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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 2139

post #32071 of 43874
I don't equate conservative with formal. But I get your point. Looks good overall.
post #32072 of 43874
Today, a vintage Gieves & Hawkes suit I picked up a few years ago of eBay (for a steal) and got tailored. Let me know what you think!




Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Details:
Suit: G&H
Tie: Chris & Chris
Shirt: Paul Smith
Watch: Tag Heuer Carrera
Shoes: Grenson


Cheers,

Nick
post #32073 of 43874

Like the suit. REALLLLLLLYYYYYY dislike the tie.

 

@Andy57 if the hue of the shirt is accurately depicted on my screen, that shade of pink is as good as it gets in my view...

post #32074 of 43874

 

Hi Nelton,

 

It appears long to my eye, and maybe a touch roomy?  I have read more than once that bd's should be cut shorter than single breasted jackets, and both of mine do in fact measure 1" shorter than my sb jackets. 

 

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nelton View Post

Today, a vintage Gieves & Hawkes suit I picked up a few years ago of eBay (for a steal) and got tailored. Let me know what you think! Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Details:
Suit: G&H
Tie: Chris & Chris
Shirt: Paul Smith
Watch: Tag Heuer Carrera
Shoes: Grenson


Cheers,

Nick
post #32075 of 43874


Ring
Epaulet
Sozzi on maiden
Monsieur fox
post #32076 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by colco View Post

It appears long to my eye, and maybe a touch roomy? I have read more than once that bd's should be cut shorter than single breasted jackets, and both of mine do in fact measure 1" shorter than my sb jackets.

It's certainly got a bit of room, I feel that perhaps the gorge (is that the right term?) of the lapels is a little low down and likewise the buttoning point is quite low so it throws off the proportion of the jacket. What would shortening do? Improve the silhouette? The trousers are very roomy now so they definitely need to be taken in an inch or two at the waist. I always assumed that DB's were meant to be longer than SB's.
post #32077 of 43874

@Nelton the suit looks spot on! Length and fit looks great to me - keep it as it is. Shirt looks great on you too - buy more Paul Smith ones!

 

The tie is fun but doesn't work with the stark seriousness of the suit - a dark burgundy tie would look much better with the colours you've chosen, for example. 

post #32078 of 43874

While I agree that the tie doesn't work with that DB, I love the tie, and if you decide to get rid of it based solely on the feedback from this thread, you know where to send it.

post #32079 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelton View Post


It's certainly got a bit of room, I feel that perhaps the gorge (is that the right term?) of the lapels is a little low down and likewise the buttoning point is quite low so it throws off the proportion of the jacket. What would shortening do? Improve the silhouette? The trousers are very roomy now so they definitely need to be taken in an inch or two at the waist. I always assumed that DB's were meant to be longer than SB's.

I've never tried to have a jacket shortened, so I can't advise, sorry.  I suppose both the gorge and buttoning point (and camera angle) can create an illusion of length/shortness/fullness/whathaveyou.  How does it measure against your other jackets?

post #32080 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post

Today, fighting the incoming weather, relic of the storm that dumped all that snow on east coast Murrica...

As opposed to myself, merely a relic from the east coast of Murrica . . . biggrin.gif

Nelton/MeachamLake

Congratulations and wear your new (to you, at least) double-breasted suits in good health, Both show the criticality of button stance (more critical for DB suits perhaps even than SB's). You've both noted that the button stance seems to be a bit low on your suits - for comparison, see Andy57's posting between yours. I would agree that, in my experience, DB suit jackets tend to run a bit longer than comparable SB's, though I must confess that all of my current DB suits (except for one from Paul Stuart) are from Brooks Bros., which tends (or has tended) to make slightly longer jackets than other makers.

If you Google images of Hugo Jacomet, check out the button stances of his Cifonelli DB suits - very high in comparison to yours (and everyone else's). This seems to be a trademark of Cifonelli, and it works with Hugo's height (he's about 5'7"-5'8", judging from when I met him at the Armoury in NYC for a book signing).
post #32081 of 43874
post #32082 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by colco View Post
 
I have read more than once that bd's should be cut shorter than single breasted jackets, and both of mine do in fact measure 1" shorter than my sb jackets. 

 

I'm sure I've read this too, but I'm wary of it. DB jackets cut too short can look very boxy, at least on my frame.

 

I think ultimately the correct length of a DB depends on many other factors, such as the width and shape of the lapels, the button configuration and buttoning point, and so on.

post #32083 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by upr_crust View Post


Nelton/MeachamLake

Congratulations and wear your new (to you, at least) double-breasted suits in good health, Both show the criticality of button stance (more critical for DB suits perhaps even than SB's). You've both noted that the button stance seems to be a bit low on your suits - for comparison, see Andy57's posting between yours. I would agree that, in my experience, DB suit jackets tend to run a bit longer than comparable SB's, though I must confess that all of my current DB suits (except for one from Paul Stuart) are from Brooks Bros., which tends (or has tended) to make slightly longer jackets than other makers.

If you Google images of Hugo Jacomet, check out the button stances of his Cifonelli DB suits - very high in comparison to yours (and everyone else's). This seems to be a trademark of Cifonelli, and it works with Hugo's height (he's about 5'7"-5'8", judging from when I met him at the Armoury in NYC for a book signing).

 

Very true, Crusty. It's a very fine line, moreso than with any single breasted jacket. 

 

Interesting point about Hugo Jacomet. Whilst we're on the topic of DBs, here's a picture of him with Simon Crompton, who I believe is wearing A&S. They're quite similar height wise, yet their silhouettes are very different. If anything, I feel like the much lower button stance (and slightly longer length) on Simon's jacket makes him look much taller than he really is, whereas Hugo still looks 5"8.

 

Of course, the shoulders are polar opposites as well, so that clearly is playing a big part too. 

 

post #32084 of 43874

CBD today:

 

 

 

 

The square is the Hober map square, which is cream with different shades of tan/brown and blue.  For the life of me, I cannot get a picture where it does not look somewhat yellow, which is not the case in real life.

post #32085 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeachamLake View Post

Very true, Crusty. It's a very fine line, moreso than with any single breasted jacket. 

Interesting point about Hugo Jacomet. Whilst we're on the topic of DBs, here's a picture of him with Simon Crompton, who I believe is wearing A&S. They're quite similar height wise, yet their silhouettes are very different. If anything, I feel like the much lower button stance (and slightly longer length) on Simon's jacket makes him look much taller than he really is, whereas Hugo still looks 5"8.

Of course, the shoulders are polar opposites as well, so that clearly is playing a big part too. 

Note that the top two buttons on Simon's suit are less widely spaced apart than Hugo's, and that the gorge of the suit is narrower and higher, and the shoulders have a greater slope than Hugo's (with Cifonelli's trademark roped sleeves). Those factors make Simon look a bit taller than Hugo.
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