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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 1218

post #18256 of 45931

I, too, have greatly enjoyed this debate. I certainly believe there are rules to CM, but I think some of the dispute has been how one interprets "rule". Some see them as regulations (inviolate) while others see them as guidelines and heuristics, and therefore evolutionary and dynamic. Some see them as analytically derived, while others see them as empirically discovered, . Still others see them as dictum while others see them as social/cultural norms that emerge organically within the social group.

 

The closest analogy I can think of is the work of the architect Chris Alexander. He wrote 3 books in the 70s on recurring "patterns" in successful (attractive, harmonious, enjoyable to live within) buildings and built environments (One being A Timeless Way of Building - especially for Tira). These patterns were distilled from his study of building over centuries and formed a pattern language through which people could communicate complex ideas in terse terms. An example is 4 story limit - limit the height of buildings in a residential community to 4 stories.  His ideas are not widely adopted in architecture, but they were picked up with gusto in the computer science community as they were struggling with the design and architecture of massively complex systems and sought heuristics to help guide the process.

 

The upshot of all this is that I see the rules of dressings as heuristics collectively learned through experience over time which then emerge as norms within a given group. As in many complex systems, some of these rules can be in tension in a given situation, and priorities come into effect and thus some rules get broken, but it is only the expert who knows when it is the right time to break a given rule. He understands the consequences of the break, because he knows (if only subconsciously) the rules that he is breaking. Hence, it is the realm of the expert to break rules. Novices need first to learn and apply them.

post #18257 of 45931

What's the point of having a breast pocket with a PS if the lapels are so wide that it is:
a) barely visible

b) stuffing up the lapels

post #18258 of 45931
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

shitty pics but:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/469255/friday-really-saturday-challenge-march-28th-50-shades-of-black-tie/15#post_7781459

I don't think I would wear a long tie with it. Bow tie or open collar

Thanks! I was thinking of having a navy self faced shawl lapel jacket made, from a somewhat textured fabric. Still not sure whether I'd like the open collared look with it.
post #18259 of 45931

Just wanted to take 2 seconds of my time to point out that @justinkapur has put out some excellent fits in the lasts pages or so! I don't know what's your shoes/socks budget but you left me green with envy!

 

Nice fits by @upr_crust, @Sander, @NickPollica and @VictorSFreturn also!

 

Thank you guys for the time you take to pose, edit and upload pictures everyday or almost! 

post #18260 of 45931
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelton View Post


Lovely fit as always Victor, but the coat sleeves are slightly too short, it betrays the practical purpose of a coat to have the sleeves shorter than your shirt and/or jacket. The purpose of a coat is to protect you from the elements and if the sleeves are too short then it cannot do this.

Cheers,
Nick

 

Thank U! You're right about the required length coat. But if you look closely - it can be seen - strong wrinkles cloth coat in the elbow. So tailor-made for shooting, the sleeves a little pull on up to shoulder, to show the game textures and shades coat-shirt-cardigan accessories. In the basic position when lowered or arms bent at the elbow cuff coat, self-other, covers everything that is put under him.

post #18261 of 45931
post #18262 of 45931
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ianiceman View Post


Not only that but he grew a beard and tash in one day. Amazing!

 

I have repeatedly written - that spread various photos. Part of the new photo, and the other part made a little earlier.

post #18263 of 45931
New client cancels his appointment 30 mins before he's supposed to come in......just look at my face....

post #18264 of 45931
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

New client cancels his appointment 30 mins before he's supposed to come in......just look at my face....


Cool pic. But I will never want to be a client of you...
post #18265 of 45931

About the multi-page discussion here. I will not say anything new. It is trite, obvious, and it is a fact:

 

1. The rules can be broken. Some Days.

 

2. BUT !!! Only if you know the rules very well, and you have the talent and knowledge to break the rules aesthetically and competently.

 

3. Classic rules are always at the forefront.

 

4. If you do exeperimental, but doubt as a result - then it is better to stop exeperimental. And dress strictly by the rules. Axiom.

 

5. Again and again, learning and repeating the rules - this is the most important rule.

 

6. Experimentation should be in moderation. Very moderate.


All this is terribly banal. But again - it is a fact.

 

:)


Edited by VictorSFreturn - 4/9/15 at 9:09am
post #18266 of 45931
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Eidos
Canali
Rubinacci on maiden voyage
Bigi
Incotex
Pantherella
GG

Looks great man—is that the linen donegal jacket from bloomies?
post #18267 of 45931
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

What's the point of having a breast pocket with a PS if the lapels are so wide that it is:

a) barely visible
b) stuffing up the lapels

You're on a hiding to nothing with comments like this on the SF RTC. Saturday Night Fever lapels are almost universally jizzed over while anything than can remotely be considered 'slim' let alone ' skinny' is gonna be the subject of almost universal derision. That's one of the unfortunate maxims that have evolved on SF, mores the pity. I remember the seventies as the decade that style forgot, and we should not go there again!
post #18268 of 45931
It may not add much but I think there are two sides, preservation and restoration. Obviously people want to preserve the rules and ideas out of respect and the fact they work.

However, the industry does in a sense need to restore the ideals of tailored clothing. Since everything now is more casual people need to be inspired to dress up, thus some kind of new angle must be presented to try and increase the audience.I've seen it just by wearing items from brands like eidos where the owners of my company who rarely dress up anymore start to ask about the piece and get excited about tailored clothing again.
post #18269 of 45931
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Cool pic. But I will never want to be a client of you...

Now that's a glass half empty attitude, go and make something of yourself!
post #18270 of 45931

This is how it turned out to day. A more radical shit than I normally wear.

 

 

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

Suit - MTM, Whitcomb & Shaftsbury

Shirt - MTM, Turnbull & Asser

Tie - CT
PS - Berg & Berg

Suspenders - Thurston

Shoes - Loake

Shine - mysef

Comments are welcomed 

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