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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 2183

post #32731 of 46959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 

@Dennis Walter, much better on the shoes.


Somehow I don't think Dennis cares whether you like his shoes.*

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Of course, I could be wrong. He might care. Deeply.

post #32732 of 46959

Must I explain that that's partly why I posted it? :smarmy: 

 

 

 

And yes, yes he does.

post #32733 of 46959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post


That's why I picked the square. To anchor, or at least refer to, the lavender of the shirt.

What colour shirt would you have preferred? 

I would have gone for a plain white shirt. Linen, soft collar, not formal at least.
post #32734 of 46959
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonCologne View Post
 

"Trägste braun, kriegste Fraun - Teil 2"

 

 

Full shot, portrait and shoes (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

Amazing suit, Don, and great outfit.

 

As usual, I find your preference for little or no taper on your pants to be perplexing. These would look so much better with a taper to an ankle opening at least 3cm narrower than now. Also slightly shorter, and with maybe a 4cm cuff to add a little weight and allow the pants to sit better on your shoes.

 

But I know you've resisted such suggestions in the past, so perhaps I'm wasting my words...

 

p.s. left sleeve seems too short.

 

I think that there is a place for a more old fashioned pants leg with less tapering in certain contexts and with certain styles, but in this case I do agree with Coxsackie. The suit is lovely and that kind of classic 3-piece should, IMHO, not be cut too slim. But the pants below the knee are simply too wide. It makes you look shorter and the whole fit becomes more boxy. It's a shame because the suit is great and it is an easy thing for even a mediocre tailor to taper the legs. Just a little bit to get a sense of elongation.

post #32735 of 46959

hi gents

post #32736 of 46959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Somehow I don't think Dennis cares whether you like his shoes.*

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Of course, I could be wrong. He might care. Deeply.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Must I explain that that's partly why I posted it? :smarmy: 

 

 

 

And yes, yes he does.

 

 

Au contraire, @Coxsackie and yes i do care about what @Caustic Man or other respected posters think. I´d at least consider to think about what was said. Sometimes there´s truth in these words, so i´d be a fool if i didn´t give a damn at all. However, if i don´t agree....ya know.

post #32737 of 46959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Walter View Post
 

However, if i don´t agree....ya know.

 

It is completely within your rights to be wrong. :smarmy:

post #32738 of 46959

@Pliny , sweet jacket and tie. Not so convinced by the shirt.

post #32739 of 46959
Morning Gents



post #32740 of 46959

Second try. Trying to keep things low key.


Edited by dwpenny - 2/10/16 at 7:33am
post #32741 of 46959
Good morning everyone, jacket/shirt sleeve ratio is distorted by the angle, sorry about that. Crusty, this jacket may be familiar to you nod[1].gif
BB
BB
Polo
Polo




Fit Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

post #32742 of 46959
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

There was an interview done by SF this past Fall with G. Bruce Boyer...and I found it really interesting when he spoke on the topic of rules in classic menswear and developing your own style. 

The article can be found here: http://www.styleforum.net/a/an-interview-with-g-bruce-boyer

 

For me...this issue of trousers is very much one of learning the rules of how a trouser should fit and look. From there...you can develop your own style (a little higher...a little lower...one pleat two pleats no pleat so on and so forth). But if you don't learn this rule you're bound to end up looking like some over-fashioned punk hipster or a cane-wagging gummy octogenarian...when your intention all the while was to keep it classic. 

 

We see many expertly crafted bespoke jackets on this forum...the vast majority of the pics in this thread are of the "top block" and you just get a glimpse of the color and material of the trouser that compliments the outfit. The role that the trouser plays in one's outfit is under-appreciated...and yet with much chagrin many men have a difficult time finding trousers that fit very well. Perhaps they are too low or too high or too narrow of a leg or too wide...or they keep falling down...or they don't drape well...or all of these combined or something else all together.

 

My experience with trousers and the experience I have heard from many others is that trousers need to sit at the natural waistline. Where is this? It's a little different on every person since everyone's body is different. But, a general location might be on or just above or below your naval. From this position they conform with your front and rear and provide balance to your outfit in relation to your height. They also tend to work with just about any jacket style provided the jacket is tailored within an acceptable range of length (i.e., a jacket that is not overly short or long). Trousers that sit around your natural waistline also, in my experience, tend to be much more comfortable especially compared to trousers that have a very low-rise. These trousers also stay up better (which is further enhanced by braces) and they keep your shirt tucked in more easily. There are many benefits. 

 

For those with a more rounded body type...a low rise trouser looks sloppy and can over-emphasize their roundness. A very high rise can also work negatively and do the same thing. A natural waistline trouser can prove very flattering by hiding some of the roundness and importantly causes a viewer to not focus on this aspect of one's body. Unfortunately, for those that are very round there is little that they can do. 

 

For those that are very thin...they tend to have  more leeway as to what is and isn't acceptable with a trouser rise. But they still have to be wary about how the trousers confirm to their bodies and ensuring that they are balanced in relation to their height and jacket style. 

 

For those that are in the middle...all of this applies. 

 

Once you have found this "sweet spot" it is easy to determine the stylistic details...and just about anything will look good. Whether you want to wear them belted or with braces or side-adjusters...with or without pleats...cuffed or uncuffed (always cuffed!)...etc.

 

@PCK1 I agree with all of the thoughts above, and as a man with a large waist and even larger natural waist, finding pants that fit can only be had via bespoke/MTM. 

 

I would love to wear single pleat trousers at my natural waist with braces everyday, but the sad truth for me is they are just not convenient. If I could wear pants at my natural waist without braces I would, but am always taking off my jacket and I don't like the idea of have my braces on without the coat. 

 

Whenever I have a suit made which is rare for me, I do get an additional pair of trousers made up in a single pleat high rise to wear with braces and I know they look better. But I also get a lower rise pair as well. I think as long as the cut is flattering for your body type they can still look good, not perfect, but good, even with the flaws (ie upside down "V" visible above the belt). 

 

I know personally I look better in a high rise, I think everyone does, but for some including myself it is just not a good option for daily wear. I may change my approach later on, but for now I am okay with the wrong type of trouser. 

 

Best,

 

DL

post #32743 of 46959

For today :

 

 

 

 

post #32744 of 46959

@Pliny love that fabric. Porter & Harding Glenroyal? If so, how does it wear? It's about 15oz or so if I recall...

 

@Mr. Six what are the deets on those shoes? Looking excellent.

post #32745 of 46959
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

hi gents


styling and profiling....how do you like the fabric?
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