Indochino suit fit check (updated photos)

HanSoo417 · Mar 21, 2014

This is a remake of my first suit from Indochino. I think its good enough to keep but I want to make a few adjustments for my next suit which I will wear to my wedding

Adjustments and questions that I am thinking about

change to one button to get a lower button stance. right now the top button is pretty much at my chest and I like the longer V.
Take in the jacket slightly at the stomach for a very slight increase in waist suppression. Also, looking from the side the front of the jacket hips seems too big while the back seems too tight. I promise its not a gutt. the jacket and vest just flare out a little there because of what seems like extra fabric.
Take in the vest slightly at the stomach and hips. The stomach is close to okay but the it flares out in the hips a bit too much in the front as seen from the side pic.
Lower the rise on the pants. Its at my belly button right now and I want it just under my belly button. I like high, its just a little too high.
From the front it looks like I can take the pants in a little at the hip and thighs but its tight looking from the back. Is something wrong? (yes I have thick legs) I hate the tapered look so if I let it out in the hips, I would like to let it out from the knees down as well.
I have really skinny wrists and bigger forearms comparatively. Should i widen the sleeve to match the forearm? When I bend my arm and the sleeve comes up it gets stuck on the forearm and I have to pull it down.
And for work, yes I have a pair of decent dress shoes. The chucks are just for the fit check, although I am considering it for the wedding

Any suggestions would be helpful as the next suit is on hold waiting for a fit check on this one.

HanSoo417 · Mar 22, 2014

Also, is the jacket too long? It looks okay from the front, but the back looks a bit long.

And should I consider adding a pleat to the pants to help the fit in the hips and thighs?

GBR · Mar 22, 2014

Not a very nice suit at all.

The coat is ill-fitting and had divots and tucks, possibly a tad short. The waist coat presents a curious appearance und the coat, Trousers too tight around your back side, but too wide through the leg.

Send it back.

cbbuff · Mar 22, 2014

I think the jacket fit is pretty good. It looks like they need to correct for a low left shoulder, that might clean up the back. The shoulders might be a tad too wide. The jacket is definitely not too long, short if anything, but OK.

The pants are a hot mess.

I hate the narrow lapels, but if you like the style, so be it.

HanSoo417 · Mar 22, 2014

GBR said:
Not a very nice suit at all.

The coat is ill-fitting and had divots and tucks, possibly a tad short. The waist coat presents a curious appearance und the coat, Trousers too tight around your back side, but too wide through the leg.

Send it back.

Could all the divots and tucks be from standing too straight? When I stand at a little more relaxed posture, most of the wrinkles in the back go away.
Also, I do agree that the pants are too tight in the seat but I really don't like skinny and very tapered legs so if I take it out, I kinda want to take it out in the legs a bit as well... but I'm not sure. I don't think i can really make it any narrower because my thighs and calves are pretty think. I think it's already pretty snug, but I'm still open to advice

cbbuff said:
I think the jacket fit is pretty good. It looks like they need to correct for a low left shoulder, that might clean up the back. The shoulders might be a tad too wide. The jacket is definitely not too long, short if anything, but OK.

The pants are a hot mess.

I hate the narrow lapels, but if you like the style, so be it.

I do like the think lapels so I will probably keep them.
As for the pants, What do you think I can do to fix them?

MisterFu · Mar 22, 2014

Your robo-stance is making it a little difficult to judge; I suspect that the shoulders are a little wide (telltale dimple below the shoulder pad) and you might have the standard Indochina sleeve-pitch issue (wrinkles on the lower-half of your sleeves from shoulder all the way through your forearm). By Indochina standards, the jacket and waistcoat fit is okay (the pants are a different story as they are clearly too tight in the seat). I'd shy away from additional waist suppression as it looks to be about where it should be.

Switching to a one-button isn't necessarily going to fix the button stance. IMHO, your jacket length is resulting in the high stance (noted by the relatively correct positioning of the top button relative to the pockets). You might be able to move the stance down with a single button, but it could end up looking unbalanced. If you do go with a single button, I'd definitely drop the SB waistcoat and move to a larger, peaked lapel. For my one-button suits (daytime and dinner jacket) I go with a relatively low cut, matching V (meaning that the waistcoat is mostly obscured when jacket is buttoned) peaked lapel double breasted waistcoat (I'd be shocked if Indochina could even make such a thing). Single button is an "advanced" option in my mind and requires a lot of little things to be right or it just looks like a regular SB jacket that is missing a button.

On the subject of waistcoats, you can't lower the rise on your pants without lengthening both your jacket and waistcoat (to keep them in proportion) or you will be committing the ultimate waistcoat faux pas: displaying your belt-line (FYI, you are already doing it wrong by buttoning the bottom button).

I'll just state that if you start tweaking too much, especially towards making things even more "athletic" you'll probably end up with something far worse than what you have right now.

HanSoo417 · Mar 22, 2014

MisterFu said:
Your robo-stance is making it a little difficult to judge; I suspect that the shoulders are a little wide (telltale dimple below the shoulder pad) and you might have the standard Indochina sleeve-pitch issue (wrinkles on the lower-half of your sleeves from shoulder all the way through your forearm). By Indochina standards, the jacket and waistcoat fit is okay (the pants are a different story as they are clearly too tight in the seat). I'd shy away from additional waist suppression as it looks to be about where it should be.

