or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 2534

post #37996 of 43999

It's partly about finding the right brand for you. Maybe this simply isn't your best choice. On the other hand these are things that may be able to be reasonably altered. You never know until you try it on.

post #37997 of 43999
Quote:
Originally Posted by metranger8694 View Post

I asked the president of K.o.C. about the length and fit and he said he thought it was spot on and that is the style.

He's right in the sense that it is, for better or worse, the current style. Personally I think the overall length is not a problem. The sleeves, on the other hand...
post #37998 of 43999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 

It's partly about finding the right brand for you. Maybe this simply isn't your best choice. On the other hand these are things that may be able to be reasonably altered. You never know until you try it on.


It was an online purchase.  I asked the prez. and staff if I should go up to a 42 and I was told no. That was the intended style.

 

It is such a nice fit otherwise I'm wondering if anyone down here would even notice.

 

If others agree with you, maybe I could revisit things with K.o.C.

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

post #37999 of 43999
Quote:
Originally Posted by metranger8694 View Post
 

Then I'm stuck as a 42 would probably be too wide in the shoulders. Maybe too big in the chest too.

 

The sleeve buttons aren't functional as I'd have to shorten the sleeves.

My advice is go to a store with a wide range of size choices and find the right length and cut. Brooks Brothers is a great place to start. Their larger stores will have multiple fits (Madison, Fitzgerald, Regent, Milano) in regular and long sizes. Experiment a little and see what works. Then apply what you learn to other vendors.

 

Also, why buy something that requires alterations from the shoulder? That strikes me as a fairly major tailoring task that not many can do correctly. The shoulder is usually the most intricate and complicated part of a suit. 

post #38000 of 43999

Yes, the intended style with many places that pander to such things is to be shorter. There is, I think, an understanding about such things within the context of this forum and this thread in particular. This understanding is that with fashion there is a built in obsolescence. Taking a balanced approach to fit and proportion simply attempts to transcend that and to facilitate garments that will not look dated 10 years from now. There is nothing inherently wrong with following the trends, it's just that if you allow yourself to indulge in that you must accept that if you plan to keep your clothing for a while by 2025 you will look like the guy who dresses like he's stuck in the 2010s. This isn't to say that there aren't trends that happen here because there are. Dub monks may be an example. Even with the tendency toward wide lapels in this thread, I have attempted to maintain a more balanced approach, neither skinny nor too wide. I believe this is good advice because, as has been mentioned before, skinny lapels and short jackets are already beginning to look dated.

post #38001 of 43999
Quote:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 

Yes, the intended style with many places that pander to such things is to be shorter. There is, I think, an understanding about such things within the context of this forum and this thread in particular. This understanding is that with fashion there is a built in obsolescence. Taking a balanced approach to fit and proportion simply attempts to transcend that and to facilitate garments that will not look dated 10 years from now. There is nothing inherently wrong with following the trends, it's just that if you allow yourself to indulge in that you must accept that if you plan to keep your clothing for a while by 2025 you will look like the guy who dresses like he's stuck in the 2010s. This isn't to say that there aren't trends that happen here because there are. Dub monks may be an example. Even with the tendency toward wide lapels in this thread, I have attempted to maintain a more balanced approach, neither skinny nor too wide. I believe this is good advice because, as has been mentioned before, skinny lapels and short jackets are already beginning to look dated.

 

Well said. I doubt anyone will be comfortable wearing Thom Browne/Black Fleece suits in a few years. Nothing wrong with slightly slimmer lapels like RLBL or wider like maybe Formosa. Pushing the envelope too far means your stuff won't last.

post #38002 of 43999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 


I don't know what that means.

If you didn't post fit pics, I think it would be fair for me to assume you were an angry cardinal pecking out sly comments with your beak.  

post #38003 of 43999
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

This thread is getting weird again.

 

I tend to think that this thread is basically weird, with small segments of normality thrown in just to lure us in.

 

However, I will, against better judgment, try to start a serious discussion about length of jackets. I certainly subscribe to the notion that there are plenty of jackets that are objectively, by any normal standard, too short (or too long, though this is more seldom seen these days). But to what extent is there a leeway depending on the style of the garment? I know that there are members in this forum that make sure that all their jackets are the same length. I don't subscribe to that idea. If I wear, say, an unconstructed cotton jacket together with chinos, I can accept that that kind of style can work with a slightly shorter jacket than I would accept for instance in a more formal suit jacket.

