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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 1022

post #15316 of 44071

good idea, what would you recommend? bar lacing (or whatever you call it)?

post #15317 of 44071
Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidtdalton13 View Post
 

good idea, what would you recommend? bar lacing (or whatever you call it)?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I would suggest lacing your shoes differently. As is, they are laced like tennis shoes


Can either of you give suggestions on the different ways to lace dress shoes?

post #15318 of 44071
Thread Starter 
I use bar lacing (dont know if that's what it's called, but it sounds good) for balmorals. And something similar to what he did for some of my bluchers. Looks better with bluchers because if the increased space between eyelets. Use bar lacing for other bluchers.




Edited by Claghorn - 2/19/15 at 8:23pm
post #15319 of 44071
Quote:
Originally Posted by justridiculous View Post
 

 

 


Can either of you give suggestions on the different ways to lace dress shoes?

 

 

post #15320 of 44071
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

One of the fundamental misunderstandings that I find in CM, is that there are suits and sportsjacket that can be considered "pre-step change" and those that should be considered "post step change."  To criticize one for not being the other does not really make for an interesting or enlightening discussion.  I think that it's a useful exercise to distinguish one from the other, and criticize them only in context.  

 

There has been a fundamental change in the way men dress in the past half century or so.  No amount of wailing will reverse this.  We will inevitably go to a different paradigm, but it will most assuredly not be the paradigm 80 years ago. 

 

?  haven't heard these expressions

 

Yes altho I think MC formality is seeing a bit of a resurgence.  Bespoke (&MTM) shopfronts run by young guys like Oscar Hunt and Patrick Johnson here in Oz, for example.  StyleForum.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidtdalton13 View Post
 

I don't have a full picture unfortunately, they all turned out awful. From valentines day: 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

pants are a bit rumpled from trying to take the picture

 

linen square here, IMO

post #15321 of 44071
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

 

?  haven't heard these expressions

 

Yes altho I think MC formality is seeing a bit of a resurgence.  Bespoke (&MTM) shopfronts run by young guys like Oscar Hunt and Patrick Johnson here in Oz, for example.  StyleForum.

I made up the terms.  All I mean by them is the change in ideas of dress and style that started in the 60s.  So, a suit by a designer, say, Rick Owens, and I choose that example only because he is popular now, should not be critiqued in the same way as a suit by, say, Rubinacci, who purports to carry on a tradition, or a suit from a Savile Row firm.  Rick Owens is using the suit as inspiration, and using the language of the suit to suit his needs.  He is not trying to make a suit in the traditional sense, and actually, would probably have failed if he made a very good traditional suit.  His silhouette looks nothing like classic proportions.  His is an exaggeratedly slim jacket paired with pants that are voluminous, but come to a sharp taper.  And often paired with sneakers that are deliberately cartoonish.  It's a rough but evocative sketch.  His suits, and the suits of other designers, should probably be seen more like the reinterpretation of the suit by Coco Chanel.  If Chanel had made a suit for a woman that looked like a man's suit, but for a woman, she would have failed.

 

Yes, there is a resurgence of classic menswear "style".  But that should not be interpreted as a movement back to something, but rather, as the next stage in moving away from the suit as a standard uniform.  It's becoming more and more a point of reference and a source of inspiration, than something ubiquitous and necessary.  Wearing a suit, for many younger men, is a expression of personal style.  Some guys wear optic white sneakers and Hood by Air (if you don't know what it is, you might want to spare yourself).  Some guys wear #menswear suits.  Some guys wear CBD suits.  I think that this development is a welcome one.  I wear leather and jeans, but it would be a boring world if everyone chose to to dress like me, or me like everyone else.

post #15322 of 44071
Quote:
Originally Posted by justridiculous View Post
 

 

 


Can either of you give suggestions on the different ways to lace dress shoes?


Here's a link to a website with many different ways of lacing......

http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/lacingmethods.htm

post #15323 of 44071
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I use bar lacing (dont know if that's what it's called, but it sounds good) for balmorals. And something similar to what he did for some of my bluchers. Looks better with bluchers because if the increased space between eyelets. Use bar lacing for other bluchers.



 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post
 

 

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roycru View Post
 


Here's a link to a website with many different ways of lacing......

http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/lacingmethods.htm


Thank you, gentlemen! That's very helpful.

post #15324 of 44071
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

Yes, there is a resurgence of classic menswear "style".  But that should not be interpreted as a movement back to something, but rather, as the next stage in moving away from the suit as a standard uniform.  It's becoming more and more a point of reference and a source of inspiration, than something ubiquitous and necessary.  Wearing a suit, for many younger men, is a expression of personal style.  Some guys wear optic white sneakers and Hood by Air (if you don't know what it is, you might want to spare yourself).  Some guys wear #menswear suits.  Some guys wear CBD suits.  I think that this development is a welcome one.  I wear leather and jeans, but it would be a boring world if everyone chose to to dress like me, or me like everyone else.