Switching to a one-button isn't necessarily going to fix the button stance. IMHO, your jacket length is resulting in the high stance (noted by the relatively correct positioning of the top button relative to the pockets). You might be able to move the stance down with a single button, but it could end up looking unbalanced. If you do go with a single button, I'd definitely drop the SB waistcoat and move to a larger, peaked lapel. For my one-button suits (daytime and dinner jacket) I go with a relatively low cut, matching V (meaning that the waistcoat is mostly obscured when jacket is buttoned) peaked lapel double breasted waistcoat (I'd be shocked if Indochina could even make such a thing). Single button is an "advanced" option in my mind and requires a lot of little things to be right or it just looks like a regular SB jacket that is missing a button.

On the subject of waistcoats, you can't lower the rise on your pants without lengthening both your jacket and waistcoat (to keep them in proportion) or you will be committing the ultimate waistcoat faux pas: displaying your belt-line (FYI, you are already doing it wrong by buttoning the bottom button).

I'll just state that if you start tweaking too much, especially towards making things even more "athletic" you'll probably end up with something far worse than what you have right now.

Thanks for the input

What would you suggest in improving the suit if I could ask for a remake or alterations from the tailor?

MisterFu · Mar 22, 2014

HanSoo417 said:
Thanks for the input

What would you suggest in improving the suit if I could ask for a remake or from the tailor?

First, I'd wait until some of the tailors around here have had a chance to weigh in.

Second, I think some additional pictures with you in a less robo stance would make it easier to judge. Feet closer together, arms relaxed resting by your side. It would also be helpful to see the suit with a tie on (or at least closed collar) and with the jacket both open and buttoned (with and without the waistcoat).

Those two things said, I'd obviously have them revisit your measurements for the seat of your pants and have the seat let-out, I'd have them bring in the shoulders by a half-inch and I'd check the sleeve pitch. I'd have a local (real) alterations tailor look at the suit to give you an opinion in person.

One quick note: other than the pants, IMHO the suit is wearable as is (it certainly fits better than a lot peoples OTR "athletic /fashion forward" stuff) so I wouldn't get too obsessive with changing things. Indochina, for all of its MTM marketing, is only capable of doing so much. I know SF can make you notice every pull and wrinkle, but what is important is does it look relatively good in motion (not robo-pose), do you like the way you look in it and can you comfortably spend a whole day wearing it.

HanSoo417 · Mar 22, 2014

MisterFu said:
First, I'd wait until some of the tailors around here have had a chance to weigh in.

Second, I think some additional pictures with you in a less robo stance would make it easier to judge. Feet closer together, arms relaxed resting by your side. It would also be helpful to see the suit with a tie on (or at least closed collar) and with the jacket both open and buttoned (with and without the waistcoat).

Those two things said, I'd obviously have them revisit your measurements for the seat of your pants and have the seat let-out, I'd have them bring in the shoulders by a half-inch and I'd check the sleeve pitch. I'd have a local (real) alterations tailor look at the suit to give you an opinion in person.

One quick note: other than the pants, IMHO the suit is wearable as is (it certainly fits better than a lot peoples OTR "athletic /fashion forward" stuff) so I wouldn't get too obsessive with changing things. Indochina, for all of its MTM marketing, is only capable of doing so much. I know SF can make you notice every pull and wrinkle, but what is important is does it look relatively good in motion (not robo-pose), do you like the way you look in it and can you comfortably spend a whole day wearing it.

I will try to take some more picture with a more relaxed posture and update the photos tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestion, I do think its fits better with a more relaxed posture.

MisterFu · Mar 22, 2014

HanSoo417 said:
I will try to take some more picture with a more relaxed posture and update the photos tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestion, I do think its fits better with a more relaxed posture.

That's why you don't see catalogs and magazines posing their models in robo-stance

.

GBR · Mar 22, 2014

HanSoo417 said:
Thanks for the input

What would you suggest in improving the suit if I could ask for a remake or alterations from the tailor?

Get your money back and start again with a decent tailor.

HanSoo417 · Mar 22, 2014

GBR said:
Get your money back and start again with a decent tailor.

If you can find me a decent tailor that can make me a 3 piece suit for $400, I will definitely give it try

MisterFu · Mar 22, 2014

HanSoo417 said:
If you can find me a decent tailor that can make me a 3 piece suit for $400, I will definitely give it try

socrates · Mar 23, 2014

MisterFu said:
I know SF can make you notice every pull and wrinkle, but what is important is does it look relatively good in motion (not robo-pose), do you like the way you look in it and can you comfortably spend a whole day wearing it.

Especially if you add in the prejudice many here on the forum have of anything Chinese made. I know many people here have good intentions, but they are living in their own reality world if they think all people can afford local tailoring services.

I have ordered two MTM Chinese suits. They turned out o.k. Is it as good as another MTM suits? No. But given my budget I am more than happy with the results. It not realistic for anyone to order an online MTM suit and expect a perfect fit. With bespoke tailoring they need three fittings to get a pretty good fit on your first suit. It is with the second, and sometimes third bespoke suits that you can expect a perfect SF approved fit. I know a tailor in the U.S. who had a laundry and alteration business. He also sold MTM suits, where he would take the customer's measurements, send them to a local U.S. suit factory. When the factory sent the suit back to him, he would get a fitting and make the appropriate alterations before handing over the finish product to the customer. Rarely did he get a good fit straight from the factory without alterations. My point being with your new wedding suit you will still need to a tailor to get a better fit.

HanSoo417 · Mar 23, 2014

updated with a little more relaxed posture.

The pants looks a little better sitting a little lower on my waist. Its not so tight in the seat.

Also it was a little windy so some of the shots make the pants look wider than they actually are.

Indochino suit fit check (updated photos)

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