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Vanson/Styleforum/Thurston Bros slim fit Japanese double rider MTO - Page 80

post #1186 of 1505
Thread Starter 
uote:
Originally Posted by Thurston Bros View Post

 

We have to name the jacket a name that's consistent with the style-cluster that we're dealing with.  We're creating a range of slimfit Vanson designs that will be named Viper, Daredevil, Bullseye (we're still debating this name a bit), SheDevil, and Villainess.

Oh, well, if we are going to go full nerd, let's at least do this right.  I think that "The Stick" will be both descriptive of the jacket, and appeal to comic book nerds, alike.  I also feel that.  I think that the beefier version of the jacket should be named "The Bushwacker",  The really big version of the jacket should obviously be "The Kingpin."

 

Re, fits - I would allow Thurston to make the adjustments, guys.  They had the actual sample, and have experience adjusting leather patterns.  I think that we have given pretty good ideas on what we'd like the jacket to look like worn, both verbally and through pictures.  ime, unless you are pretty experienced with pattern making/adjusting, micromanaging at the level of "it should be slimmer by 1" as opposed to "I'd like the jacket to be slimmer through the shoulders", especially remotely over the net, is generally an ill-advised idea.

 

International fit jacket - imo, completely worth the additional cost.  It's $60 to ensure a jacket that actually fits you (you would pay the duties regardless).  I am in the States, but I would definitely not skimp on the extra money to get things dialed in.

post #1187 of 1505
Quote:
Originally Posted by Distorbiant View Post
 

 

You said it was 18.75 for large a week ago...

Yes we did, but we changed our mind...

post #1188 of 1505
Thread Starter 

Guys, I have never tried on the Junya jacket, but I have tried on several derbies, and while they feel great, on my not huge 5'11", 175-180 lb frame, the 40 made me look like a linebacker.  It's really built up through the shoulders.  I think that it's meant to take armor underneath.  The vast majority of us won't need that extra room.

post #1189 of 1505
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

Re, fits - I would allow Thurston to make the adjustments, guys.  They had the actual sample, and have experience adjusting leather patterns.  I think that we have given pretty good ideas on what we'd like the jacket to look like worn, both verbally and through pictures.  ime, unless you are pretty experienced with pattern making/adjusting, micromanaging at the level of "it should be slimmer by 1" as opposed to "I'd like the jacket to be slimmer through the shoulders", especially remotely over the net, is generally an ill-advised idea.

Very good advice, IMO.
post #1190 of 1505
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thurston Bros View Post
 


We took a good look at the shoulder-to-shoulder measurements of the Junya range and feel that a significantly slimmer upper back is the way to go...we're choosing an upper back profile that's consistent with really popular vintage jackets and awesome new fits, such as the Aero Board Racer.  We went from 1" decrease to 2" decrease in the upper back after some good thought and deliberation...

Thanks for the response Thurston Bros.  Makes sense now. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

 

 

Re, fits - I would allow Thurston to make the adjustments, guys.  They had the actual sample, and have experience adjusting leather patterns.  I think that we have given pretty good ideas on what we'd like the jacket to look like worn, both verbally and through pictures.  ime, unless you are pretty experienced with pattern making/adjusting, micromanaging at the level of "it should be slimmer by 1" as opposed to "I'd like the jacket to be slimmer through the shoulders", especially remotely over the net, is generally an ill-advised idea.

FWIW, I was mainly trying to understand the change, not criticize, as 1" in the shoulders is fairly significant - though my post probably didn't come across like that.  

post #1191 of 1505
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

Oh, well, if we are going to go full nerd, let's at least do this right.  I think that "The Stick" will be both descriptive of the jacket, and appeal to comic book nerds, alike.  I also feel that.  I think that the beefier version of the jacket should be named "The Bushwacker",  The really big version of the jacket should obviously be "The Kingpin."

lets not geek out too much, call it Viper
post #1192 of 1505

20" is too wide.

18" is too narrow.

 

T_T

post #1193 of 1505
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Distorbiant View Post

20" is too wide.
18" is too narrow.

T_T

You'll see that you are wrong. Fit pics from Synth to come soon. 18" is about perfect on an L, judging from the fit pics I saw.
post #1194 of 1505

I eagerly await to be disproven...

post #1195 of 1505
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thurston Bros View Post


Length is always from the collar seam, down the back, to the bottom hem.  Shoulder-to-shoulder is always shoulder seam to shoulder seam, across the upper back.  Pit-to-pit is across the front of the jacket, underarm to underarm.  All measurements are always with the jacket completely flat...

