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Vanson/Styleforum/Thurston Bros slim fit Japanese double rider MTO - Page 18

post #256 of 892


And few pictures from Seenmy jacket which was already posted to the thread:




In sleeve detail pic the leather looks amazing.
post #257 of 892
Isn't ours going to be very close to that last one? Bicep zip, hand-warmer pockets, belt-less with adjustors and no coin pocket.
post #258 of 892

^^^Doing that last jacket posted (two posts above) could be cool with no belt loops, more angled bicep coin pocket, black rayon liner, and chest pocket....

post #259 of 892
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian SD View Post

Isn't ours going to be very close to that last one? Bicep zip, hand-warmer pockets, belt-less with adjustors and no coin pocket.

Yes.  The back will be similar to the one in Seanmy's jacket.

 

Here are the fit pics for the body only (the model is obviously different):  The model is 5'10", 160 lbs, 30.5" waist, and a 37" chest.  In shape.

 

Imo, we can take in the back of the shoulders and the mid back a bit, but not much more.  Armholes, as you can see, are already quite high.  We do not want to slim up the arms much more than they are already.  This dude is wiry, not muscular.  Length is good for him.

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #260 of 892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuma View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


And few pictures from Seenmy jacket which was already posted to the thread:



In sleeve detail pic the leather looks amazing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian SD View Post

Isn't ours going to be very close to that last one? Bicep zip, hand-warmer pockets, belt-less with adjustors and no coin pocket.

I was under the impression it is
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thurston Bros View Post

^^^Doing that last jacket posted (two posts above) could be cool with no belt loops, more angled bicep coin pocket, black rayon liner, and chest pocket....

sounds neat as well
post #261 of 892
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post
 

Yes.  The back will be similar to the one in Seanmy's jacket.

 

Here are the fit pics for the body only (the model is obviously different):  The model is 5'10", 160 lbs, 30.5" waist, and a 37" chest.  In shape.

 

Imo, we can take in the back of the shoulders and the mid back a bit, but not much more.  Armholes, as you can see, are already quite high.  We do not want to slim up the arms much more than they are already.  This dude is wiry, not muscular.  Length is good for him.

 

 

 

 

 

 


In our experience, only about 5% of all slimfit customers want to go slimmer than this...do we want to go slimmer?  The Junya designs were slimmer...

 

Also, with a design this slim, we really can't go longer in the body because the jacket will get hung up on the hips...

post #262 of 892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thurston Bros View Post


In our experience, only about 5% of all slimfit customers want to go slimmer than this...do we want to go slimmer?  The Junya designs were slimmer...

Also, with a design this slim, we really can't go longer in the body because the jacket will get hung up on the hips...

Well the jacket fits him really well with the exception of the shoulder area which is too big. For me personally I would need it to be slimmer. For reference I am taller than the model and 20 lbs lighter, so obviously if I put the same jacket on as him, it'd be too large (as most American wear is), and the jacket is a size small, isn't it? I am what is a typical 46 for designers who design skinny/slim clothing, like most Japanese designers including Junya (obviously not Yohji Yamamoto). I would be one of the 5%.

You're definitely right about the length. It's perfect there and any longer and you wouldn't be able to zip it up correctly.

What is the checked lining like on the Derby jacket? Is it like a thick flannel, or is it like a quilted rayon? We talked earlier about doing rayon sleeves with quilted body. Is this something that is going to be possible?
post #263 of 892
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thurston Bros View Post
 


In our experience, only about 5% of all slimfit customers want to go slimmer than this...do we want to go slimmer?  The Junya designs were slimmer...

 

Also, with a design this slim, we really can't go longer in the body because the jacket will get hung up on the hips...

I think that the hips are fine.  In fact, the hips could be let out a slight bit.  However, I do think that we could tighten up the upper and mid back.  These jackets will never see the back of a motorcycle, and the extra space is therefore not necessary.  That's my opinion, but I'll let others chine in with theirs.  The primary function of this jacket will be to look good when someone is standing on the steps of store drinking a coffee and eating a bagel with lox.

post #264 of 892
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian SD View Post


Well the jacket fits him really well with the exception of the shoulder area which is too big. For me personally I would need it to be slimmer. For reference I am taller than the model and 20 lbs lighter, so obviously if I put the same jacket on as him, it'd be too large (as most American wear is), and the jacket is a size small, isn't it? I am what is a typical 46 for designers who design skinny/slim clothing, like most Japanese designers including Junya (obviously not Yohji Yamamoto). I would be one of the 5%.

You're definitely right about the length. It's perfect there and any longer and you wouldn't be able to zip it up correctly.

