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Vanson/Styleforum/Thurston Bros slim fit Japanese double rider MTO - Page 19

post #271 of 1431
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by canstyleace View Post

Based on this pic,

I think all it needs is smaller shoulder width and smaller armholes, that should take care of the extra material in the upper back & upper arm area, maybe take it in slightly at the midsection/navel area too

also idk why you guys are worried about it looking tight at the hem, isnt it going to have a 2-way front zip?

I would agree with taking material out of the back of the shoulders and the back.  But the arm holes are really high.  This dude is not at all big.  Check that first picture, and look carefully to see how high the arm holes are.  And he was wearing a tee.  You take any more out of the armhole, and it will cut off dudes's circulation.  Maybe we could slim the upper arm a bit as well, but unless you are an enemy of arms everywhere, don't tighten the arm hole any more.  

 

fwiw, though @Thurston Bros is not a fashion guy, I am, and have seen a lot of clothes from many designers.  And the thing is already slim through most of the body, even by "fashion" standards.  

post #272 of 1431
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post
 

I would agree with taking material out of the back of the shoulders and the back.  But the arm holes are really high.  This dude is not at all big.  Check that first picture, and look carefully to see how high the arm holes are.  And he was wearing a tee.  You take any more out of the armhole, and it will cut off dudes's circulation.  Maybe we could slim the upper arm a bit as well, but unless you are an enemy of arms everywhere, don't tighten the arm hole any more.  

 

fwiw, though @Thurston Bros is not a fashion guy, I am, and have seen a lot of clothes from many designers.  And the thing is already slim through most of the body, even by "fashion" standards.  


I know you weren't too jazzed on the Firenze leather...should we go with the Z150 leather?

 

We also need StyleForum.net members to come up with a "working list" of what they'd like to see...here's an example that we worked with on a pattern-variation from the Vanson Model C

 

1) no belt, no belt loops, and no coin pocket on lower abdomen
2) angled left forearm coin pocket, angled on forearm like it is on the VAJ-3 bicep
3) 5-5.5 inch chest pocket with 7 inch handwarmer pockets; chest pocket angled like on Aero 1930s Half Belt
4) no dropped back, back cut straight across
5) leather toggles (like on VAJ-3) on all exterior pocket ring pulls
6) no interior pockets
7) black rayon liner
8) Z150 leather
9) nickel hardware
10) please construct jacket with throat latch
11) please construct jacket snap-on / snap-off black mouton fur collar
12) double-ended main zipper
13) standard Vanson label
14) Ultra slimfit Japanese Fit with model C "action" back
15) size Large for prototype

 

It's always best to go off of an existing Vanson Model...the Vanson Model C or Highwayman are the base of most "rocker" designs...

 

We know a lot of suggestions have already been put forth, but a short working list, like that above, is a tremendous help!

post #273 of 1431
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

I would agree with taking material out of the back of the shoulders and the back.  But the arm holes are really high.  This dude is not at all big.  Check that first picture, and look carefully to see how high the arm holes are.  And he was wearing a tee.  You take any more out of the armhole, and it will cut off dudes's circulation.  Maybe we could slim the upper arm a bit as well, but unless you are an enemy of arms everywhere, don't tighten the arm hole any more.  

fwiw, though @Thurston Bros
 is not a fashion guy, I am, and have seen a lot of clothes from many designers.  And the thing is already slim through most of the body, even by "fashion" standards.  

I trust your judgment on this. I would like to see the upper arms made slightly slimmer. I suspect that may be necessary for balance's sake with the other tweaks being made.
post #274 of 1431
Thread Starter 

@Thurston Bros it would be great if you could show a photoshop (without the mouton collar) of the jacket envisioned.  I think that it would give people a good idea of how the proposed jacket would look, even if the photoshop is fairly crude.

 

And yeah, if I am going to "model" it, it needs to be a large.  The medium would strangle me.  As for the leather, yeah, let's go with the Z150 as the base leather.  I suppose that the Firenze is not horrible, but it did not hold a candle to the waxed blue Horween steerhide that I got on my Aero.  I suppose that it was going to be hard to beat that.

 

For the liner, is it possible to do a tartan liner in the body, with black rayon sleeve lining?

 

Cheers,

 

Fok.

post #275 of 1431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thurston Bros View Post


I know you weren't too jazzed on the Firenze leather...should we go with the Z150 leather?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thurston Bros View Post

No...however, we do have some full grain veg.-tanned horsehide on its way to us from Italy...we're definitely sending it to Aero for customer jackets, but we want to assess it for use on slimfit Vanson jackets as well!  The full grain veg.-tanned colors are Russet, Dark Seal, and Black...

what about the above for the leather?
post #276 of 1431
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinnedk View Post


what about the above for the leather?

Too expensive as the default option. It's over $400 for the leather alone. Might be viable if you are willing to pay for the additional material cost Plus the $50 upcharge.
post #277 of 1431
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

Too expensive as the default option. It's over $400 for the leather alone. Might be viable if you are willing to pay for the additional material cost Plus the $50 upcharge.

and regarding that leather option....
post #278 of 1431
does z150 = light comp, 2.5 oz, cxl hh ?
post #279 of 1431
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

Too expensive as the default option. It's over $400 for the leather alone. Might be viable if you are willing to pay for the additional material cost Plus the $50 upcharge.

but we could request it individually, correct? I wouldn't mind paying up if it's truly top quality stuff.
post #280 of 1431
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinnedk View Post

and regarding that leather option....

LOL
post #281 of 1431

I realize that was just a sample, but can we get at least one interior chest pocket?  I'd also prefer something other than leather for zipper pulls, I don't think leather toggles really go with the slim fashion jacket look.

post #282 of 1431
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinnedk View Post


and regarding that leather option....


Here's the full grain, veg.-tanned Russet...we're waiting on the full grain, veg.-tanned Dull Russet, Dark Seal Brown, and Black from Italy...Italy doesn't run on US time schedules, but we should have those by the end of May!

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), default quality

post #283 of 1431
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post
 

@Thurston Bros it would be great if you could show a photoshop (without the mouton collar) of the jacket envisioned.  I think that it would give people a good idea of how the proposed jacket would look, even if the photoshop is fairly crude.

 

And yeah, if I am going to "model" it, it needs to be a large.  The medium would strangle me.  As for the leather, yeah, let's go with the Z150 as the base leather.  I suppose that the Firenze is not horrible, but it did not hold a candle to the waxed blue Horween steerhide that I got on my Aero.  I suppose that it was going to be hard to beat that.

 

For the liner, is it possible to do a tartan liner in the body, with black rayon sleeve lining?

 

Cheers,

 

Fok.


I think it would be best for us to get a Prototype Sample and photograph it...we've already been working with Vanson on the design...

post #284 of 1431
Quote:
Originally Posted by canstyleace View Post

does z150 = light comp, 2.5 oz, cxl hh ?


Z150 is a lighter weight cowhide...for FQHH, we'll need to source from Italy...that's in the works!

 

Sorry that this whole process is taking a bit...we're so busy with orders this time of year and swamped with emails!

post #285 of 1431
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by canstyleace View Post

does z150 = light comp, 2.5 oz, cxl hh ?
I dunno, but it's the leather used on the inspiration jacket. Definitely not cxl, whicy scratches easily, on purpose.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian SD View Post

but we could request it individually, correct? I wouldn't mind paying up if it's truly top quality stuff.

I believe so, yes. I may go for that option myself.
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