I saw this shirt today at a thrift store with all of the hallmarks of the Neapolitan style--extra thick MOP buttons with the distinctive crow's foot stitch, hand-sewn buttonholes, sleeves attached by hand, a bit of showy handwork on the shoulder yoke, and small triangular side-gussets also with hand stitching. No label, but there was a size marker so I'm sure it's not bespoke. The only clue was a sort of embossed 'F' on the side gussets, much like the 'B' or 'LB' you would see on a Borrelli shirt. I actually recognized the original owner's initials on the inside, which makes me sure it's from a very fine maker; over the years I've seen many donated items from this individual, including dozens of jackets and suits from Pooles and more bespoke Charvet shirts than I would ever care to count. I actually passed on the shirt because the collar stance was just a bit too much for me, a very high-buttoning button-down with a very dramatic roll. My rule of thrift shopping karma is to leave it if it's not just right for you. But I am curious. And I did, however, pick up a beautiful bespoke silk dressing gown from Sulka. I've always wanted to see one of these and it is quite an amazing piece of work in a brown and red paisley with red piping.
post #1 of 10
7/20/04 at 8:04pm