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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 2181

post #32701 of 43861
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

smile.gif that was a perfect op. Btw it was Manton not whnay

Exactly - Manton in whnay's good taste thread.

That thread was amazing.
post #32702 of 43861
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post

Agreed.


Sad but true.

As you know as well as I, when the majority of men choose a tie to go with a jacket or suit they’ve been led to believe that the two should match, not contrast.   Since blue is the most popular color for jackets and suits, well,  …

Cheers,

Ac

I agree that their tie should match jacket principle is bad--it overgeneralizes from a good pairing (as below) into an absurdly exclusive rule.

Yet it is a better principle than shirt matching jacket is da bomb, which is a rather popular principle around here these days. I see a lot of this on SF these days:


baldy[1].gif
Oh for the days of whnay and Manton indeed.

Clarinet, that is a nice use of a blue shirt.
post #32703 of 43861
Back in a tie today. Luckily it's a good one.





post #32704 of 43861
Quote:
Originally Posted by clarinetplayer View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





Southwick, J Press, and a SuSu PS

Great appreciation to @Mr. Six

 

Lookin' good!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

smile.gif that was a perfect op. Btw it was Manton not whnay

 

"chavs, fops, bottom feeders, and n00bs" cracks me up every time.

post #32705 of 43861
My quarterly attempt at all patterned everything. The tie is vintage new to me Brooks Brothers. I have a similar tie in navy coming this week. I'm really digging neat ties lately. Striped shirt, neat tie, cable knit vest, paisley pocket square, glen plaid jacket, glen plaid pants, tartan socks.




Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

post #32706 of 43861
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldofdreams View Post
 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

Unseasonably warm weather here in Los Angeles.  Didn't mean for square to be sticking up so high.

 

 

You seem to have coordinated your colors well.

 

However, your tie protruding from the the sides of your collar is unsightly. There also seems to be some issue with the knot of your tie and the way it drapes...or rather balloons out from your chest. 

 

You also have an issue with your trousers. It is unsightly to see your shirt tucked into your trousers below the buttoning point of your jacket. You need a trouser with a higher waist. These trousers hang too low...they hang from your hips. A trouser that rises to your natural waistline would rectify this issue. 

 

Edit: I also am not a fan of the pocket square. It doesn't really do anything beneficial for the aggregate of your outfit. It just doesn't go. 

post #32707 of 43861
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post

You seem to have coordinated your colors well.

However, your tie protruding from the the sides of your collar is unsightly. There also seems to be some issue with the knot of your tie and the way it drapes...or rather balloons out from your chest. 

You also have an issue with your trousers. It is unsightly to see your shirt tucked into your trousers below the buttoning point of your jacket. You need a trouser with a higher waist. These trousers hang too low...they hang from your hips. A trouser that rises to your natural waistline would rectify this issue. 

Edit: I also am not a fan of the pocket square. It doesn't really do anything beneficial for the aggregate of your outfit. It just doesn't go. 

Most of my trousers are lower rise. I experimented with higher rise trousers for a while, from being influenced by sf. I kept getting comments that they made me look like an old man. Some may not mind that; I'd prefer to not hear it. Anyway, I'll switch to high rise trousers when I hit 40 or get a gut, whichever comes first.
post #32708 of 43861
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldofdreams View Post


Most of my trousers are lower rise. I experimented with higher rise trousers for a while, from being influenced by sf. I kept getting comments that they made me look like an old man. Some may not mind that; I'd prefer to not hear it. Anyway, I'll switch to high rise trousers when I hit 40 or get a gut, whichever comes first.

 

Then you shouldn't be surprised that you'll continue to receive negative comments about the poor fit of your trousers in relation to your shirt and jacket. It's simply unattractive to see your shirt below your jacket's buttoning point. 

 

You clearly appreciate clothing and spend considerably on clothes. Yet you always seem to have two or three minor flaws that ruin what could otherwise be recognized as an outstanding outfit.

 

These are easy fixes and solid advice that will help you improve. 

post #32709 of 43861
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post

Then you shouldn't be surprised that you'll continue to receive negative comments about the poor fit of your trousers in relation to your shirt and jacket. It's simply unattractive to see your shirt below your jacket's buttoning point. 

You clearly appreciate clothing and spend considerably on clothes. Yet you always seem to have two or three minor flaws that ruin what could otherwise be recognized as an outstanding outfit.

