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Standard & Strange - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 11

post #151 of 257
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottcw View Post


Just wanted to confirm, if I am a 36 in Tellason, I'd want a 38 in Ooe collab?

 

Measure your Tellasons laid flat at the waist, and let me know what you get, I can guide you from there.  If it's 19, then yes, and unfortunately, we're out of 38s.  If it's 18, then you're a 36.

post #152 of 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by StrangeJeremy View Post

Measure your Tellasons laid flat at the waist, and let me know what you get, I can guide you from there.  If it's 19, then yes, and unfortunately, we're out of 38s.  If it's 18, then you're a 36.

I get 18.25 when pulled taut.

post #153 of 257
Thread Starter 

I think the 36 could work for you.  They will relax to 18" laid flat after some wear.  Below are my size 36, 3 wears after their last wash, with a new 36 on top.

 

post #154 of 257
Thread Starter 

And to add to the flood of new denim for the shop, here's a little something from NYC

 

Posted Image

 

 

 

 

First up, the CT-120x - Classic Tapered in shadow selvedge:

 

Posted Image

 

Then, we couldn't not stock their best selling ST-100x:

 

Posted Image

 

post #155 of 257
Thread Starter 

There's a 34 in the Ooe Yofukuten collab jeans that just came back to us, and is now available.  This will likely be the last 34 for those for a while.

post #156 of 257
So with blatant disregard for S&S's motto, I decided to own more better things and did pick up the Ooe Yofukuten collab jeans. I ordered the 35s as a typical 34 trouser/33 denim (depending on the denim), with a measured waist a little over 35. Fit is great. Just snug to button to begin with and already stretching out comfortably.

I'd say these are retro jeans in every possible good way:
13.5 oz denim is a comfortable weight.
Just a little hairy to begin with and a classic blue color.
Cut is trim and the rise is definitely higher than standard now.
Construction is immaculate as advertised.

They are different without calling a lot of attention to themselves.

I'll post a fit photo soon.
post #157 of 257
Following up on @FrankCowperwood 's post, yeah, these are some killer jeans. I especially appreciate how they nailed all of the vintage details but without over doing things (too skinny, too heavy, exotic weave). True classics. Glad I got my pair!
post #158 of 257
Thread Starter 

Since we were already in Japan for the CC Show (clutch collection) we figured we should pop down and visit Ryo & Hiro of Ooe Yofukuten in Ichinomiya as it’s only 90 minutes from Tokyo. Towards the end of the day with them, I realized that they have the 43200G that we use in the shop for hemming, and I asked Hiro if I could have a go at it.

 

She made me practice on some cut-off pieces of legs until I was smooth on their machine, which was set up by Mr. Matsuoka (look him up.  Seriously.)

 

Once I greased the groove again, I borrowed the World Tour jeans to wear while I hemmed my pair of contest jeans on their 43200.  It was like butter, smoothest machine ever.   I kind of fudged the first hem, because I didn’t iron out the leg first, but after we pressed out the other leg, I nailed it.  I kept the fucked-up hem on my jeans as part of their story, rather than ripping it out and starting over.

 

Big lesson for the day - these machines can vary wildly in their feel based on who set them up, and how well maintained/tuned they are.  

 

Hiro taught me a better way to measure for the hem (mark off total off, then back off 2.4cm and mark again, rather than doing the math first):

SgEAMo8.jpg

 

In action:

cq6Zulj.jpg

 

The two hems. Top most is the first pass, without pressing; bottom is after pressing:

Mqu2P8z.jpg

post #159 of 257
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

Following up on @FrankCowperwood 's post, yeah, these are some killer jeans. I especially appreciate how they nailed all of the vintage details but without over doing things (too skinny, too heavy, exotic weave). True classics. Glad I got my pair!

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankCowperwood View Post

So with blatant disregard for S&S's motto, I decided to own more better things and did pick up the Ooe Yofukuten collab jeans. I ordered the 35s as a typical 34 trouser/33 denim (depending on the denim), with a measured waist a little over 35. Fit is great. Just snug to button to begin with and already stretching out comfortably.

I'd say these are retro jeans in every possible good way:
13.5 oz denim is a comfortable weight.
Just a little hairy to begin with and a classic blue color.
Cut is trim and the rise is definitely higher than standard now.
Construction is immaculate as advertised.

They are different without calling a lot of attention to themselves.

I'll post a fit photo soon.

 

Thanks guys! You totally get it: these jeans aren't about getting weird with the denim, or crazy fits, or flashy features.  They're the air-cooled 911 of denim.  Simple, rad, and you either get it; or you don't.

 

There's a bunch of hidden construction details and tricks in them that I'm not gonna call out - we'll call them denim-head easter eggs for those of you who are willing to dig a little into how denim workpants are stuck together.

post #160 of 257
Quote:
Originally Posted by StrangeJeremy View Post
 

Since we were already in Japan for the CC Show (clutch collection) we figured we should pop down and visit Ryo & Hiro of Ooe Yofukuten in Ichinomiya as it’s only 90 minutes from Tokyo. Towards the end of the day with them, I realized that they have the 43200G that we use in the shop for hemming, and I asked Hiro if I could have a go at it.

 

She made me practice on some cut-off pieces of legs until I was smooth on their machine, which was set up by Mr. Matsuoka (look him up.  Seriously.)

 

Once I greased the groove again, I borrowed the World Tour jeans to wear while I hemmed my pair of contest jeans on their 43200.  It was like butter, smoothest machine ever.   I kind of fudged the first hem, because I didn’t iron out the leg first, but after we pressed out the other leg, I nailed it.  I kept the fucked-up hem on my jeans as part of their story, rather than ripping it out and starting over.

 

Big lesson for the day - these machines can vary wildly in their feel based on who set them up, and how well maintained/tuned they are.  

 

Hiro taught me a better way to measure for the hem (mark off total off, then back off 2.4cm and mark again, rather than doing the math first):

 

 

wait- how do you measure that hem? 

post #161 of 257
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rusticchasm View Post
 

wait- how do you measure that hem? 

 

For example - if I have a customer who needs 6cm shorter, I would measure up from the hem to 6cm, then back down by 2.4cm for the seam allowance on the hem.  It gets folded over twice while going through the folder.

 

I also learned to cut one layer at a time instead of just trying to whack the entire end of the leg off in one go.


Edited by StrangeJeremy - 5/27/16 at 5:15pm
post #162 of 257
Thread Starter 

Lad5TGX.jpg

 

OOE X S&S RESTOCK

 

We just got a few sizes back in stock on the Ooe Yofukuten collabo jeans: 33,34,36

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post #163 of 257
So pronunciation guide for Ooe Yofukuten? I case anyone asks.

Edit: I am now following photos of sewing machines on IM. Odds of ever learning to use one no greater, though.
post #164 of 257
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankCowperwood View Post

So pronunciation guide for Ooe Yofukuten? I case anyone asks.

Edit: I am now following photos of sewing machines on IM. Odds of ever learning to use one no greater, though.

 

OA YO! FF-Ku-Ten.  

 

That make sense?   The first syllable of Yofukuten rhymes with loaf.

post #165 of 257
Thread Starter 

Question for you guys about buying clothes online:

 

For measurements on shirts and jeans, the first/most important one is the chest / waist.

 

We've been discussing whether we should be putting up our measurements as full, or laid-flat.

 

For example: Jeans 17", or 34"?  Shirts: 22" or 44"?

 

Thoughts?

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