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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 2323

post #34831 of 44024
Quote:

I do think your associating with seasonality is interesting and I think I get where it is coming from, but I personally wouldn't quite go that far because I have seen unstructured winter suits that look really nice as well. So in this case I can see why a summer suit might be better with less structure in terms of coolness, but on the other hand it's common for winter stuff too.

 

I didn't mean that all winter tailoring should/must be structured, I'm well aware that there is plenty of examples that prove otherwise. It's just my personal feeling, that shoulder construction gives a more natural vibe when it comes alongside winter fabrics, colors, etc.

 

Having that said, I think that 8 out of 10 times, I'd go with jacket with little padding/structure regardless of the season it belongs to. But I guess it's a matter of personal taste.

 

Quote:
 I tend to think that in the U.S. casual suits are somewhat of a rarity, the general association being that you wear a suit for work not for play.

 

My experience is quite different, but I guess it's due to my job spec (I'm an IT consultant) where the dress code is non-existent and sometimes I get the feeling that I'm expected to wear black t-shirts and jeans all the time even after moving to an investment bank :satisfied: 

 

I've also noticed that a lot of the people who wear suits because they are forced by dress codes in their work environment, tend to don't care about the fit, quality and other important things when it comes to their tailoring. The best examples of classic menswear I've seen are from guys, who have great knowledge about it and treat it as their passion. And they are often suited-up also after hours - hence the idea of casual suit comes to me quite naturally.

post #34832 of 44024

You wear those getups as an IT dude? That would seem to me to be very unusual. Whatever floats you, though.

post #34833 of 44024

Yep, I've heard all fashion stereotypes about IT guys. I just refuse to comply and in my experience after initial shock and adjustement period people get used to it. It seems we're quite tolerant to representatives both ends of the menswear spectrum :satisfied:

post #34834 of 44024
post #34835 of 44024
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

I think this is certainly true when it comes to the perceptions of most Americans but I'm not sure that it is entirely justified. I should think that certain body types can look just as business appropriate in lightly structured suits as others would look in highly structured ones.
I'd agree, but not go so far as to negate completely the effect of structure, or lack thereof. It exists, more or less, but it is there.
post #34836 of 44024

Very good point.

post #34837 of 44024

Sleeves just a touch long on this Boglioli, but I put up with it. Loakes need a clean up. Coming straight off of Instagram, so sorry to those who don't like that.

 

post #34838 of 44024

The discussion about structure is interesting but I think it has to be contextualised. It is certainly true that the "Boglioli look" with unstructured and unpadded garments has been a trend now for quite a while, better part of a decade at least. But it is still a trend. Almost all the big Italian fashion houses would be prepared to make unstructured jackets (most of them do in their RTW), even the more conservative ones. But that is certainly not true for London or Paris. If you walk into Fallan & Harvey, Chester Barrie or Huntsman and I ask them to make an unstructured jacket they will argue against it (I know from experience).

 

I would argue that it is certainly not wrong or unstylish to have padded shoulders. It depends on the look and the tradition. Below I have a bespoke Fallan & Harvey sc. It is fully lined, fully canvased, rather heavy and rigid. I avoided the traditional Savile Row roped shoulders (I think it looks better on a suit) but it still has clearly padded and marked shoulders. I wear it as a classic Savile Row fit.

 

The other jacket is the polar opposite, a completely unstructured LBM 1911. I like them both, the LBM is probably more fashion forward, but I wear my Fallan & Harvey without shame.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Top three:

 

Fallan & Harvey

Zegna

Kiton

Berg & Berg

Bladen

Alden

 

Bottom two:

LBM 1911

Zegna

Boivin

Stenströms

Incotex

Allen Edmonds

post #34839 of 44024
X-post from the FC #menswear


post #34840 of 44024
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

X-post from the FC #menswear
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

:uhoh: Is that your face!?  This makes me extremely uncomfortable.  I feel like a super villain's identity has been exposed (the bearded prick unmasked).

Nice fit by the way.  

post #34841 of 44024
@Blekit way to go. Most of my IT friends share your aesthetic.
post #34842 of 44024
Quote:
Originally Posted by dukedishin View Post
 

Sleeves just a touch long on this Boglioli, but I put up with it. Loakes need a clean up. Coming straight off of Instagram, so sorry to those who don't like that.

 

 

Those sleeves are almost as long as Ted Cruz's. You definitely need an urgent alteration of your jacket. 

 

post #34843 of 44024
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post
 

 

Those sleeves are almost as long as Ted Cruz's. You definitely need an urgent alteration of your jacket. 

 

I think that's a pretty significant exaggeration but point taken nonetheless. :fonz:

post #34844 of 44024

Cardigan/vest probation is over.  Back at it.  Gray pants would have been better right?  NOT!  

 

 

 

 

post #34845 of 44024
^AAS I have always loved red, camel, and blue together. Excellent combination.
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