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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 2318

post #34756 of 44075

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'bout to chow on some pork ribs and chartreuse slushies

 

Kent Wang unstructured navy corduroy jacket, no shoulder padding

Kent Wang blue stripe white linen/cotton shirt
Kent Wang tortoiseshell keyhole sunglasses (50 mm)

Kent Wang navy shepherd’s check six-fold tie

Kent Wang Star chart Cellarius pocket square

Kent Wang brushed silver tie clip

Kent Wang lapis lazuli cuff links

Kent Wang Bauhaus v4 watch

Kent Wang cordovan watch strap

Kent Wang mid grey flannel trousers

Marcoliani navy cashmere socks

Kent Wang handgrade penny loafer

 

To my eye, the biggest recurring problem I see on fits here are shoulders that are too wide, too padded, or both. I see this even on posters that are very well dressed. Most of my jackets have no shoulder padding—though here's one with my 'standard' shoulder padding—so I'm willing to admit that I may be biased. 

 

Below, I shall give my comments on the shoulders of a few recent posts. Some posts I ignored because it was difficult to see the shoulders clearly.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibor View Post

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Padded, but great.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by chocsosa View Post
 

 

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Padded, but great.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Walter View Post
 

 

 

 

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Too much padding. The shoulder line isn't straight, but instead curves upward.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by upr_crust View Post

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Too much padding.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by upr_crust View Post

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Same person, but much more balanced shoulders!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheoProf View Post
 

 

 

 

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Too much padding, too wide.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheoProf View Post

 

 

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Same person, but much better! Shoulder slope is nice and angled down. Still looks a little wide to me, but maybe you just have wide shoulders.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonCologne View Post
 

 

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You have naturally large and square (as opposed to sloping) shoulders. But I think you would look better with no shoulder padding or just a minimal amount.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

 

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Too much padding, especially for a casual sportcoat.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post
 

 

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Nice! Is this unpadded?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by rajesh06 View Post


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Too much padding

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post
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Too much padding, too wide.

post #34757 of 44075

For a second I thought the pic above was the standard padded shoulder!

post #34758 of 44075

@Kent Wang I think unpadded or minimally padded shoulders is certainly an option, and it is even, perhaps, StyFo orthodoxy. But it's just an option, a point on a spectrum. To my eye, your jacket, above, suffers from a complete lack of structure. It's the other end of the spectrum. All I gathered from your post was that you don't like padded shoulders.

post #34759 of 44075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post
 

@Kent Wang I think unpadded or minimally padded shoulders is certainly an option, and it is even, perhaps, StyFo orthodoxy. But it's just an option, a point on a spectrum. To my eye, your jacket, above, suffers from a complete lack of structure. It's the other end of the spectrum. All I gathered from your post was that you don't like padded shoulders.

Ah, that's exactly what I was trying to find out, where my viewpoint fell on that spectrum.

post #34760 of 44075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent Wang View Post
Ah, that's exactly what I was trying to find out, where my viewpoint fell on that spectrum.

 

:) Happy to help out!

post #34761 of 44075

Tweed and flannel for the last day of winter...

 

The shirt doesn't look it, but is actually ivory.

 

 

 

Brown jacket with green trousers! (Click to show)

 

 

Jacket: Bespoke Steed

Shirt: Proper Cloth

Tie: Drake's

Square: Put This On

Trousers: Bespoke Hemrajani

Shoes: Edward Green

post #34762 of 44075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent Wang View Post
 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

To my eye, the biggest recurring problem I see on fits here are shoulders that are too wide, too padded, or both. I see this even on posters that are very well dressed. Most of my jackets have no shoulder padding—though here's one with my 'standard' shoulder paddingso I'm willing to admit that I may be biased. 

 

[...]
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Too much padding, especially for a casual sportcoat.

 

 

In what sense is this a "casual sportcoat"?  No patch pockets, flaps on the hip pockets, suppressed waist, etc.

 

Could you give an example of a non-casual sportcoat?

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #34763 of 44075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post
 

 

What's your thinking on this? 

 

The green is far too middling a shade to give any semblance of contrast between jacket and trousers, and that is a jacket that sorely needs it. The jacket itself appears to be a medium brown which is a color that needs something contrasting in order to avoid looking muddled when paired with greens (brown and green is generally not a good low contrast combination IMO and often winds up looking like pea soup). The tie might have mitigated some of this but all you notice when you look at it is how odd it looks with those wide lapels. The overall affect is drab and uninteresting. TheoProf can do better. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent Wang View Post
 

 

Too much padding, too wide.

 

Agree in the case of TheoProf. The strong extended shoulders look disproportionate with his long neck and seemingly slim build.

post #34764 of 44075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent Wang View Post
 

 


 

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'bout to chow on some pork ribs and chartreuse slushies

 

 

Nice! Is this unpadded?

 

 

 

Yeah.  I wish it was lightly padded.  It gets kind of wonky when my hands are not at my side.  

post #34765 of 44075

@Andy57 what fabric did you use for the pants?

post #34766 of 44075
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

@sebastian mcfox
 guessing that's the YH Puppytooth cashmere?
Yes it is
post #34767 of 44075
@Kent Wang, I think you would benefit from a bit extended and padded shoulders, maybe it could fix lower left shoulder. Don't you think?
post #34768 of 44075

Finishing the week in blue, brown and grey...

 

 

 

 

 

New Zegna tie.

post #34769 of 44075

Outstanding, Sycsyc.  

post #34770 of 44075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

 

In what sense is this a "casual sportcoat"?  No patch pockets, flaps on the hip pockets, suppressed waist, etc.

 

Could you give an example of a non-casual sportcoat?

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

I saw the check and immediately thought sportcoat. The flap pockets do seem to contradict that. That fabric would be a pretty bold for a suit, not that I'm averse to that myself.

 

There are degrees of casualness with a sportcoat: a navy blazer would be more suited to stronger shoulders than a corduroy like I'm wearing above. Though you're right that the flap pockets make this sportcoat not very casual at all.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post

@Kent Wang, I think you would benefit from a bit extended and padded shoulders, maybe it could fix lower left shoulder. Don't you think?

 

You tell me. I have a moderate amount of padding in this stroller. I think my dropped left shoulder is equally apparent with padding, and without. What do you think?

 

If you mean that I should get more padding in the left shoulder than the right, I'm not sure, I think that would be very tricky to make and have it look right.

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