Originally Posted by Zegnamtl
There is a great deal of truth in this Ed, for those of us who have, straight out of the gate, pretty straight forward bodies. I have never had a disaster with RTW.
I have with the little Bespoke I have tried, left a sour taste truth be told.
Have I obtained complete "fitting bliss"?
Remains to be seen this early in the experiment!
Mark S posted about a man he knows who gets three out of four bespoke perfect, the fourth being a dud, he accepts this ratio. It drives the cost WAY up and places it above the highest end RTW.
For those who have the knowledge and ability to communicate, and have found the ideal tailor, the workings of this may be grand, but it is a bumpy and expensive road of greater proportions than RTW for those with simple fitting issues.
Having met Despos only once, he is the only bespo tailor to date that I would put complete blind faith in.
Originally Posted by edmorel
So if the two of you are to be believed (I'm not suggesting otherwise), and given the posted pic of that suit with the off shoulders, then Mr. Nicolosi is to be avoided at all costs given that you run the risk of spending $3-5,000 on an unwearable garment. So when I read these "why the hell would anyone spend $5,000 on a Kiton suit" posts, it's interesting how you never hear about the bespoke malfunctions that I am sure happen to more than are willing to admit (I remember reading a RL interview when RLPL was coming out and one of his reasons for the line was his misadventures with Savile Row bespoke). Anyway, my whole long winded point here is that say what you will about Kiton/Borreli or whoever what is undisputable is that when you walk out of the store with one of their suits, you are getting exactly what you want. If you fit well in one of their jackets/pants, there is a lot to be said for walking in, seeing exactly what you are getting and having a high quality wearable item almost immediately. Are there tailors that can do better for less?, absolutely but maybe not everyone wants to go on a "bespoke adventure" where you try different tailors and drop $10-15,000 on a few suits before finding the right tailor.
I concur on many points, I try to avoid getting stones thrown at me as bespoke/custom is put on such a pedestal
that to question this forum unspoken sartorial utopia is to seek forum wrath from the esteemed elite pantheon, but between AA, SF and LL, I haven't been that impressed with many of the bespoke/custom items I've seen espeically for the excessive pricing. Even some of the very tailors who make the suits don't look sharp in their very own creations It would seem alot of people also are not picking custom tailors that design a suit that compliments their physique in addition to not demanding enough to achieve something that is near perfection. I'm curious of the estimated grand total Manton has spent on bespoke items? Is it safe to say over 50k, 100k?, or even more? It's easy to flash CUSTOM/BESPOKE I just bought and everyone RAVES because it's CUSTOM/BESPOKE, yet alot of understandable clandestine affairs with noble intentions say otherwise.
If you post custom why not put down what you paid for it to put it in perspective. For example, Geneva custom shirts are an incredible bargain in the custom shirt market. If Ed finds a Kiton that fits him incredible and he picks it up for under 1k? Why not celebrate this? If custom buyers are discarding bespoke items because they didn't work out/fit then I find it very misleading to give one the impression that bespoke/custom is so superior. IMO, Custom/Bespoke should always be near perfection or you should ask for your money back. Where is the cost/benefit ratio with custom? Yes, if funds are no limit, custom everything, but I think one should demand a great deal for this pricing structure. It would seem you need quite a satorial education to truly maximize your benefit from custom barring if you have an odd body shape, then there is obviously little choice otherwise. However, considering the average consumer has not the slightest idea perhaps it's the safest for the more selective of the masses. Perhaps clothing is like investing, the masses look like asses.
Am I knocking custom? No, I'm getting ready to do some custom dress shirts, which ironically enough will be designed by alot of trial and effort with RTW discounted dress shirts. Fit/Styling being king yet the discovery made with RTW. Would this ideal fitting/styling been achieved by just going custom? No. I had to try different brands, work with a tailor who's honest, and tells you that doesn't work, this does, a sparring of opinions etc. There are a host of variables and opinions, who's do you value and who's do you not? Developing one's style being a long road with no end in sight. To counter the bitter sardonic cynicism that endlessly pervades most forums, I say do what produces results and make it worth your money.