 

So for me there is no correct length of a jacket, rather there is an acceptable span.

post #38004 of 43999
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiplomaticTies View Post
 

 

So for me there is no correct length of a jacket, rather there is an acceptable span.

 

I agree with this, however the acceptable range for me is generally within 1/2 inch so there is not a ton of leeway. I tend to think that the max you could stretch it for any given person would be 1 inch. Differences greater than this begin to look strange and frenetic. I will throw out this caveat; I don't think mentioning what is acceptable with jeans is constructive. Of course very casual looks will have different contexts in which to judge, however this is a CM discussion and I think it should be remembered that this is what we are dealing with.

post #38005 of 43999
I agree that there should be a general ballpark of length on jackets and for me the ideal is to cover the crotch seam in the front and the seat in the back. Now depending on body shapes that will change as rtw doesn't consider everyone's body shapes. Also having things made doesn't always guarantee the drape of the garment. My suit that I'm wearing today covers my rear but feels 1cm short in the front. It does irritate me but it's not blatantly short like some other jackets.

I know @Caustic Man can be very direct with his responses and he has an eye and a preference which I see and understand but that doesn't mean everyone can't have their own personal preferences. I think we sometimes take things into a realm of the "ideal" fit which in certain cases cannot be achieved due to external factors.

I do think @blekit jackets are too short. He likes it that way and asks for critiques. He will continue to get that critique. My jacket buttoning points are a bit higher and I've heard it a few times but that doesn't mean I'm gonna throw these pieces away and start over. I just will learn and make sure my new additions take into account others observations.

/rant
post #38006 of 43999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 

 

I agree with this, however the acceptable range for me is generally within 1/2 inch so there is not a ton of leeway. I tend to think that the max you could stretch it for any given person would be 1 inch. Differences greater than this begin to look strange and frenetic.


Having been painted with @Caustic Man's brush a few posts ago, I'm not sure if I should weigh in here...but I find myself agreeing with this.

 

What I disagreed with in @DiplomaticTies's post was the notion that there is an objective standard. There might be rules of thumb to help one decide on a jacket length, but that's as far as it goes, for me. There is, for any individual, a sweet spot which might exist for that person alone and I think an inch one way or the other is about as much variation as you can get away with before the aesthetics start to fail.

 

Also, @Caustic Man you were rather brutal to @blekit, earlier more so than usual, even for you. Verging into GBR territory.

post #38007 of 43999
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiplomaticTies View Post
 

 

I tend to think that this thread is basically weird, with small segments of normality thrown in just to lure us in.

 

However, I will, against better judgment, try to start a serious discussion about length of jackets. I certainly subscribe to the notion that there are plenty of jackets that are objectively, by any normal standard, too short (or too long, though this is more seldom seen these days). But to what extent is there a leeway depending on the style of the garment? I know that there are members in this forum that make sure that all their jackets are the same length. I don't subscribe to that idea. If I wear, say, an unconstructed cotton jacket together with chinos, I can accept that that kind of style can work with a slightly shorter jacket than I would accept for instance in a more formal suit jacket.

 

So for me there is no correct length of a jacket, rather there is an acceptable span.


Thank you Caustic Man and Smitty for your thoughts. Valuable lesson learned.

 

I love my unconstructed Eleventy linen blazer and will rock it hard in the right casual situation. The above post gives me comfort.

 

My Maison Margiela suit jacket is considerably longer and I did ensure that the navy seersucker suit jacket I just ordered from Epaulet will be the right(longer) length.

 

Cheers.

post #38008 of 43999

Anyway, in the Midlands today for an event (wearing a suit jacket I feel is slightly too short):

 

New Shibumi tie on its first outing:

 

 

 

 


Edited by Mr Knightley - 5/26/16 at 3:37am
post #38009 of 43999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

@mcobinad
, one of your best. Exceptionally good colour coordination.

What is that suit? Looks to have some cotton in it.

Shoes are nice too.

Boss, thanks for the compliment. I'm trying to be like you when I grow up wink.gif
post #38010 of 43999
Getting married in July so trying out my outfit. Critiques appreciated.





(And I'm not a low-level hoarder; in the midst of packing and moving.)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)