These are easy fixes and solid advice that will help you improve. 

His YouTube videos seem to suffer the same. I like his pants more as a higher rise. I wear normal rise pants and no one has every said I look like a 40 year old man.
post #32710 of 43861
Wanted to show some love for this new old Panta linen I snagged. Love it.



On a side, as a fellow young-ish Angeleno, I love high rise pents, old man style or no. Far more comforts me in my mind.
post #32711 of 43861
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post
 

 

Then you shouldn't be surprised that you'll continue to receive negative comments about the poor fit of your trousers in relation to your shirt and jacket. It's simply unattractive to see your shirt below your jacket's buttoning point. 

 

You clearly appreciate clothing and spend considerably on clothes. Yet you always seem to have two or three minor flaws that ruin what could otherwise be recognized as an outstanding outfit.

 

These are easy fixes and solid advice that will help you improve. 


I just looked through a bunch of pictures of myself and those are definitely the lowest rise trousers I have.  Normally I guess they are more of a mid rise.  I see what you mean about seeing my shirt.  I don't think that's an issue with most other pants.   Here is what is most common for me.

 

 

EDIT: I'll add it's probably good advice.  I had not really noticed how low those pants look in a picture.  I took your comment as that I should wear high rise pants, which is not what you were saying.

post #32712 of 43861
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seamless View Post


His YouTube videos seem to suffer the same. I like his pants more as a higher rise. I wear normal rise pants and no one has every said I look like a 40 year old man.


I was wearing high rise pants when i received that comment.   I've never heard that with a mid rise.

post #32713 of 43861
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldofdreams View Post


I was wearing high rise pants when i received that comment.   I've never heard that with a mid rise.

All my suits are higher then normal. TF rtw and house mtm in a similar cut.
post #32714 of 43861

There was an interview done by SF this past Fall with G. Bruce Boyer...and I found it really interesting when he spoke on the topic of rules in classic menswear and developing your own style. 

The article can be found here: http://www.styleforum.net/a/an-interview-with-g-bruce-boyer

 

For me...this issue of trousers is very much one of learning the rules of how a trouser should fit and look. From there...you can develop your own style (a little higher...a little lower...one pleat two pleats no pleat so on and so forth). But if you don't learn this rule you're bound to end up looking like some over-fashioned punk hipster or a cane-wagging gummy octogenarian...when your intention all the while was to keep it classic. 

 

We see many expertly crafted bespoke jackets on this forum...the vast majority of the pics in this thread are of the "top block" and you just get a glimpse of the color and material of the trouser that compliments the outfit. The role that the trouser plays in one's outfit is under-appreciated...and yet with much chagrin many men have a difficult time finding trousers that fit very well. Perhaps they are too low or too high or too narrow of a leg or too wide...or they keep falling down...or they don't drape well...or all of these combined or something else all together.

 

My experience with trousers and the experience I have heard from many others is that trousers need to sit at the natural waistline. Where is this? It's a little different on every person since everyone's body is different. But, a general location might be on or just above or below your naval. From this position they conform with your front and rear and provide balance to your outfit in relation to your height. They also tend to work with just about any jacket style provided the jacket is tailored within an acceptable range of length (i.e., a jacket that is not overly short or long). Trousers that sit around your natural waistline also, in my experience, tend to be much more comfortable especially compared to trousers that have a very low-rise. These trousers also stay up better (which is further enhanced by braces) and they keep your shirt tucked in more easily. There are many benefits. 

 

For those with a more rounded body type...a low rise trouser looks sloppy and can over-emphasize their roundness. A very high rise can also work negatively and do the same thing. A natural waistline trouser can prove very flattering by hiding some of the roundness and importantly causes a viewer to not focus on this aspect of one's body. Unfortunately, for those that are very round there is little that they can do. 

 

For those that are very thin...they tend to have  more leeway as to what is and isn't acceptable with a trouser rise. But they still have to be wary about how the trousers confirm to their bodies and ensuring that they are balanced in relation to their height and jacket style. 

 

For those that are in the middle...all of this applies. 

 

Once you have found this "sweet spot" it is easy to determine the stylistic details...and just about anything will look good. Whether you want to wear them belted or with braces or side-adjusters...with or without pleats...cuffed or uncuffed (always cuffed!)...etc.

post #32715 of 43861




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