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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) - Page 843

post #12631 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post



Bowler Hat by Locke and Co

Overcoat with detachable mink collar David Reeves own make.

Gloves by Tough Gloves

Scarf by Turnbull and Asser

The Riddler! LOL

Just kidding. Nice photo there.
post #12632 of 43874
Keep in mind that most men are not built like that underwear model, and as such, most RTW items are made to accommodate such a build. The reason guys like that look so good in suits is because they just look good in general.

If you put an average guy in a perfectly fitted suit, and a model handsome guy with an Adonis like body in a perfectly fitted suit, who is going to look like they look better in tailored clothing?
post #12633 of 43874
Really depends on the look you're going for, Stitchy.
post #12634 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tried and True View Post

Clothes (and everything else) will always be perceived as hanging better on a lean physique. The more muscle mass, the more fit issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Nonsense. Beanpole figures have just as many fit issues. But that's why there's tailored clothing, right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tried and True View Post

By a lean physique I mean something like this:

There's an extremely well documented (of the scientific kind) natural human bias for a slender physique. So I fixed your original statement for you.

A truly skilled master tailor can craft clothing that best flatters any body type. Those falling on the tails of that distribution curve will find it harder and more expensive to achieve that perfectly tailored fit. And even when they do, the natural human bias will kick in and say that the slender fit looks better.

And lest we be under any delusion, this bias is alive and well here on this thread and its predecessors -- as I've already remarked before. Don't get me wrong: It's possible for guys falling outside the slender ideal to get approval, and many have, but they've had to overcome an innate obstacle that those falling in the middle of the curve do not.
post #12635 of 43874
Word, GMMcL. Word.
post #12636 of 43874
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Really depends on the look you're going for, Stitchy.

Bear. Like likes like.
post #12637 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMMcL View Post



There's an extremely well documented (of the scientific kind) natural human bias for a slender physique. So I fixed your original statement for you.

A truly skilled master tailor can craft clothing that best flatters any body type. Those falling on the tails of that distribution curve will find it harder and more expensive to achieve that perfectly tailored fit. And even when they do, the natural human bias will kick in and say that the slender fit looks better.

And lest we be under any delusion, this bias is alive and well here on this thread and its predecessors -- as I've already remarked before. Don't get me wrong: It's possible for guys falling outside the slender ideal to get approval, and many have, but they've had to overcome an innate obstacle that those falling in the middle of the curve do not.
Thank you for the fine elucidation of my nonsensical hogwash. wink.gif
post #12638 of 43874

Haha yeah, betel is a good example of stuff looking pretty darn good even though he has an insane drop! I thought my drop 10 was big!

post #12639 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Really depends on the look you're going for, Stitchy.

puzzled.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

Haha yeah, betel is a good example of stuff looking pretty darn good even though he has an insane drop! I thought my drop 10 was big!

Betel looks to be in great shape. He is an example of a person with a more appealing physique.
post #12640 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Betel looks to be in great shape. He is an example of a person with a more appealing physique.

 

But a hideous personality.  He's a terrible human being.  Bites the heads off kittens and everything.

post #12641 of 43874

Mentioned this project a while back. In an attempt to fix my lapel-bowing problem (secondary to barrel chest - @jfrater take note) without going full bespoke, I purchased an OTR suit which was slightly too large for me. Had the shoulders narrowed, waist suppressed, sleeves shortened, pants taken in at the waist and hemmed with 5cm cuffs.  The suit is made by Sartore, fused construction, from a lovely soft VBC super-120's wool flannel which feels like cashmere.Total cost came to around US$1000 inclusive of alterations.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pretty happy on the whole, and the suit garnered some compliments today. It's a nice relaxed fit, less "constructed" than my Canalis and TFs (which are the only other suits I've found which don't exhibit lapel bowing in my size), and were it not for the fused construction, I'd say this was worth twice the price I paid.

 

Other items: shirt - MJ Bale, tie - Richard James, PS - Macclesfield silk, belt - Oxford, watch - Sea-Gull, shoes - GG Mayfair, briefcase - Brooks Brothers.

 

Right jacket sleeve is correct length IRL - just riding up in the first photo.

post #12642 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Mentioned this project a while back. In an attempt to fix my lapel-bowing problem (secondary to barrel chest - @jfrater
 take note) without going full bespoke, I purchased an OTR suit which was slightly too large for me. Had the shoulders narrowed, waist suppressed, sleeves shortened, pants taken in at the waist and hemmed with 5cm cuffs.  The suit is made by Sartore, fused construction, from a lovely soft VBC super-120's wool flannel which feels like cashmere.Total cost came to around US$1000 inclusive of alterations.



Pretty happy on the whole, and the suit garnered some compliments today. It's a nice relaxed fit, less "constructed" than my Canalis and TFs (which are the only other suits I've found which don't exhibit lapel bowing in my size), and were it not for the fused construction, I'd say this was worth twice the price I paid.

Other items: shirt - MJ Bale, tie - Richard James, PS - Macclesfield silk, belt - Oxford, watch - Sea-Gull, shoes - GG Mayfair, briefcase - Brooks Brothers.

Right jacket sleeve is correct length IRL - just riding up in the first photo.

Beautifully fitting suit! That looks really great and I love the tie! Incidentally - my tailor uses a little trick whereby he slightly rouches the fabric behind the lapel and bastes it in place - it fixes the bowing lapel problem incredibly well.
post #12643 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

Mentioned this project a while back. In an attempt to fix my lapel-bowing problem (secondary to barrel chest - @jfrater take note) without going full bespoke, I purchased an OTR suit which was slightly too large for me. Had the shoulders narrowed, waist suppressed, sleeves shortened, pants taken in at the waist and hemmed with 5cm cuffs.  The suit is made by Sartore, fused construction, from a lovely soft VBC super-120's wool flannel which feels like cashmere.Total cost came to around US$1000 inclusive of alterations.

 

 

 

Looks different to your other suits, not in a bad way.  I like the short hems on the trews but you won't get away with fun socks.

post #12644 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tried and True View Post

At some point you must decide if you want a physique built for tailored clothes or for the beach; suits or swim suits.

Sir, this comment is not necessary but thanks anyway for your contribution.
post #12645 of 43874
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Foxx View Post

Mcobinad-- Would be interested to see how something from boglioli looks on your frame-- or a wider lapel DB with softer shoulders. Really think your athletic build precludes you from any shoulder padding

Thanks for drawing my attention to Boglioli. I do have few accessories from Boglioli but have never bought any RTW suits from them. Will try them out and see if they have suits with well pronounced peak lapels but I guess the centre of focus should be the fit on the waist and shoulders.
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