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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 2589

post #38821 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

I don't think it's necessarily fair to assign attributes gleaned from those in your bubble to the overarching whole.

For the most part, I agree with you, but the idea is that a given look (Spalla camicia, in this case) is entirely out of place is a tad overblown. I know and interact with a decent amount of Wall Street/hedge fund folks, and they're certainly a mixed bag from my experience. Some are among the lines of your thinking, some wear meh, relatively ill fitting suits, and some are cool with wearing a shirt, sweater, and khakis.

I KNOW (again, this is only my experience, nothing more) a Spalla camicia suit, regardless of the fabric, design, etc would be seen as overdressed in some of those circles. However, to your argument, they would also be seen as out of place in others.

No one is talking about being overdressed. You are missing the point completely.
post #38822 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

No one is talking about being overdressed. You are missing the point completely.

I really don't think I am. Going from memory (damn iPhone) you said anybody wearing a Neapolitan styled suit would look out of place on Wall Street or "any other business capital outside of Italy, as though it's an indisputable fact.

I'm simply saying, while it's not entirely inaccurate, it's far from as concrete a rule/idea than you made it out to be, given that I (and presumably many others) have had different experiences.

Admittedly, I may have swapped "overdressed" with "out of place," for the sake of clarity, but it's speaking almost exactly to at least one of your points.
post #38823 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post



You aren't answering the question.
Ok. If you agree with me then I'm not sure why you made the claim that I'm simply extrapolating from my own experience. Seems like our takeaways are the same from vastly different experiences.
I would say that this place has historically had, and continues to have, a relative dearth of people who can speak about personal bespoke savile row experiences. If you've been posting on your bespoke experiences at those houses then I've missed it but I will certainly do a search now.

 

OK, I thought it was a discussion and not an interrogation but here is a straight answer: yes, I am in "the meetings" from time to time. I'm not a businessman myself but meet business people on a regular basis, and in different places. When I do it tends to be on a very high level. In fact I did so as recently as last week. And in a room full of pretty influential people I did not see a lot of well dressed men. A few, but not many (some very well dressed women though). One of them, a very well known CEO that I happen to know a little bit, wore bespoke clothes from A&S, he always does, but everything was worn out, frayed, crumpled and stained. In my experience this is not unusual. So I'm not guessing, but I certainly am extrapolating. And have never claimed otherwise.

 

This is the only thread I post in in this forum so I have never discussed my experiences of Savile Row tailoring other than posting fits. I have bespoke things from Savile Row, but I also have things that are MTM, RTW and thrifted. From the parts of this forum that I follow I would agree that there seems to be a strong Italian bias, but Savile Row still comes up on a regular basis.

post #38824 of 43837
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CruzAzul View Post

When did "iGent" become anything other than a perjorative describing the #menswear equivalent of reality TV celebrities?

Answer: it didn't.

I am an iGent and happily so. A good chunk of why I dress the way I dress is for the internet. All of why I dress the way I dress is because it is fun to do so (though most of my colleagues do wear I jacket and tie when they teach). Though I admit it's silly when someone makes clothing on the internet serious business.

I think the term has been somewhat appropriated.
post #38825 of 43837
^ it's interesting to watch the development of these things over time and what happens to them. It's a good place to remind myself that, holy shit, I'm 40. The first time I saw the words "spalla camicia" anywhere ever it was about 15 years ago on...Ask Andy. At the time that was THE board to talk about tailored clothing. And the amazing thing was that for everybody in the US, other than maybe some really hardcore folks that you could count on two hands, no one else had heard of it either. And certainly no one wore it. People aspired to savile row and brioni. Kiton was out there as well, but it was an insider brand. So the Naples thing - the spalla camicia thing - that is relatively new here. And when it comes to wearing a great suit on Wall Street it's still pretty much nonexistent. Look - I'm happy to debate it with anyone here but i need real counter examples of what people are wearing everyday to go to work in that environment. And of course there are people who wear it. But my view from the front line is that the shirt shoulder is still unusual on Wall Street and in American finance. And British finance. I'm not seeing them. I would notice.
post #38826 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I think the term has been somewhat appropriated.

