One of the most frustrating parts of attending Capsule and Market (or really any fashion tradeshow) is when you’re told that you can’t talk about or photograph something awesome. I understand – I really do – where brands are coming from: they’re showing samples at a show six or seven months before clothing will be produced and delivered to stores, and they’re worried about competitors knocking them off (and actually beating them to retail), but goddamn it’s frustrating. It’s like you just saw the season finale of next season’s The Walking Dead, and you can’t tell anyone about what exciting twist comes next because of some pesky Non-Disclosure Agreement.
And this brings me to two forum favorites: S.N.S. Herning and Nigel Cabourn. I was lucky enough to see the Fall/Winter 2014 lineups for both brands, but unfortunately I’m limited in what I can say and what I can show. Both brands have agreed to allow some limited coverage – in the case of S.N.S. Herning I can show pictures and talk about three pieces, and with Cabourn I can show rack shots of their collection – but the full lineups are amazing, and you’re all going to be blown away when they hit retail stores in August.
Fall/Winter has always been S.N.S. Herning’s strongest season – heavyweight wool sweaters do not fare particularly well during the spring and summer – and this year is no exception. While I wasn’t struck by any new sweater designs, as always they have a great lineup of new wool knit mixes. I was lucky enough to photograph three of their releases: a Stark in blue static mix, a Fisherman full zip in metallic forest mix and a pair of their new woo trousers in white noise mix.
The trousers were the most interesting item at the Herning booth at Capsule this season, and are a strange mix between dress pant and sweatpant, made in a medium-weight wool knit with a zip fly and welt pockets. The pants are half-lined for comfort, and I’m a little unsure how they’ll fair in the retail market lace. Personally, I liked them a lot, if only because they’d let me live out my long held fantasy of looking like a post-Apocalyptic Eskimo wandering the barren wasteland of a frozen Detroit.
I was also excited at a chance to see Nigel Cabroun’s F/W 2014 lineup. Cabourn actually brought two collections to Capsule: a preview of his upcoming collaboration with Filson, as well as his mainline collection, which, for next Fall, consists of classic, popular pieces in a new fabrics rather than entirely new designs. Although I can’t provide any photograph evidence, you can take my word that when seen close-up the Mallory designs are great, and the Fair Isle sweaters look bulletproof. My pick, though, is a forest green wool topcoat with leather shoulder patches.
The Cabourn x Filson pieces were killer as well. Produced in Filson’s factories in Seattle, Washington, the pieces are inspired by vintage workwear and rendered through Cabourn’s patented attention to detail and unique aesthetic direction. Consisting of mostly outerwear, the collection includes several Mackinaw-style jackets produced in Filson’s tincloth, and one extremely heavyweight, unlined fur and leather four-pocket jacket. Pricing, unfortunately, will be closer to Cabourn’s usual fair than standard Filson.
Nigel Cabourn x Filson
Nigel Cabourn Mainline
Nigel Cabourn Mainline