Originally Posted by Claghorn
Given the arrival of @Kylerton, as well as the interesting sartorial implications of menswear on women, it seemed time for a thread dedicated to such.
At first, I thought there would be less of a need. Kylerton has like a 2 inch rise on hers. But perhaps a more traditional rise is more forgiving on wider hips? Diane Keaton seems to prefer a more traditional rise.
Narrower lapels for narrower shoulders. Wider lapels for a more masculine look/compensate for breasts? I guess it depends on what the dresser is going for. But bowing would seem to be an issue unless cut properly.
I noticed on one of her pictures that Kylerton's friends (who need to register) have a proper length whereas Kylerton's jackets are way too short (at least, for my relatively conservative tastes).
Pant Rise is an interesting subject when it comes to men's tailoring for women. A lot of our clients cannot purchase men's pants and have them tailored to fit because of the huge pant rise in men's pants. on average, women are shorter and therefore a 9-10 inch rise makes it look like they have an (for lack of a better word) penis pouch. Our clients tend towards a 7.5 - 8.5 inch rise. I prefer a 7.5 inch rise, given that the pants in my OP have WAY too short a rise as @Claghorn noticed (it's a 7inch and it cups VERY uncomfortably). Again, it depends on the proportions of the individual.
Agreed with you on lapels -- narrower lapels for narrower shoulders -- i generally give clients a 2.5 - 3.25 inch lapel depending on their point to point measurement.
As for Jacket length, I've been on a Thom Browne kick lately, hence the way too short jacket. My jacket lengths vary from 23 - 25" (24" seems to be my favorite) and I am 5'3 tall. I generally give clients the proper length, especially when they are trying to cover up larger cabooses.
I think CM is amazing and I love it, it is literally my life. I am trying to educate my clients more and teach them the ways, but there's always only so much I can do with female body types! Sometimes we have to make up our own rules when it comes to menswear on women, as Diane Keaton, Cate Blanchett, and so many other women have done since the dawn of time.
Here's a few photos:
Julie Andrews -- killing it like a boss
Ellen DeGeneres -- because duh.
The adorable Emma Watson
Plenty more photos to come, but I'm running out the door. Most importantly, I think point to point measurements, sleeve length, and lapel width are great starting points -- if those are incorrect the whole outfit looks unbalanced.