to say though I am not a fan of the button stance at the natural waist for most men, Sean Connery could do it but you have to have that kind of physique. I am 6.1 and a size 40 these days but I find I look very drippy in suits with a low button stance. The higher waist and stance is also more flattering for most men as you cut in above the stomach giving the illusion of a more nipped in waist.

Interestingly the average "drop" waist on most men in the U.S is only 3" but most suits are allegedly cut for a 6" chest to waist ratio.

Click to expand...

I love where your trou are; @EFV wears his trou awesomely too. I still prefer the button to be at natural waist rather than higher up, due to the fact that it will elongate the torso. I have very long legs so it helps balance out the look. I've done the exercise to determine where my navel is by using the side of my palm and it happens to be right above my navel. I'm 61",185lbs, and a 42L and am not GSP by any means. I wouldn't even consider myself lean. Higher trou are definitely more attractive, as you've stated. It hides that darned rubber tire.

I think the issue with a higher stance is that it often results in a flared skirt and doesn't look good. Makes the hips look bigger(accentuates them, really) because the widest part of the skirt is now at the hips and not at lower down(if the stance were to be lower). This has been my experience at least, when wearing R's and L's. It's rarely done well, like in your case. As long as the coat covers the bum/torso reasonably, and the top half above the buttoning point is taller than the bottom half, a coat will look good.

Not sure where the button falls in relation to his belly button, but I have ALWAYS aspired to find a suit that fits me this well:

It's so hard to find a coat with a skirt that hugs you closely enough to give you an actual V instead of an hourglass. You're the expert though, so you hold more wight than I do

@cakv love the DBZ avatar

Taken in haste....today's bow tie.

Wonderful as usual CP!