 

Question is, are the Rick Owenses and the Thom Brownes just contemporary versions of Edward Sexton in the 70s or Armani in the 80s?   i.e.  abberations in the force, if u will..  culs-de-sac that no-one will venture down ever again.   Or are they  part of general move forward?  I suspect they're a gimmick, while true MC keeps on keeping on.  

post #15325 of 44071
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

 

Question is, are the Rick Owenses and the Thom Brownes just contemporary versions of Edward Sexton in the 70s or Armani in the 80s?   i.e.  abberations in the force, if u will..  culs-de-sac that no-one will venture down ever again.   Or are they  part of general move forward?  I suspect they're a gimmick, while true MC keeps on keeping on.  

Armani and Edward Sexton both have had lasting effects on menswear and the idea of the suit.  And while the influence of Armani has been seen in more subtle guises in the 00s, in this decade (his use of beige and grey and crepe has never really left us), his influence and that of other 80s designers are in full evidence in this generation of young designers.  Anyone from the 20s transported into 2015 would not find anything that more than superficially resembles what they were used to wearing.  

 

As for someone like Thom Browne., you see his influence even here, in our temple.  In les anciens temps, the question was "full break" or "half break".  I scarcely see either anymore.  It's more like "barely a break" or "no break.  Yes, these things have previous precedents, but the trend right now is easily traced back to Thom Browne.  That, or everyone had the same idea at the same time.

 

A truism is that you can't stop the future from coming.

post #15326 of 44071
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post
 
 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

 

Question is, are the Rick Owenses and the Thom Brownes just contemporary versions of Edward Sexton in the 70s or Armani in the 80s?   i.e.  abberations in the force, if u will..  culs-de-sac that no-one will venture down ever again.   Or are they  part of general move forward?  I suspect they're a gimmick, while true MC keeps on keeping on.  

Armani and Edward Sexton both have had lasting effects on menswear and the idea of the suit.  And while the influence of Armani has been seen in more subtle guises in the 00s, in this decade (his use of beige and grey and crepe has never really left us), his influence and that of other 80s designers are in full evidence in this generation of young designers.  Anyone from the 20s transported into 2015 would not find anything that more than superficially resembles what they were used to wearing

.  

 

As for someone like Thom Browne., you see his influence even here, in our temple.  In les anciens temps, the question was "full break" or "half break".  I scarcely see either anymore.  It's more like "barely a break" or "no break.  Yes, these things have previous precedents, but the trend right now is easily traced back to Thom Browne.  That, or everyone had the same idea at the same time.

 

A truism is that you can't stop the future from coming.

 

 

I came to no break because I want ppl to see my awsm shoos.  :rimshot:

 

 I'm dead against stasis.  It disturbs me to see ppl trying to replicate Cary Grant or Fred Astaire - typre looks.  I'm simplifying, but I prefer a lower/med rise, no pleats, high hem + minimal shoulder padding and chest structure.   But I don't want to get ahead of the curve either. (And no-one ahead of the curve posts on SF anyway).  The posters I admire most are the ones who r right on point. Vox, Toiletduck, YfYf. Matt You, from what little I've seen of u. 

post #15327 of 44071
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)









Edit: Not sure why I wasn't smiling today. 

Good fit, but I think the very light pocket square doesn't work that well with the dark jacket and tie. Something closer in uh... darkness? would have looked better imo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Very nice! Looks inconspicuous, but on closer inspection there are at least three patterns in there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by macjedi View Post

New tie today via eBay…
E.G Cappelli Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Unintentional Yukio Akamine impression (Click to show)

Same here as with heldentenor: a darker pocket square would have balanced the look better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Autofocus was being a dick today Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

But it led to this very Italian hand gesture!
post #15328 of 44071
I if only could own one tie, it would be this one. Works with just about anything, and ties a superb knot..


Closeup (Click to show)
post #15329 of 44071
Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidtdalton13 View Post

I don't have a full picture unfortunately, they all turned out awful. From valentines day: 



Looks very sharp, and cozy for a Minnesota Winter day.icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif And I really like the way the lapels fit on you.
post #15330 of 44071
Quote:
Originally Posted by justridiculous View Post




Can either of you give suggestions on the different ways to lace dress shoes?


hahahahaha holy shit are you people really that worried with what is the least consequential, visible aspect of your outfits? hahahahahaha no fucking way... I refuse to believe it.
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