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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 2157

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Crusty and Sander playing hard-ball with the pin stripes and looking good doing it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post

SVB I think thats probably one of your shortest jackets and I think with a lighter color trouser it wont give the impression of how short it is.

 

Thanks, yeah, this makes sense. The jacket is on the shorter side but it isn't nearly as pronounced with lighter trousers.

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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Lazy selfies:

 

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I would never call myself an expert, but I do have some experience from a number of the prime Italian and English tailors and brands. But apart from Charvet (and a few vintage items from Arnys and Lanvin), I have hardly any experience from the great Parisian houses such as Cifonelli and Camps de Luca (to some extent also Smalto). So I thought I would have a go and I have acquired a few items.

I have consulted with a few people for advice. This suit came to me via Dirnelli, a true connoisseur of all things Parisian. It was made by Feruch, a small tailor in Paris who is no longer in business. An internet search suggests that Feruch was never a big name, but had a very loyal customer base that appreciated the high quality of his garments.

This suit is made in a fabric from W. Bill in their Lamlana series (mix of lambswool and angora). The angora gives the fabric a great texture and very soft touch. The handiwork is outstanding. I had some alterations made and my tailor, usually not easily impressed, was astonished that basically every single stitch is handmade, and that there are plenty of details, some of them not even visible, that have no real practical function but is there rather as a sign of skill and craftmanship. 

The suit has the marked shoulders, probably roped, that is typical for Parisian tailoring. Parts of the cut are slightly old fashioned (like the high waist and the pleats) but I like it and it gives the suit its unique character. My only problem is that it was clearly made for someone much shorter than I am and there might not be enough fabric to get the length of the pants perfectly right.

Suit: Feruch

Shirt & tie: Drake's

PS: Al Bazar

Braces: Albert Thurston

Shoes: Crockett & Jones

Watch: Swatch

 

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I dig those suspenders!

 

@DiplomaticTies how do you think that fabric holds up as a suit, particularly the pants? 


Edited by ericgereghty - 2/2/16 at 4:32pm
post #32347 of 44075
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiplomaticTies View Post

 

My only problem is that it was clearly made for someone much shorter than I am and there might not be enough fabric to get the length of the pants perfectly right

 

That's the entirety of it, right there. In my opinion, the trousers are too short. Actually, the jacket is also too short, at least that what I infer from the photographs. Did you lengthen the sleeves, also? I ask because the buttons seem rather high on the sleeves, although I accept the possibility of confirmation bias creeping in. But I am sorry to say that the suit does look to be too short overall.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiplomaticTies View Post




I mean this with all due respect, but this cut and style of suit does nothing for your figure. In my opinion, the trousers need inches of ease from the thigh down and some added length, and the jacket button stance and overall torso length should be dropped an inch to an inch and a half. The fabric seems quite lovely, though.
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Good looking combo, Garry, though I would prefer a little less break on the trou. Pents dont seem to be draping as nice as they could.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post

Thanks, yeah, this makes sense. The jacket is on the shorter side but it isn't nearly as pronounced with lighter trousers.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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Agree it looks great with light color trousers. It's a hell of a cloth on that jacket. Absolutely amazing
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Tuesday night: Churchill dots







Tuesday, during the day: holding music scholarship auditions in a school life skills room
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First shot at the green jacket challenge.  I think the pants don't go as well with the jacket as I hoped.  

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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I like the rich textures and patterns from knitwear and its drapey nature that creates a more laid back aesthetic. However, knitting is less commonly used when constructing coats as it tends to stretch and loose its form over time. I'm glad to have found this knitted virgin wool double-breasted coat by the Shetland-turned-Italian-brand McRitchie. The care instruction reads that it's recommended to be worn one day at a time and lied down after wearing each time. I've worn it a few times and find it's light weight, warm and holding its shape pretty well. The quality of Italian knitwear is usually topnotch. The orange cable knitted lambswool vest is from a label called Private Lives and I'm pleased with its quality.

 

Coat: McRitchie

Vest: Private Lives

Shirt: Glanshirt

 

Follow me on Instagram

 

post #32354 of 44075
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post
 

First shot at the green jacket challenge.  I think the pants don't go as well with the jacket as I hoped.  

 

Hi, I like how they fit you but as you mentioned about the matching, I find the brushed texture from the blazer, pants and cardigan too close so that it looks heavy and perhaps mismatched suits. I did see the herringbone pattern on the pants but I assume a lighter weight pants with a smoother finish will make the look fresher. 

 

Usually I like earthy green and warmer yellow but this particular yellow from the pants is rather aged.

 

Finally, I find the top part heavy caused by the color of cardigan and tie, as well as a bit busy with colors. I mostly stay away from pocket square, especially when the outfit is heavily textured. If I wear a solid suit I might use a solid pocket square to add a hint of color. Multicolored pocket squares might be too much for day time and more suitable for nightlife.

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@sugarbutch , that beard is starting to look positively Rushdie-esque.

 

Be careful now. I believe the fatwa on Rushdie has still not been rescinded.

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