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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 1694

post #25396 of 46031
I wonder if there'd be any point to lengthening a jacket like JC's by 1/2". Would the jacket still be well proportioned and if so, would the tailoring be worth it? I ask with a couple of my own jackets in mind.
post #25397 of 46031
Quote:
Originally Posted by semperexcelsius View Post
 

Really? I think it makes him look a little top-heavy, but I suppose that could also be the subtle influence of the hem and the pockets, anyway. I'd put the button just a little bit upwards, nearer the crook of his arm.

I'd say it doesn't make him look top heavy, both because it divides him at his natural waist, and because showing more shirt (and thus more of a light color and a stronger v-shape) tends to decrease visual mass above the waist, and draws the eye upward, and it seems to minimize his rounded upper chest.

 

Did you mean something like this?

 

http://www.styleforum.net/g/i/1547729/a/540029/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iv-starting-may-2014/sort/display_order/

 

Because while that looks okay, it doesn't do as much to counteract the impression of a barrel chest, which can cause balance issues.

 

EDIT: @Bill Dlwgosh Now, that wouldn't help, because although it might make the jacket more like a "classically well-proportioned jacket," it would be too long on DonC and make him look, yes, top-heavy. The proportions of tailoring are dependent on the proportions of the body. DonC has a relatively tricky build to fit, but because he's generally very smart about the proportions of his tailoring (and pretty knowledgeable in general about fit), his stuff looks excellent.

 

On the other hand, I think this jacket, with a higher than normal buttoning stance, doesn't work quite as well – and I think the balance issues are, in part, due to the jacket "hinging" around the button.

 

http://www.styleforum.net/g/i/1544747/a/540029/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iv-starting-may-2014/sort/display_order/

post #25398 of 46031
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post
 

I'd say it doesn't make him look top heavy, both because it divides him at his natural waist, and because showing more shirt (and thus more of a light color and a stronger v-shape) tends to decrease visual mass above the waist, and draws the eye upward, and it seems to minimize his rounded upper chest.

 

Did you mean something like this?

 

http://www.styleforum.net/g/i/1547729/a/540029/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iv-starting-may-2014/sort/display_order/

 

Because while that looks okay, it doesn't do as much to counteract the impression of a barrel chest, which can cause balance issues.

 

EDIT: @Bill Dlwgosh Now, that wouldn't help, because although it might make the jacket more like a "classically well-proportioned jacket," it would be too long on DonC and make him look, yes, top-heavy. The proportions of tailoring are dependent on the proportions of the body. DonC has a relatively tricky build to fit, but because he's generally very smart about the proportions of his tailoring (and pretty knowledgeable in general about fit), his stuff looks excellent.

 

On the other hand, I think this jacket, with a higher than normal buttoning stance, doesn't work quite as well – and I think the balance issues are, in part, due to the jacket "hinging" around the button.

 

http://www.styleforum.net/g/i/1544747/a/540029/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iv-starting-may-2014/sort/display_order/

I think both of those buttoning points are better than the one in question.

 

@Bill Dlwgosh the jacket in the first link in @YRR92's post is longer. What do you think?

post #25399 of 46031
post #25400 of 46031
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post


Textures/fabrics (Click to show)
Very nice!
post #25401 of 46031
Thanks!
post #25402 of 46031
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcobinad View Post


Thanks for the information. Never heard about Kamakura shirt makers. It seems their shops are spread across every town of Japan and the US only. Not even one in Europe except for their online store. Have you tried their shirts before? If yes, can you comment on the quality of the make, fabric, durability etc? I would like to know if their shirts have stood the test of time before I take the plunge. Lastly, do you know how long it takes to ship to Europe? I think their shirts are reasonably priced though.


I love Kamakura shirts.  I'm about 3,000 miles from the closest location to me (NY).  So I order them online.  For the price I haven't found anything that compares.  As far as OCBDs go, they are my go to.  I can't imagine you can find better, regardless of budget (I'm probably wrong about this), without going MTM.

post #25403 of 46031
Quote:
Originally Posted by europrep View Post

Hot one today in Boston, so seersucker it is...

