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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 1002

post #15016 of 43911

Love the jacket and trouser combination. That's right up my alley.

post #15017 of 43911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spandexter View Post




Outstanding.
post #15018 of 43911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

Actually Elio wrote precisely what I was thinking: swap the jacket for a navy blazer and it's a lovely fit.

 

Toeing the line of traditional correctness is the very essence of this board. It's what we do here.

 

"Repp" is a widely misused term, including on this board. See this thread and this article for further clarification.

 

"A rep tie is made from silk that's woven in such a way as to produce tight diagonal ribs that make for deep, brilliant colors." ...and... "The repp in repp tie refers to the particular weave of the silk which affects the texture but not the pattern. Diagonally striped ties can be repp weave or not and repp ties can be striped or not."

 

So, what do you call a striped tie falling right-to-left with a non-repp weave (i.e. the type of tie worn by @clarinetplayer above)? I have no idea.

thanks for the insight. I did not know this

post #15019 of 43911
Home run, Spandexter.
post #15020 of 43911
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

 

Toeing the line of traditional correctness is the very essence of this board. It's what we do here.

 

BTW this was ever so slightly tongue-in-cheek. I'm sure you all realised that. As a recovering dandy, I am unlikely to be the person enforcing apparel "rules".

post #15021 of 43911

Girlfriend caught me fixing myself

 

post #15022 of 43911

^ would Spandexter's jacket be considered to be at the very short end of the wearable spectrum? I ask because I recently bought a jacket on Ebay (From GMMcL actually) which fits me about the same, at least lengthwise.

post #15023 of 43911
Are you asking because of how it looks in relation to his thumbs in the second pic? If so, I think that's deceiving because of the position of his arms. Actual length looks totally fine to me.

...or he could just have some pretty long arms.

Jacket looks bespoke but unsure if it is or not.
post #15024 of 43911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Dlwgosh View Post
 

^ would Spandexter's jacket be considered to be at the very short end of the wearable spectrum?

 

I don't think the jacket is short, I think his arms are long. Looks fine to me, btw.

post #15025 of 43911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Dlwgosh View Post
 

^ would Spandexter's jacket be considered to be at the very short end of the wearable spectrum? I ask because I recently bought a jacket on Ebay (From GMMcL actually) which fits me about the same, at least lengthwise.


I thought that too, I was always taught that a jacket would fall into your cupped hands and his doesn't look like it would. Then I looked at the true measure of a coat, that it covers your posterior and this jacket looks like it does. So he probably has long arms, but that jacket looks awesome.

post #15026 of 43911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Dlwgosh View Post

^ would Spandexter's jacket be considered to be at the very short end of the wearable spectrum? I ask because I recently bought a jacket on Ebay (From GMMcL actually) which fits me about the same, at least lengthwise.
IMO, minimum length should be that which covers your rear end. When viewed from the front, if the jacket hem hits the crotch of your trousers it will assure that your rear is covered.


post #15027 of 43911
Thanks for the thumbs and comments guys. Jacket is OTR Boglioli. I have long-ish arms for my size so that may be a factor in it looking slightly short.
post #15028 of 43911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tried and True View Post
 
 
IMO, minimum length should be that which covers your rear end. When viewed from the front, if the jacket hem hits the crotch of your trousers it will assure that your rear is covered.

[...]

 

Yes, the ‘cupped hand rule’ was in part a marketing invention which went viral with the mass production of ready-to-wear suits and jackets.  It made it possible for untrained salespeople at department stores and similar retail establishments to at least get within the right ballpark, which is where generations of men got most if not all of their information about fit.  The problem with it is that arm length can vary significantly between men of the same height.

.

The ‘cover the buttocks’ in the rear and ‘to the point where the two trouser inseams meet’ in the front is pretty much the ‘neutral position’ for tailors, on the other hand, who may then shorten or lengthen things a little bit if needed to accommodate aspects of the client’s physique.

 

Note, however, that certain aspects of the cut can create an illusion of shortness, especially in photographs, at least until one looks more carefully; the more open the quarters, for example, the more likely this momentary illusion. 

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #15029 of 43911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

the ‘cupped hand rule’

 

Personally I've never put much in that rule. I went by it when I first started buying jackets but I soon found out that if I followed it too closely I ended up looking weird. I can totally see it being something for untrained employees to go by.

post #15030 of 43911

From Despos's website (unavailable right now):  'A good rule of thumb is that the two-button jacket should cover your seat by 1".'

 

Cheers

 

Ac

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