Dirnelli (Dirnelli.tumblr.com) and I (paul-lux.tumblr.com) have contributed to this extensive review and are very happy to hear your thoughts. Don't expect outstanding writing skills from me though
++ : Decent suits for a low price, lots of variety in terms of cuts and fabrics, good customer service.
- – : You might want to visit one of the shops (in the UK) to try on a suit first hand and check your size, even though the online shop and return policies are very reliable.
++ : Lots of style to chose from, good quality of construction for the price tag.
- – : The slightly (too) short trousers… a house “trademark” it would seem.
++ : Excellent value-for-money on a wide range of suits, shirts & accessories.
- – : Construction quality is not to the highest standard and alterations are not included in the price.
++ : Very affordable prices for contemporary Neapolitan styling done with provocative fabric choices.
- – : Hard to find, as the brand is still quite confidential, with only 3 shops (Madrid, Bilbao and now Paris.)
++ : Well adapted for the tall or larger gentlemen. Good value for money.
- – : Cuts can be wide, and all in all, fairly conventional
++ : Great value for money, great styling, quality of construct, and fabric choices.
- – : Difficult to find outside Soragna (Parma).
++ : Good value for money, lots of choices, some particularly nice pieces to handpick each season for the sharp eye.
- – : Not as charming as it once was, quality of construct could be better.
++ : Extremely clean silhouettes, gorgeous double-breasted suits.
- – : The back-cut of the jacket may be too short for the Non-Pop Suit lover. What a pity…
++ : As comfortable as comfortable gets, truly stylish casual chic.
- – : Can be expensive.
++ : Serious products, well assembled, with a plain (but still Italian) style.
- – : Almost too plain sometimes.
++ : The suits are well made, with the very British flair that made the house famous.
- – : Very small collections with limited choice.
++ : A very personal style that gets better and better with each passing collections. Lots of flair.
- – : Short collections. Sometimes a lack of choice.
++ : Quality-made classic style cut in nice fabrics. A very safe choice.
- – : Only available in London or online.
++ : Great tailoring, styling, fabrics and prices.
- – : The marketing is completely wrong-headed compared to the underlying value proposition of the brand .
++ : Excellent Italian/British flair, Phineas Cole line is full of personality. A serious product.
- – : Still hard to come by – only three stores (New York & Chicago) and a few selected points of sale in Japan.
++ : Excellent value. The suits are so well made that even a size up or down your regular size might seem to fit you perfectly.
- – : A Caruso suit retails for 1 to 4 times its price depending on the brand who sells it.
++ : The least expensive Caruso suit on the market; handmade Milanese buttonhole on all suits.
- – : Loro Piana fabrics exclusively, which can be delicate at times.
++ : A safe bet. Nice silhouette including lots of hand finishing with a quality look and feel.
- – : Outrageous prices, product is at times too recognizable.
+ + : A very elegant, contemporary, well-made and comfortable suit.
- – : Mostly delicate fabrics.
++ : Great suits with many steps made by hand.
- – : Some unfortunate fabric choices at times.
++ : Classic, well-made, no mistakes in styling or tailoring.
- – : Fabrics choices can be completely wrong sometimes.
+ + : A great way to dip your toes in the Cifonelli waters without breaking your piggy bank.
- – : The RTW style is different from the bespoke cut.
+ + : Nice cuts, always a safe choice. The classic fishmouth lapel, trademark of Parisian bespoke
- – : Some very gaudy fabrics in each collection…
++ : High quality classic suits worth the effort to investigate
- – : Prices that can vary wildly. Huge gaps in quality between the different price ranges. A great brand but that one should navigate carefully.
++ : Great styling and fit and fabrics, a great Neapolitan RTW brand.
- – : Lack of distribution and still a relatively high price.
++ : Great DB suit main line, nice construction designs and stylistic fabric/pattern combinations.
- – : Notice jacket collar height
++ : Superb product.
- – : Almost impossible to find.
H. HUNTSMAN & SONS
++ : Legendary tweed. Beautifully made.
- – : Huntsman has been known to be the most expensive house on the Row, and their RTW line lives up to that reputation.
LIVERANO & LIVERANO
++ : Extremely clean chest and overall shape, Milanese buttonhole, strong style statement.
- – : Expensive, watch out for the occasional collar gap or shoulder line issue. Work out often.
++ : Genuine quality, many handmade operations.
- – : Very conservative and expensive.
++ : The cuts, fabrics and overall quality is astounding…
- – : … but so is the price.
++ : Extreme quality. Extremely good service.
- – : Stratospheric prices, (understandably) hard to justify for a traditional clientele.
++ : Amazing contemporary Italian styling that’s hard to find outside of bespoke.
- – : Stratospheric Prices.
EDE & RAVENSCROFT
++ : Good value for money, very nice tweeds, british design of good taste
— : Some products might fit slightly larger than what some of you are accustomed to
++ : Exceptional fabrics, beautifully made products, light and comfortable canvassing
— : Expensive
++ : Beautifully made suits in luxurious materials
— : Some fabrics are a bit too gaudy, and the styling is very very classic.
Edited by SeamasterLux - 4/28/14 at 4:58am