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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 1612

post #24166 of 44000

Thanks for the thumbs for my last post - even though I didn't get any comments. 

post #24167 of 44000
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post


I hope this doesn't come across as stirring controversy but I have to note that a well cut DB should pull a little at the buttoning point. All the better tailors I've met make sure to create a little bit of tension there to give some life to the DB. If the jacket is cut well and fitted properly, the slight pulling has no bearing on fit of the jacket at the waist, since it is engineered by having the buttons slightly further apart than the buttonholes. A DB jacket without a little bit of pulling tends to look flat and lifeless.

Agree with this. My tailor has been the same little old Italian man for years and I've gotten him to alter numerous suits and jackets. I noticed after he returned my first DB that he ever worked on the button pulled a bit more than on the other jackets he's done for me. I asked him about it and he gave me pretty much the same info.
post #24168 of 44000
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

A DB jacket without a little bit of pulling tends to look flat and lifeless.

 

I don't think this is necessarily true. @Betelgeuse's DBs don't pull in any noticeable way and he wears them better than almost anyone here, as below. I suspect the preference for pulling in the buttons is more a subjective (Italian?) thing.

 


Edited by Caustic Man - 8/2/15 at 6:19am
post #24169 of 44000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Thanks for the thumbs and comments, gents. Yesterday's fit was put together in a hurry and yet I immediately had a good feeling about it. It was a winner on the street and at work, and appears even to have graced SF's front page. Cool bananas!

Credit where it's due: two of the pieces were on "maiden voyage". The jacket is Brunello Cucinelli, and was the bargain of the millenium. Cotton, buggy-lined, fitted like a glove off the rack, but had several large stains which looked like they might have occurred during shipping. I pointed them all out to the shop manager, bargained hard, and won the deal. One visit to the dry-cleaners later, it's pretty much as good as new. (You can still see the stains if you know where to look, but they are hardly noticeable now.)

The burgundy Sozzi knit is from @Henry Carter
and there are still a few "on sale" right now (in several colours). Jason's stuff is always great and these prices are irresistible, even more so for you lucky Stateside bastards with your strong dollar.

@mcobinad
 , I liked both versions of your last fit but preferred the green tie. Also the jacket is by no means too large on you. Pents still a little more close-fitting than would be my preference, but I guess this will always be tricky, given your musculature.

Your outfit looks great from a distance, but from up close certain things strike me as a bit odd. The top half looks great, with the somewhat summery colour palette, but the bottom half is more winter like, with those patterned orphaned suit trousers and those burgundy captoes.

I think it would've looked a lot better with non patterned but textured trousers and loafers instead, or just as suit. Right now the top and bottom are a bit incongruent.
post #24170 of 44000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy Al View Post

Thanks for the thumbs for my last post - even though I didn't get any comments. 

Means you're doing something right! At least that's how I interpret this phenomenon when it happens with my pics. lol8[1].gif
post #24171 of 44000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post


Your outfit looks great from a distance, but from up close certain things strike me as a bit odd. The top half looks great, with the somewhat summery colour palette, but the bottom half is more winter like, with those patterned orphaned suit trousers and those burgundy captoes.

I think it would've looked a lot better with non patterned but textured trousers and loafers instead, or just as suit. Right now the top and bottom are a bit incongruent.

 

Fair comment, although the trousers are not from a suit. They are genuine "odd" trousers, in very soft and thin flannel, so probably more suitable for spring or autumn. The jacket OTOH, while white and summery-looking, is from quite a heavy and dense cotton, and so it's actually not suitable for genuinely hot weather.

 

I tied everything together using burgundy. There's a burgundy overcheck in the trousers, the shoes, belt (not seen) and tie are solid burgundy, an there are red highlights in the pocket square and even the feathers in the hatband.

 

I will certainly try out your suggestion though, next time I wear the jacket.

post #24172 of 44000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sander View Post


Means you're doing something right! At least that's how I interpret this phenomenon when it happens with my pics. lol8[1].gif

 

So do I. Normally. If they're not giving me the silence-treatment.  ;-)

In the last post I had some questions, but then, I cannot expect everybody to be eager to answer my wonderings. No big deal.

post #24173 of 44000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

 

 

100% perfect. :)

post #24174 of 44000

Trying to learn, question about the shoulders in this pic.  Does it seem to fit just a bit wide across the very top of the shoulders?  It looks as if there's a little bit of an overhang on each shoulder just on the outside of the seam.

 

Not sure if that's by design, the happenstance of the posture, or what, but thought I'd inquire as I'm trying to get smarter on these things.

 

Thanks!
  Tim

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Summer wedding today
  Spoiler of VVV fit (Click to show)


Luxire
Formosa
Rota
post #24175 of 44000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

I don't think this is necessarily true. @Betelgeuse
's DBs don't pull in any noticeable way and he wears them better than almost anyone here, as below. I suspect the preference for pulling in the buttons is more a subjective (Italian?) thing. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Hard to argue that this doesn't look good. It looks wonderful.

I don't think creating the tension of the buttoning point on DB is exclusive to Italian tailors (although some of them may accentuate it a tad more). However, this seems to be very much exclusive to bespoke tailors. It's that small extra detail that finishes a well tailored jacket and gives it a little more life and volume.

Even Prince Charles with his much boxier DB cut often shows a little bit of tension there (likely created by the tailor with that small extra distance). Clearly, the waist isn't too tight here...


post #24176 of 44000
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post


this seems to be very much exclusive to bespoke tailors. It's that small extra detail that finishes a well tailored jacket and gives it a little more life and volume.

 

This may be so, and if it is intentional then good on them for getting what they want. If it were me however, I wouldn't want it.

post #24177 of 44000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

this seems to be very much exclusive to bespoke tailors. It's that small extra detail that finishes a well tailored jacket and gives it a little more life and volume.

This may be so, and if it is intentional then good on them for getting what they want. If it were me however, I wouldn't want it.

Today, at least, we are in agreement.
post #24178 of 44000
Well, certainly you don't have to like it. I understand. I was providing a different perspective on this, as most would see the slight pulling and conclude that the fit is off. That's not necessarily the case, and it can be a stylistic preference rather than fit.

I personally have learned to like a little bit of tension after having heard a couple of tailors making their case.
post #24179 of 44000
Quote:
Originally Posted by tim221 View Post


That's actually the spalla camicia (the shirt sleeve style shoulder), this jacket is relatively new (only been worn twice I think) and hasn't settled in all the way

Also caustic... Your argument seems to be based solely on one SF posters DB?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

I don't think this is necessarily true. @Betelgeuse
's DBs don't pull in any noticeable way and he wears them better than almost anyone here, as below. I suspect the preference for pulling in the buttons is more a subjective (Italian?) thing.

I mean... GDL is talking tradition and you're saying what you subjectively prefer... Totally different. And one person's jacket isn't proof of that argument.
Edited by venividivicibj - 8/2/15 at 9:26am
post #24180 of 44000
Cool enough to wear a jacket and tie. Still on a summer theme


IMG_7336MOD.jpg
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