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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 2124

post #31846 of 44025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Miler View Post

Today at work, I am sporting a tattersall cutaway shirt, printed silk seven-fold, odd vest and a peak-lapel windowpane jacket with a white linen pocket square biggrin.gif 


Forgive me, Tom, but, as much as I like all of the individual pieces that you're wearing today, I don't think that the waistcoat is working as well as it might with that ensemble. I think that it's the pattern that is adding a note of dissonance to the look - were the waistcoat a plain shade of grey, I think that it would look better. Just my two zlotys . . . smile.gif
post #31847 of 44025

I'm wearing the DB suit a lot lately, as I don't think I will easily pull it off in my next position...

 

 

 

post #31848 of 44025
Quote:
Originally Posted by upr_crust View Post


Forgive me, Tom, but, as much as I like all of the individual pieces that you're wearing today, I don't think that the waistcoat is working as well as it might with that ensemble. I think that it's the pattern that is adding a note of dissonance to the look - were the waistcoat a plain shade of grey, I think that it would look better. Just my two zlotys . . . smile.gif

 

Must side with Crusty here. Lovely garments all of them, but somehow the waistcoat breaks the proverbial camel's back. I would loose the waistcoat completely, the fit would be great without it, or go for something monochrome and a shade lighter. (Btw, the waistcoat in itself is a real beauty, would love to see it with dark grey or navy flannel!).

post #31849 of 44025
Something more orthodox than yesterday.

post #31850 of 44025

Wearing my superb new Shibumi tie and wonder if my pics do it full justice...

 

Deets and feet:

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Edited by Mr Knightley - 1/26/16 at 5:41am
post #31851 of 44025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

Something more orthodox than yesterday.

It's a very nice suit, but something in the fit looks off on the lower part. I don't quite understand what, but I'd expect the stripes to go more vertically along the body. Is the jacket quite roomy?
post #31852 of 44025

Thank you all for the thumbs. Wearing my favorite square for the fall and winter. Tweed and lambswool and flannel...again. 

 

Watch and Texture (Click to show)

 

Best,

DL-

post #31853 of 44025

Surely the best "critic-to-filmmaker" is Truffaut.

 

I think people should put their money where their mouth is, or at least learn how to critique, rather than just snipe at stuff. Not that I'm accusing anybody in the last few days of sniping – seems to me this whole kerfluffle was about the personalities and philosophies behind a critique,

 

@Haaviz

 

Not bad for a fourth post. Can't judge much about the fit in those pictures, but it doesn't seem like there's anything too badly wrong. The satin tie there is much too formal for any kind of brushed cloth, and the solid dark gray jacket is tricky to pull off. I have a heavyweight cashmere one with enough weight, or a herringbone tweed in the same color can work, but that one is sub-optimal, and you'd be better served by a sportcoat made in an actual jacketing cloth. I also, generally, think an odd jacket and trousers (apart from a navy blazer and gray trousers, of course) look much better with brown shoes. It works okay here because there's no shades of brown in the rest of the outfit.

post #31854 of 44025
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

It's a very nice suit, but something in the fit looks off on the lower part. I don't quite understand what, but I'd expect the stripes to go more vertically along the body. Is the jacket quite roomy?

Funny you should say that. I have noticed the same thing. It is probably a problem with the skirt of the suit being a bit tight around my hips.

However -- and here is the weird aspect -- It does not feel tight in that area (and, in fact, it does not look like it is pulling). I do not think it is a pattern matching issue. It is a bit of an enigma to me. I have given some thought to letting out the waist of the jacket a smidge, to try to alleviate the effect. But I am a couple pounds heavier than normal, so I may just wait it out. What is strange here is that if it was a solid colored suit, I don't think there would be any fit issue.

At the end of the day though, I am not too picky about these things. I button things up for my WAYWRN pic, and then I walk around with my jacket open the rest of the day.
post #31855 of 44025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Haaviz View Post
 

 

 

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post
 

 

Not bad for a fourth post. Can't judge much about the fit in those pictures, but it doesn't seem like there's anything too badly wrong. The satin tie there is much too formal for any kind of brushed cloth, and the solid dark gray jacket is tricky to pull off. I have a heavyweight cashmere one with enough weight, or a herringbone tweed in the same color can work, but that one is sub-optimal, and you'd be better served by a sportcoat made in an actual jacketing cloth. I also, generally, think an odd jacket and trousers (apart from a navy blazer and gray trousers, of course) look much better with brown shoes. It works okay here because there's no shades of brown in the rest of the outfit.