 

What I was thinking, but didn't say.

post #38827 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

a great suit on Wall Street

 

This makes me think of something that I was just starting to realize a couple years ago. Wall Street, and business in general, seems to play by very different rules than what we are accustomed to here. It seems to me that there are not very many business persons on SF for whatever reason, or at least that the regular advise givers are not in business. Maybe I'm wrong, we do have threads devoted to business wear and even abbreviations to denote conservative business dress, etc. How many of the people that follow these things are actually in business I don't know. I think we have mostly doctors, academics, lawyers, and some civil servants who post regularly and "make tastes" around here. Again, I could be wrong about this but it is a sense. In any case, most of the real world business people I know wouldn't be caught dead wearing a pocket square, nor would they wear an odd jacket to anything other than a costume party. This isn't because of any lack of interest in clothes, but rather because their culture expects other things, like Hermes ties. Anyway, it was 98 degrees here today and I spent too long outside in the sun at a local art fair, so I might be talking complete shit.

post #38828 of 43837


A very strident and somewhat strained series of posts guys. Too busy with Euro16 and Copa right now. Relax and watch some soccer! Dempsey scored! USA! USA! USA!
post #38829 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

In any case, most of the real world business people I know wouldn't be caught dead wearing a pocket square

Causticman - for the first time in all my years on styleforum I am going to use the thumbs function to celebrate a post. Congrats. You have truly impressed me. And to think that i'd written you off as kind of a dick with middling style. I want to apologize for my internal monologue heretofore. A thumbs up to you sir!
post #38830 of 43837
lol I guess I'll just have to live with that. smile.gif

I've never seen tempers so generally short. Maybe it's a full moon.
post #38831 of 43837
@loarbhms my style aesthetic is neither subtle nor understated, unless I decide it to be. That night reflected my mood.
post #38832 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by smittycl View Post



A very strident and somewhat strained series of posts guys. Too busy with Euro16 and Copa right now. Relax and watch some soccer! Dempsey scored! USA! USA! USA!

 

Wise words indeed. Sorry to see England lose points on overtime in a game they deserved to win. But for me Monday will be the key day as Sweden enters the tournament against Ireland.

 

And referring to the discussion on the sartorial knowledge of businessmen, a similar discussion on well dressed footballers would probably be very, very short. Who can forget this gem from Dele Alli...

post #38833 of 43837

Friday.  Similar to last Saturday with some more color.  

 

 

 

post #38834 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post
 

Friday.  Similar to last Saturday with some more color.  

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Great socks!

post #38835 of 43837
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

This makes me think of something that I was just starting to realize a couple years ago. Wall Street, and business in general, seems to play by very different rules than what we are accustomed to here. It seems to me that there are not very many business persons on SF for whatever reason, or at least that the regular advise givers are not in business. Maybe I'm wrong, we do have threads devoted to business wear and even abbreviations to denote conservative business dress, etc. How many of the people that follow these things are actually in business I don't know. I think we have mostly doctors, academics, lawyers, and some civil servants who post regularly and "make tastes" around here. Again, I could be wrong about this but it is a sense. In any case, most of the real world business people I know wouldn't be caught dead wearing a pocket square, nor would they wear an odd jacket to anything other than a costume party. This isn't because of any lack of interest in clothes, but rather because their culture expects other things, like Hermes ties. Anyway, it was 98 degrees here today and I spent too long outside in the sun at a local art fair, so I might be talking complete shit.

You are quite correct. I work in DC and most folks dress conservatively. Many folks wear suits simply because they have to. You can get away with pocket squares and the occasional odd jacket depending the schedule. Standard business suits dominate with only the quality changing as you move up. It's a uniform but you can seriously stand out if you make the effort to buy well made, well fitting clothes. Many take great pride in dressing well. Just not much sprezz.

I put on the Zegna, Oxxford and Canali for meetings with bigwigs and save the Eidos and sport coats for lighter days.
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