Are you guys talking about the shoulder to shoulder measurement measured in the same way?
post #1196 of 1505
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post


You'll see that you are wrong. Fit pics from Synth to come soon. 18" is about perfect on an L, judging from the fit pics I saw.

whats the chest measurement for an L?

post #1197 of 1505
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbnman View Post
 

whats the chest measurement for an L?

 

iirc 22.75...

post #1198 of 1505
Quote:
Originally Posted by Distorbiant View Post
 

 

iirc 22.75...

 

I agree, shoulders are too small for a jacket with P2P of 22.75.  Shoulders should be in the range of 18.75 to 19".

 

Looking forward to seeing the fit pics, especially of one with the jacket zipped up. 

post #1199 of 1505

Cutting the new pattern today!

post #1200 of 1505
Hey Guys,

Fok sent the prototype of the SF x Vanson x Thurston Bros. double-rider jacket (there’s a mouthful) my way about two weeks ago, and it was supposed to accompany me on a sort of bizarre trip through Sweden. It was all set to arrive well before I left the country - and then USPS happened. Briefly, through a confluence of incompetences, it was lost; when I took my delivery slip to the post office, the matter-of-fact ladies told me it was nowhere to be found (this was after I’d driven there a second time - the first time, the truck was “running late”) - they thought maybe it could be because there was a “substitute mailman” (the mind boggles) who had done…something…on the delivery date; the substitute mailman either didn’t remember - or, more likely - had no idea what anyone was talking about. At any rate, the jacket didn’t make it to Sweden, and I consider it very lucky that it showed up four or five days later as though nothing had happened. My girlfriend opened the package while I was away, and I could almost hear her nose turning up when she texted me that it “smells like leather.” It does. Very strongly. 

Anyway, I’ve finally gotten a chance to come back and play dress-up for a while, and I think that most people are going to appreciate the changes that have already been suggested. Even on my 6’1, gibbon-armed frame, the sleeves are a touch long - they would be perfect if I owned a motorcycle, although as my only engagement with people on motorcycles is getting frustrated when old people on Goldwings drive really slowly in the left lane, some shortening would be good. Same goes for the revised shoulder measurements - a 19.5” shoulder is generally what I look for in things that fit me, and the measurement is definitely “right” for my body. But the excess material in the shoulder gives the jacket a boxier shape, and also has the effect of creating a large armhole - not a bad thing at all, but, as Fuuma has already pointed out, this is a fashion jacket for people who are going to be sitting around in it drinking overpriced coffee. Right now it looks very much like a biker jacket. 

Okay, other stuff to note: The leather (z150) is serious business. I have no desire to go up in weight. It’s stiff, it’s thick, and I desperately want to see what it looks like in a year or two (I mean, we’ve seen, but, like, I want to see). The construction reflects that: the seams are thick, the zippers are heavy, and I would be interested in shaking the hand of the sewing machine responsible for the work. If you are looking for supple, baby’s-bottom lamb leather, look elsewhere, because Wilson’s leather this is not. It is excellent. I love the way you can grab it and squeeze it and sort of mold it into place the way you like. Really, really cool. So is the bicep pocket, and so is my favorite detail, which is the angled interior pocket on the left side (there’s a standard pocket on the inside right). I like pockets. A lot.

Overall, the jacket, as it stands, is cool in the way that the Terminator is cool, or that power metal is cool (it is). It’s going to be even cooler. Did I mention how great the leather is? Can you imagine how it’s going to cord around you elbows and crease at the places where you tug the collar up at night? How the leather at the cuffs will dull from years and years of use? Picture it now: custom fit, custom patch, custom liner - we’re going to be like the kids in “Stress” before Justice got, like, totally irrelevant. No - cooler than that. Or maybe high-octane living isn’t your style. Maybe you’ll own it for forty years and walk down the same street to the cafe every morning; you’ll pull a well-worn scarf around your neck when it’s cold, and the only battle you’ll do is with the paper and a cappuccino. Regardless of what sort of scraps you think you might find yourself in, this is going to be a jacket that’ll have your back for a very long time. I can’t wait to see the final product.



I took lots and lots (and lots) of pictures, and have included a similar number of photos below:




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I also gave it the Shiba Test (the most important test):
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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The other one was not impressed (she is never impressed) with my endless preening, and chose to sleep on her favorite toy instead:

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