 

Sadly, I think your critique would have been much better without the bolded statements. This fit is not good for the reasons you stated, and several more. The jacket itself is remarkably short, almost looking like a woman's jacket. The tie looks terrible, like a deflated balloon for some reason. The jacket color is not only sub-optimal but nearly off limits. In addition the lapels aren't doing the look any favors. I understand that the skinny lapel thing is still lingering around and I admit to indulging in it rarely, but here it's another bad element of a snowballing of bad elements.

post #31856 of 44025

@YRR92 Thanks for the reply, I wholeheartedly agree with all your critiques, fun fact, or well, more amusing I guess, is that I was initially going to use a navy blazer with the same outfit. I was on my way out and managed to rip apart one of the buttons off of the SC and no time to fix it before I left hence why I have a dark grey/black munks/black belt. Was supposed to be brown belt/brown munks/navy SC. This would imo be a better outfit, and more or less would respond to most if not all your critiques. The tie is more of me not having enough ties to have all the color and finishes I would like yet, and I kind of make do with what I have. Again, thanks for the comment and I'll make sure to remember for next time. 

post #31857 of 44025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 

 

 

 

Sadly, I think your critique would have been much better without the bolded statements. This fit is not good for the reasons you stated, and several more. The jacket itself is remarkably short, almost looking like a woman's jacket. The tie looks terrible, like a deflated balloon for some reason. The jacket color is not only sub-optimal but nearly off limits. In addition the lapels aren't doing the look any favors. I understand that the skinny lapel thing is still lingering around and I admit to indulging in it rarely, but here it's another bad element of a snowballing of bad elements.

Ain't there a saying about flies, honey, and vinegar? Frankly, I'm not willing to speak to fit based on those pictures. That said, based on those pictures, you may be right.

 

And how was your fourth post? Mine was worse than this. I'm willing to break things to people gently.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Haaviz View Post
 

@YRR92 Thanks for the reply, I wholeheartedly agree with all your critiques, fun fact, or well, more amusing I guess, is that I was initially going to use a navy blazer with the same outfit. I was on my way out and managed to rip apart one of the buttons off of the SC and no time to fix it before I left hence why I have a dark grey/black munks/black belt. Was supposed to be brown belt/brown munks/navy SC. This would imo be a better outfit, and more or less would respond to most if not all your critiques. The tie is more of me not having enough ties to have all the color and finishes I would like yet, and I kind of make do with what I have. Again, thanks for the comment and I'll make sure to remember for next time. 

I don't think you needed to switch from brown to black. The tie is, honestly, just kinda bad. Texture is as important as color, and this fails the texture test, and on such a neutral background you can wear any color you like.

 

You may want, in the future, to try and take some pictures that make it slightly easier to assess the fit of the clothes, since that's a useful avenue of feedback. It takes a bit of effort but it paid off for me.

post #31858 of 44025
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post
 

Ain't there a saying about flies, honey, and vinegar?

 

You aren't wrong. You're just using too much honey. Way too much. :) 

post #31859 of 44025
@Caustic Man My shirt jackets is more or less a result of lack of SC's that fit me OTR since I'm fairly tall 195cm(6"4 I believe?). In Europe, and furthermore Scandinavia, which is where I'm from, OTR jackets are unfortunately shorter, with narrower lapels. I found myself just ordering new SC's from the US and I'm in the process of tailoring them as we speak. Since the jackets I get over there in my shoulder width is superboxy. Will include one of the new coats in the next fit I post.   Again, I agree about the tie. When it comes to the jacket color being off limits and/or sub-optimal I disagree. I like the color and would not think twice about buying a new one in a similar color, be it "SF" or "classic menswear" approved or not :) 
 
@YRR92 About using other ties I like more, ofc I could, but I wanted to use this as it hasnt seen much if any daylight(I figure there's a good reason for that right about now) When it comes to pictures I do not have a stand-alone camera nor a tripod. Could ask my GF to take them as I guess it would be easier to assess the fit in a more robotic posture. Rasing my hand kind of ruins it all. 

Other than that I thank both of you for good comments, and I will improve upon the ones I agree with.  
post #31860 of 44025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Haaviz View Post
 
@Caustic Man My shirt jackets is more or less a result of lack of SC's that fit me OTR since I'm fairly tall 195cm(6"4 I believe?). In Europe, and furthermore Scandinavia, which is where I'm from, OTR jackets are unfortunately shorter, with narrower lapels. I found myself just ordering new SC's from the US and I'm in the process of tailoring them as we speak. Since the jackets I get over there in my shoulder width is superboxy. Will include one of the new coats in the next fit I post.   Again, I agree about the tie. When it comes to the jacket color being off limits and/or sub-optimal I disagree. I like the color and would not think twice about buying a new one in a similar color, be it "SF" or "classic menswear" approved or not :) 

 

I know your challenge. I am fairly tall myself, though not as tall as you. The best option is to simply not buy OTR because if they are too short they will always look bad and you will just waste your money. You are making the right move by going where you need to go to get the right fit, and investing in tailoring. As for the color of the jacket, you are wrong. It's bad. But you are Scandinavian, so you have a grace period :satisfied:

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