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Largest ready-to-wear suit brand review (44 brands) by Parisian Gentleman [Updated] - Page 2

post #16 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuttingboard View Post

Very good read, thank you! I would be interested to hear what you have to say about Samuelsohn.

Sonya, if you don't mind, I think I will take this one.

Full disclosure: I once worked for Samuelsohn and I now work for the company that owned Hickey Freeman until we recently sold it to Samuelsohn. So while my opinion may not be completely impartial, it is at least informed (in other words, they are my competitor).

Samuelsohn is perhaps unmatched in the value/price formula on the market. With workmanship on relative par with Canali but at a substantially lower price, it's one of the most under-appreciated brands around.

Run by feuding twin septuagenarian brothers for far too long, the company was sold a few years ago to an investment firm that has been assembling a new management team, including Arnold Brant, Darrel Henson (one of the best merchandisers in the business) and Caruso's former quality man. They have rejuvenated the offering and increased the capacity if the factory to meet current market challenges, namely the high Canadian dollar. For many years an exchange rate of about $0.65 USD to the Canadian dollar meant that Canadian manufacturers had a huge advantage against their American competitors on the Us market but that advantage has been erased. Still in their favor, though, is the fact that Protectionist policies still levy import duties of up to 17% on certain raw materials (cashmere for example) which Canadian manufacturers don't pay- this is particularly stupid when one considers that there are no more mills producing woolens in the US so the duties protect nobody while penalizing American clothing manufacturers. Ahem.

Business considerations aside, Samuelsohn also produces the private label programs for Harry Rosen and Paul Stuart, considered by many to be among the best men's stores on either side of the border. Now that they also own Hickey Freeman (sniff) I am eager to see how they position both brands.
post #17 of 76
This is very impressive, guys.
post #18 of 76
Good work, bravo!
post #19 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

Sonya, if you don't mind, I think I will take this one.

Full disclosure: I once worked for Samuelsohn and I now work for the company that owned Hickey Freeman until we recently sold it to Samuelsohn. So while my opinion may not be completely impartial, it is at least informed (in other words, they are my competitor).

Samuelsohn is perhaps unmatched in the value/price formula on the market. With workmanship on relative par with Canali but at a substantially lower price, it's one of the most under-appreciated brands around.

Run by feuding twin septuagenarian brothers for far too long, the company was sold a few years ago to an investment firm that has been assembling a new management team, including Arnold Brant, Darrel Henson (one of the best merchandisers in the business) and Caruso's former quality man. They have rejuvenated the offering and increased the capacity if the factory to meet current market challenges, namely the high Canadian dollar. For many years an exchange rate of about $0.65 USD to the Canadian dollar meant that Canadian manufacturers had a huge advantage against their American competitors on the Us market but that advantage has been erased. Still in their favor, though, is the fact that Protectionist policies still levy import duties of up to 17% on certain raw materials (cashmere for example) which Canadian manufacturers don't pay- this is particularly stupid when one considers that there are no more mills producing woolens in the US so the duties protect nobody while penalizing American clothing manufacturers. Ahem.

Business considerations aside, Samuelsohn also produces the private label programs for Harry Rosen and Paul Stuart, considered by many to be among the best men's stores on either side of the border. Now that they also own Hickey Freeman (sniff) I am eager to see how they position both brands.

My take as well. Thanks Jefferyd!!
post #20 of 76
Maybe add Cucinelli?
post #21 of 76

A great insider review to rely upon. Thanks, Jeffreyd and I wish we had asked you to participate sooner than a mere two days prior to publication.

 

Trying to settle on how to format future reviews---add to the current 39 brand list or or do a part 2 (thoughts, anyone?). Either way, with your permission, we would like to integrate your review on Samuelsohn (whom as far as we know still cuts-makes-trims for Paul Stuart). Btw, are the Soft and Ivory Samuelsohn collections different or the same in level of quality in your view? I have no idea.

post #22 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by vis-a-Glyn View Post

A great insider review to rely upon. Thanks, Jeffreyd and I wish we had asked you to participate sooner than a mere two days prior to publication.

Trying to settle on how to format future reviews---add to the current 39 brand list or or do a part 2 (thoughts, anyone?). Either way, with your permission, we would like to integrate your review on Samuelsohn (whom as far as we know still cuts-makes-trims for Paul Stuart). Btw, are the Soft and Ivory Samuelsohn collections different or the same in level of quality in your view? I have no idea.

Adding to the existing reviews to create a comprehensive list would be most useful.
post #23 of 76
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vis-a-Glyn View Post

A great insider review to rely upon. Thanks, Jeffreyd and I wish we had asked you to participate sooner than a mere two days prior to publication.

Trying to settle on how to format future reviews---add to the current 39 brand list or or do a part 2 (thoughts, anyone?). Either way, with your permission, we would like to integrate your review on Samuelsohn (whom as far as we know still cuts-makes-trims for Paul Stuart). Btw, are the Soft and Ivory Samuelsohn collections different or the same in level of quality in your view? I have no idea.

I would update the existing one as well and simply write an update post to tell readers that the original list has some new reviews

Makes me think that I have to write some more for the next edition smile.gif
post #24 of 76

Epic post and highly informative.  Thank you Dirnelli, Paul, Hugo, Sonya, Bruce, Benoit, and Ville for the excellent reviews, and for all of the hard work and thought that went into them.

post #25 of 76
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

Great write up but this needs to be fixed

"LIVERANO & LIVERANO

The most Japanese of Neapolitan houses"

FWIW -- Liverano is from Florence not Naples.
post #26 of 76
Thanks gentleman. This is extraordinary.
post #27 of 76
What a wonderful resource and wealth of information! Glad to see not wasting content on Boss, Armani. J.Crew and the like, and instead bringing to light under-appreciated brands of which I'm a fan like Lardini, Boggi, Sartoria Partenopea and Ma.Co (although you sure covered quite a few Caruso-made brands!). Noticeably absent are brands that are often mentioned on the forum: Hickey Freeman, Cucinelli, Loro Piana, Stile Latino, Sartorio and Borrelli... not that we're getting greedy, but it would be nice to have your perspective/insights on some of these? And while I'm asking, Castangia and La Vera would be nice too! biggrin.gif
post #28 of 76
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

What a wonderful resource and wealth of information! Glad to see not wasting content on Boss, Armani. J.Crew and the like, and instead bringing to light under-appreciated brands of which I'm a fan like Lardini, Boggi, Sartoria Partenopea and Ma.Co (although you sure covered quite a few Caruso-made brands!). Noticeably absent are brands that are often mentioned on the forum: Hickey Freeman, Cucinelli, Loro Piana, Stile Latino, Sartorio and Borrelli... not that we're getting greedy, but it would be nice to have your perspective/insights on some of these? And while I'm asking, Castangia and La Vera would be nice too! biggrin.gif

 

Fear not, most of the ones you mentioned should be covered in the round 2

post #29 of 76
Well covered.

I would love to see a scouting report on Berluti's made to measure and bespoke services at Arny's.
post #30 of 76
Thank you very much for taking the time to create such an informative thread.
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