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Inside Vincent Nicolosi - Page 5

post #61 of 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zegnamtl View Post
Having met Despos only once, he is the only bespo tailor to date that I would put complete blind faith in.

Chris has made me two suits. I have never used another bespoke tailor and I never plan to. Chris takes pride in making a suit that fits its commisioner. Both of my suits from Chris fit perfectly and I can't imagine I'm the easiest guy to fit in the world.
I don't pretend to be able to speak for Chris, but I seriously doubt he would be happy taking payment for an ill-fitting garment. He's also not afraid to let the customer decide the details while still making the suit fit.
post #62 of 98
I have 2 bespoke suits, I never wear them...

The funny thing is that I have a near to the EUR48 standard measurements, only things I'm not standard is that I have a chest a bit wider ( 1"-1 1/4" ) and shorter inseam ( 1" ) other than that RTW fits me great.

So those 2 bespoke suits have the chest measurement right but I don't like them, they don't look right on me. my RTW suits fit me much better OTR.

Even once I took 2 suits in EUR 50 to a tailor that does bespoke to make a full fitting. the results are not wearable...

I asked precise inseam, sleeve lenght, shoulder and jacket lenght measurements.. the "bespoke" tailor jazzed up the measurements.. I think he did it because he wants to apply his own conception of proportions and dismissed mine because I am not an expert as he is. who knows.

The thing is I had enough with them. I even learned as a hobby to do alterations so now I do them myself.
post #63 of 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zegnamtl View Post
There is a great deal of truth in this Ed, for those of us who have, straight out of the gate, pretty straight forward bodies. I have never had a disaster with RTW.
I have with the little Bespoke I have tried, left a sour taste truth be told.
Have I obtained complete "fitting bliss"?
Remains to be seen this early in the experiment!


Mark S posted about a man he knows who gets three out of four bespoke perfect, the fourth being a dud, he accepts this ratio. It drives the cost WAY up and places it above the highest end RTW.

For those who have the knowledge and ability to communicate, and have found the ideal tailor, the workings of this may be grand, but it is a bumpy and expensive road of greater proportions than RTW for those with simple fitting issues.

Having met Despos only once, he is the only bespo tailor to date that I would put complete blind faith in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post
So if the two of you are to be believed (I'm not suggesting otherwise), and given the posted pic of that suit with the off shoulders, then Mr. Nicolosi is to be avoided at all costs given that you run the risk of spending $3-5,000 on an unwearable garment. So when I read these "why the hell would anyone spend $5,000 on a Kiton suit" posts, it's interesting how you never hear about the bespoke malfunctions that I am sure happen to more than are willing to admit (I remember reading a RL interview when RLPL was coming out and one of his reasons for the line was his misadventures with Savile Row bespoke). Anyway, my whole long winded point here is that say what you will about Kiton/Borreli or whoever what is undisputable is that when you walk out of the store with one of their suits, you are getting exactly what you want. If you fit well in one of their jackets/pants, there is a lot to be said for walking in, seeing exactly what you are getting and having a high quality wearable item almost immediately. Are there tailors that can do better for less?, absolutely but maybe not everyone wants to go on a "bespoke adventure" where you try different tailors and drop $10-15,000 on a few suits before finding the right tailor.

I concur on many points, I try to avoid getting stones thrown at me as bespoke/custom is put on such a pedestal that to question this forum unspoken sartorial utopia is to seek forum wrath from the esteemed elite pantheon, but between AA, SF and LL, I haven't been that impressed with many of the bespoke/custom items I've seen espeically for the excessive pricing. Even some of the very tailors who make the suits don't look sharp in their very own creations It would seem alot of people also are not picking custom tailors that design a suit that compliments their physique in addition to not demanding enough to achieve something that is near perfection. I'm curious of the estimated grand total Manton has spent on bespoke items? Is it safe to say over 50k, 100k?, or even more? It's easy to flash CUSTOM/BESPOKE I just bought and everyone RAVES because it's CUSTOM/BESPOKE, yet alot of understandable clandestine affairs with noble intentions say otherwise.

If you post custom why not put down what you paid for it to put it in perspective. For example, Geneva custom shirts are an incredible bargain in the custom shirt market. If Ed finds a Kiton that fits him incredible and he picks it up for under 1k? Why not celebrate this? If custom buyers are discarding bespoke items because they didn't work out/fit then I find it very misleading to give one the impression that bespoke/custom is so superior. IMO, Custom/Bespoke should always be near perfection or you should ask for your money back. Where is the cost/benefit ratio with custom? Yes, if funds are no limit, custom everything, but I think one should demand a great deal for this pricing structure. It would seem you need quite a satorial education to truly maximize your benefit from custom barring if you have an odd body shape, then there is obviously little choice otherwise. However, considering the average consumer has not the slightest idea perhaps it's the safest for the more selective of the masses. Perhaps clothing is like investing, the masses look like asses.

Am I knocking custom? No, I'm getting ready to do some custom dress shirts, which ironically enough will be designed by alot of trial and effort with RTW discounted dress shirts. Fit/Styling being king yet the discovery made with RTW. Would this ideal fitting/styling been achieved by just going custom? No. I had to try different brands, work with a tailor who's honest, and tells you that doesn't work, this does, a sparring of opinions etc. There are a host of variables and opinions, who's do you value and who's do you not? Developing one's style being a long road with no end in sight. To counter the bitter sardonic cynicism that endlessly pervades most forums, I say do what produces results and make it worth your money.
post #64 of 98
A poster (I can't remember who) once mentioned that even average bespoke often looks as good as expensive RTW/MTM. However, the wearer waited for 3 months and expected to look like James Bond and is, thus, rightfully very unhappy.