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

That's the 'Hove' ?  Damn I think it's one of the nicest Norwegers out there.  Grail shoo for me. 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
tumblr_ntdzagESkE1r8bgano1_1280.jpg

 

 

 

Noice SVB

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post



Thanks, gents! @Pliny it's a Formosa x NMWA Fresco.

 

Ah thanks, such a great weave.

Looks fantastic.   Then again, u always do.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Extremely enamoured of that watch/strap combo

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcobinad View Post Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


I see how this button down collar shirt with a tie works a treat for you. Have loads of them for casual look not just formal enough for me to wear with a tie. The button down collar shirt was the norm back in the 80s and early 90s for most gents to wear with a tie and looked the part. Over time, I suppose it fell out of fashion and its use replaced by spread out collars. I'm beginning to find them very attractive again and guess I have to push myself out of my comfort zone and try something new. wink.gif

 

 

 

I find that I can't get my BD/tie/lapel combos to balance, and yet I see it work well on other people.  Agnelli always looked good in them: he wore them a lot.  JCM looks great here too.  I don't know how to articulate the problem but may have to do with large head, sloping shoulders and that a BD looks better paired with a looser fit in chest and shoulders of the jacket + smallish tie knot.

 

 

@mcobinad  I like Kamakura too.  Wide selection of cloths.  Some of the cottons r special, I have one that irons with the stiffness of linen. Love it.  The '300 club' shirts are imo not worth it unless u want a slightly see thru lite wt shirt.   I  prefrer heavier cottons.  The Kamakura BD has the most 'roll' in the collor in any RTW I know of.  And the Tokyo slim fit is actually slim :) 

post #25404 of 46031
Quote:
Originally Posted by JensenH View Post


After having eaten many pizzas in Italy without knive and fork, including Sorbillo in Napoli, I now realized that I, along with all the other Neapolitan diners there, was being uncouth.

BTW, your hat is too big for your head.

 

I hate to bring it back to pizza (no, I don't, actually) - I was once told that traditional pizzerias didn't serve other food like pastas (which require cutlery) because - traditionally - pizza is meant to be eaten with your hands (sans cutlery).

 

The influx of tourism has changed the face of this tradition, according to this man who ran his restaurant in Florence.

post #25405 of 46031

Yes, but Florentine pizza is characterized by rounded front quarter slices that are easier to eat with one's hands, whereas Neapolitan pizza has soft shoulder-crusts and extended front dart-slices that require a knife and fork.

post #25406 of 46031
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post
 

Yes, but Florentine pizza is characterized by rounded front quarter slices that are easier to eat with one's hands, whereas Neapolitan pizza has soft shoulder-crusts and extended front dart-slices that require a knife and fork.

 

:)

 

 

Florentine or Neapolitan, you really need to have commissioned at least 11 pizzas b4 u can discuss them with any authority

post #25407 of 46031
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
 

 

 

 

Extremely enamoured of that watch/strap combo

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks.  I've only had it a few months, but have really enjoyed it.. 

post #25408 of 46031
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldofdreams View Post
 


I love Kamakura shirts.  I'm about 3,000 miles from the closest location to me (NY).  So I order them online.  For the price I haven't found anything that compares.  As far as OCBDs go, they are my go to.  I can't imagine you can find better, regardless of budget (I'm probably wrong about this), without going MTM.


Wish I could buy some Kamkura shirts.. I love the collars... but they dont make them long enough for my 38.6 inch sleeve length arms :plain:... its all good.. Ill just live vicariously through you guy's fits..

post #25409 of 46031
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
 

 

:)

 

 

Florentine or Neapolitan, you really need to have commissioned at least 11 pizzas b4 u can discuss them with any authority

 

And a wallet, to pay for the pizzas.

post #25410 of 46031
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