What is the checked lining like on the Derby jacket? Is it like a thick flannel, or is it like a quilted rayon? We talked earlier about doing rayon sleeves with quilted body. Is this something that is going to be possible?

He is about the same size as you up top.  He is a serious biker (edit: cyclist), so a lot his his weight is in his legs.  As you know, weight is not distributed equally with other people.  I am the same size as some dudes who are 15 lbs light than me, for this same reason.  My legs are much larger than my upper body usually suggests (though, these days, it's catching up, and not always in the best ways).

post #265 of 892
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

Yes.  The back will be similar to the one in Seanmy's jacket.

Here are the fit pics for the body only (the model is obviously different):  The model is 5'10", 160 lbs, 30.5" waist, and a 37" chest.  In shape.

Imo, we can take in the back of the shoulders and the mid back a bit, but not much more.  Armholes, as you can see, are already quite high.  We do not want to slim up the arms much more than they are already.  This dude is wiry, not muscular.  Length is good for him.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

















The jacket looks good on this guy with a few minor tweaks it could be even better. Each individual jacket will be catered to our measurements right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian SD View Post

Well the jacket fits him really well with the exception of the shoulder area which is too big. For me personally I would need it to be slimmer. For reference I am taller than the model and 20 lbs lighter, so obviously if I put the same jacket on as him, it'd be too large (as most American wear is), and the jacket is a size small, isn't it? I am what is a typical 46 for designers who design skinny/slim clothing, like most Japanese designers including Junya (obviously not Yohji Yamamoto). I would be one of the 5%.

You're definitely right about the length. It's perfect there and any longer and you wouldn't be able to zip it up correctly.

What is the checked lining like on the Derby jacket? Is it like a thick flannel, or is it like a quilted rayon? We talked earlier about doing rayon sleeves with quilted body. Is this something that is going to be possible?

what is the length? I am hoping >=25 at least
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

I think that the hips are fine.  In fact, the hips could be let out a slight bit.  However, I do think that we could tighten up the upper and mid back.  These jackets will never see the back of a motorcycle, and the extra space is therefore not necessary.  That's my opinion, but I'll let others chine in with theirs.  The primary function of this jacket will be to look good when someone is standing on the steps of store drinking a coffee and eating a bagel with lox.

I agree back can be tighter and hips maybe a bit looser. I worry that if this gets into japanese sizing that it will cut me out of the group buy.
post #266 of 892
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

He is about the same size as you up top.  He is a serious biker, so a lot his his weight is in his legs.  As you know, weight is not distributed equally with other people.  I am the same size as some dudes who are 15 lbs light than me, for this same reason.  My legs are much larger than my upper body usually suggests (though, these days, it's catching up, and not always in the best ways).

True, if he has bulk in his lower body from biking, then that will skew the weight distribution quite a bit. Though even disregarding the difference in body size, I'd still want the jacket to be slimmer than it is in that photo. I think it could just do with being more close-fitting overall - narrow shoulders/upper back, slightly in at the waist, and as you said it could actually be let out a tad in the hip area. Looking at the last pic, it's quite tight around the hem, but go up a few inches to the middle back/waist area and there's quite a lot of excess that could be trimmed off.

I mean it looks like it's meant for riding. With the way you hold your arms on a bike, you'd appreciate that V shape, where the tightest area is just above the belt, and the shoulders/upper back are nice and roomy. However as you said it'll likely be worn by Sartorialist photo-bombers, or while sitting around at cafe tables. You don't need all that extra leather just to stare at your cell phone and pass silent judgments on whichever hipsters you deem less cool than yourself who walk through the door.
post #267 of 892

The junya analogue doesn't appear a million miles away. As said the mid back and shoulders are the main tweaking points, albeit by very little, the sleeves and lengths look good. 

post #268 of 892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vordhosbn1 View Post
 

The junya analogue doesn't appear a million miles away. As said the mid back and shoulders are the main tweaking points, albeit by very little, the sleeves and lengths look good. 


^^^This guy needs a better helmet!

 

*

post #269 of 892
Based on this pic,

I think all it needs is smaller shoulder width and smaller armholes, that should take care of the extra material in the upper back & upper arm area, maybe take it in slightly at the midsection/navel area too

also idk why you guys are worried about it looking tight at the hem, isnt it going to have a 2-way front zip?
post #270 of 892
Quote:
Originally Posted by canstyleace View Post

Based on this pic,

I think all it needs is smaller shoulder width and smaller armholes, that should take care of the extra material in the upper back & upper arm area, maybe take it in slightly at the midsection/navel area too

also idk why you guys are worried about it looking tight at the hem, isnt it going to have a 2-way front zip?

Not worried just wanna cover all angles so were completely satisfied.
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