Jacket collar won't hug

Do members have any recommendations for instructions to tailor for jacket which doesn't gape but just wont hug as I would like. Are such alterations ever really successful?

Originally Posted by il vecchio

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Do members have any recommendations for instructions to tailor for jacket which doesn't gape but just wont hug as I would like. Are such alterations ever really successful?

It sounds to me that the tailor needs to either raise the collar or shorten it. Quite common and do-able.

Gary

I have the opposite on one of my jackets. Collar feels too tight across the neck. Is it possible to "let out" the collar for less pressure?

I would say you need to have the collar shortened or lowered, any tailor shoudl be able to accomodate that for you. Also yes if the collar is too tight you can have it let out some.

If it's a balance problem, then it will be complicated to fix. If it's just off your neck a hair, then the collar can either be shrunk in back with an iron, or removed, cut a bit smaller, and sewn back on.

I have this problem with most of my suits as I have a rounded back and a pronounced stoop. It's a bugger to fix.

Originally Posted by Winot

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I have this problem with most of my suits as I have a rounded back and a pronounced stoop. It's a bugger to fix.

Very likely a balance problem then.

Originally Posted by MAnton

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Very likely a balance problem then.

tis true

got it 95% fixed but not good enough.

Originally Posted by MAnton

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If it's a balance problem, then it will be complicated to fix. If it's just off your neck a hair, then the collar can either be shrunk in back with an iron, or removed, cut a bit smaller, and sewn back on.

What exactly is a balance problem? I thought that had to do with front and back length.

I have a slightly higher collar on this than on my other jackets. Just feels a little tight around the neck. I thought it might be able to be let out where it meets the lapel.

Originally Posted by il vecchio

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Do members have any recommendations for instructions to tailor for jacket which doesn't gape but just wont hug as I would like. Are such alterations ever really successful?

S., just PM member Despos , assuming he doesn't show up here.


- B

Originally Posted by Parker

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What exactly is a balance problem? I thought that had to do with front and back length. I have a slightly higher collar on this than on my other jackets. Just feels a little tight around the neck. I thought it might be able to be let out where it meets the lapel.
I used to think balance was just an issue of length, too. Apparently, it has more to do with curvature. Viewed from the side, the front and back of a jacket each form a very shallow 'C' curve. When the apex points of of the curves create a horizontal line across your torso that is parallel to the ground, the balances are equal. When the apex is higher in the back, the back balance is short (apparently this is just the way it's done in Naples). When the apex is higher in the front, the front balance is short. At least, this is my understanding. I'm sure Manton or Despos or Vox will come along to edit. Fancy illustrations, below. Equal Front and Back Balance: ./ . . . / | . . . | | . . . | .\\ . . . \\ Short Back Balance: ./ . . . / | . . . | | . . . .\\ .\\ . . . .\\ Short Front Balance: ./ . . . ./ | . . . .| .\\ . . ..| ..\\ .. . .\\

^excellent explanation. Thanks, Matt. This is really helpful.

I'm sure compensating for a swayback would be extra tricky to balance out.

Multiple causes, some can be remedied some not so much.
Most common is when your shoulder is too square for the jacket, collar stands away. Fix by squaring shoulder and shorten collar. Il Vecchio has pretty square shoulders.

Some men have a smaller neck in relation to their chest size and the collar is just too big.
Fix by shortening collar.

Short back due to stooped posture/round back, collar pulls away. This is balance related.
Fix by raising back of jacket and adjust collar. Can be somewhat complex and may not be a 100% solution due to limitations of altering a jacket with limited outlets.

Could be a combination of causes or other reasons. These are basic/common reasons.

Foo, I have no idea what you are saying or describing.

Originally Posted by Despos

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Foo, I have no idea what you are saying or describing.

I'm probably just very wrong.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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I'm probably just very wrong.
First time for everything. I just can't tell what you are saying from your esoteric diagrams and pedantic descriptions.