I agree with that statement - I think Manton's VC experience is not indicative of typical high-end bespoke (even on average pieces where the tailor hasn't done his best job). But when bespoke is done right, and often it is, it is immeasurably better than anything you can get RTW/MTM.
post #65 of 98

..


Edited by voxsartoria - 7/25/12 at 7:49pm
post #66 of 98
While Ed and Soph do have a pretty valid point between them, I'd add that people are a bit too quick to think they know everything about a suit from a couple of fair quality photos. It doesn't capture how the suit will move and wear or even something as fundamental as the feel of the fabric.

For instance, I'm definitely not a fan of the Nicolosi shoulder but having seen it in real life, I can say that it looks a lot better under normal circumstances than it does standing straight against a stark white background.

Personally I have gone back and forth between considering high end RTW picked up at a discount and lower end MTM. My problem is that I have yet to find a RTW jacket that will both feel comfortable and look good given my narrow, angled (crooked?) shoulders.
post #67 of 98
IMO, Manton has done a great job of giving Nicolosi a fair shake. There are some people who place an order, have it turn out poorly and then decide that the tailor is a retard and that all his customers are likewise.

For me, I've seen enough Nicolosi misfires to not want to take that risk but I don't think he's necessarily unskilled or a failure at his chosen profession.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
I wouldn't say that Vincent is to be avoided at all costs. He does a great job for some of my friends. Personally, I would not go back. But that doesn't mean that he is incapable of making a great suit. I think Dr. T overstates the case a little. Anyway, every tailor has a disgruntled client here or there, and every tailor produces kills. Yes, there is a risk with bespoke: you can't try on the garment before you buy it. But when it works, there is nothing like it.
post #68 of 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zegnamtl View Post

Having met Despos only once, he is the only bespo tailor to date that I would put complete blind faith in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad View Post
Chris has made me two suits. I have never used another bespoke tailor and I never plan to. Chris takes pride in making a suit that fits its commisioner. Both of my suits from Chris fit perfectly and I can't imagine I'm the easiest guy to fit in the world.
I don't pretend to be able to speak for Chris, but I seriously doubt he would be happy taking payment for an ill-fitting garment. He's also not afraid to let the customer decide the details while still making the suit fit.

Not to start a new vein of negativity, but has anybody had a really bad experience with Chris Despos? Seriously, I think I've only read quite positive things about him, his capabilities, and the final products, and there have been quite a few of these glowing comments. It seems a little odd -- but odd in a good way, of course -- that with all the bad things we've heard about some very big, established tailoring houses, Despos seems to be one of the few with blemish-free reputations. If this is in fact true, then good for him! Maybe when I finally get rich by teaching (*cough cough) I'll become a customer myself.
post #69 of 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teacher View Post
Not to start a new vein of negativity, but has anybody had a really bad experience with Chris Despos? Seriously, I think I've only read quite positive things about him, his capabilities, and the final products, and there have been quite a few of these glowing comments. It seems a little odd -- but odd in a good way, of course -- that with all the bad things we've heard about some very big, established tailoring houses, Despos seems to be one of the few with blemish-free reputations. If this is in fact true, then good for him! Maybe when I finally get rich by teaching (*cough cough) I'll become a customer myself.
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/f...62&postcount=2
Quote:
askandy: Never too early. I think at this point we can't count on Chuck Franke and I (personal opinion) would not be interested in having any thing to do with Chris Despos.
post #70 of 98
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post
I'd add that people are a bit too quick to think they know everything about a suit from a couple of fair quality photos.

True, and this is one of my pet peeves about the Internet. However, that Nicolosi suit actually looked better in pictures than it did in person.
post #71 of 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by LabelKing View Post

Andy may have an issue, but it has nothing to do with Chris's tailoring abilities.
post #72 of 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soph View Post
Andy may have an issue, but it has nothing to do with Chris's tailoring abilities.

It's strange that I never saw that thread on AAAC before. Like Soph said, whatever the Big Kahuna's beef is with Chris, it has nothing at all do with Chris's ability as a tailor. That's pretty a lame slam.
Aside from that Teach, I have never heard anything bad about Chris or Chris's work.
post #73 of 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soph View Post
Andy may have an issue, but it has nothing to do with Chris's tailoring abilities.


Andy's horrendous post says more about him then it does about Despos. He casually slams Despos, but only mentions that "we can't count" on Franco being there, a man who has defrauded many of the people that Andy led to him. What a lame ass. If he is direct, say exactly what the issue is and let Despos come on and defend himself if he so wishes.
post #74 of 98
Quote:
So if the two of you are to be believed (I'm not suggesting otherwise), and given the posted pic of that suit with the off shoulders, then Mr. Nicolosi is to be avoided at all costs given that you run the risk of spending $3-5,000 on an unwearable garment. So when I read these "why the hell would anyone spend $5,000 on a Kiton suit" posts, it's interesting how you never hear about the bespoke malfunctions that I am sure happen to more than are willing to admit (I remember reading a RL interview when RLPL was coming out and one of his reasons for the line was his misadventures with Savile Row bespoke). Anyway, my whole long winded point here is that say what you will about Kiton/Borreli or whoever what is undisputable is that when you walk out of the store with one of their suits, you are getting exactly what you want.

Interesting point Ed.

Quote:
A great tutorial is what Uppercase did on the LL.

Do you have a link Matt?
post #75 of 98
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