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A Curated Best of (with extra curation!)

post #1 of 153
Thread Starter 

Alright so I asked a number of folks, and I'll be asking a few more, to select their five favorite fits from the Composite Thread by whatever criteria they want. I generally asked folks who I knew had a pretty solid sense of where they were stylistically (as opposed to folks still developing). I thought it would be interesting to see if there was anything about how they dressed that manifested in what they liked.

 

Since I asked a number of people, I'll be posting new sets every few days as the responses trickle in. Probably five at a time as any more might be information overload.

 

FlyingMonkey (with awesome explanations) (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post
 

Okay, here we go. Claghorn asked me to provide some explanation too, and if you know me, you'll know it won't be brief! But for those who don't want to read it, I have left it until after the pictures. Rather than 5, with 6 fits (or depending on how you count it, 7) and in no particular order:

 

Malford of London

I felt I had to chose one odd jacket and grey trousers fit, simply because getting the uniform of SF right is in itself an achievement. Lots of people do it well, Claghorn in particular, and Stitchy too. Betelgeuse's jackets are superb, but I like this because of the combination of simple perfection in every aspect and the fact that the jacket is brown not blue and it works. Just that one small choice makes it just a bit special. MoL posted almost excatly the same fit with a standard navy jacket a few days later, and my first thought was 'Claghorn has done it better than this several times'...

 

Braddock:

Okay, like every fit from Braddock, this is one to savour. What isn't perfect about it? The suit fits everywhere (that's suprisingly uncommon for a start). The shirt is blue, but not your standard solid blue, it has a very subtle pattern, not showy but there. Where Braddock absolutely excels on this forum, and it probably isn't surprising given that he co-owns a company that makes the things, is his pairings of ties and squares. Every time. The interplay he creates is like a painting. And here is a masterclass. I could almost have picked any of his fits to show this, including his recent one with the awesome coat (with its own, different, square - clearly it must be given that the coat is a different colour...). But this one also has these shoes. Now, Spoo perhaps has the finest collection of perfectly kept shoes on this forum, but these are shoes that are beautiful because they are worn hard but cared for lovingly. Their life is visible. Just gorgeous.

 

TTO

I knew I had to choose something from Theo, being that he is probably my favourite long-time poster on these forums. He has this slouchy English style that makes suits look not like armour but like the most comfortable pajamas. The sense of comfort is also enhanced by the deep tones deployed here in the flannel suit, the aubergine tie and the dark blue PS. No white squares here. It's all deep and rich, like a glass of Ardbeg in the perfect Chesterfield sofa in your favourite bar. TTO's suits don't always fit perfectly, many of them are vintage and on occasions he even just rolls the sleeves slightly rather than have them altered. But that's part of why it works - many lesser mortals would be too insecure to get away with it. He has his own particular look from the shirts with collars like no-one else would even dream of requesting and which are at first confusing and then later you wonder why anyone wouldn't want them like that. Again, I could have chosen another one of his fits - TTO also does great hats - although if I have any criticism, it's that he occasionally over-accessorizes...

 

Butler

 

 

I'm going to cheat and give you two-for-one here. In some ways, Butler is the anti-TTO. I don't mean that he's his mortal enemy, but his stylistic heights are achieved through a clearly intimate relationship with his tailors and shirtmakers. As I discovered in a discussion the other days, Butler isn't as physically imposing as he seems in his pictures and as such he is a walking advertisement for the power of fine bespoke tailoring to make us look more than we are. I chose the first one inititally because it is both brilliant in terms of the fit and materials and daring in terms of the monochromaticism going on. A symphony in greys (although of course he's wise not to try the same with the shoes). I had to unspoiler and include the photo from behind, because this shows you just how good, good tailoring can be. That's what a coat back can and should look like. Look at the sleeve head. Later, however, I added the second fit because despite the bravado of the first, I think I prefer this one with the unusual green wool tie. Suede shoes again. BTW, I seem to remember that someone once proposed a fight between Butler and Victor, but while he may have the physique, judging by these pictures, Victor would be cowed into submission by the force of the gaze...

 

Pingson

Well, I had to have something from Pingson, didn't I? The man with more 20+ fits than anyone else and the forum's new favourite poster. And justifiably so. However, looking through all these fits together, I have to say that Pingson can be too monochrome. I wish that more often he'd inject a little more colour (a la Braddock) into his tie and square combinations. I think I chose this one because in some ways it is unusual for him. I think it's one of those vintage suits he inherited and had recut (he can correct me if I am wrong), but there's something about the cut that is really satisfying and a little looser and more relaxed than some of his other suits. It's really nice to see a pinstripe worn well (and Cleav came a close second for me in this category). I like the stark simplicity of the claret tie and white PS. This is when a symmetrical, not FiH knot not is the right choice too. Nothing flashy in the socks and a good demonstration of exactly when to wear the always underrated black captoes. And as with Braddock's shoes above, I just love the fact that he's not showing off his new shoes which we will never see again, these are well worn, loved and ever-so-slightly battered shoes.

 

Tirailleur

Apart from the fact that all these publicity shots are beautiful pictures, they also capture something of the essence of Tirailleur and why he's added something really special to SF. Quite simply, he makes classic menswear, and suits in particular, look really fucking cool. His hats are legendary. And he makes great ties that really aren't like anything else you can buy out there. This was also my favourites glen plaid fit (with TTO a close second). It just has an almost impossible combination of sharpness and relaxation. The blue suit right at the beginning of the thread was probably as good, but Braddock had already grabbed my blue suit vote.

 

Bonus for the best personal photo ever posted in CM (and one of the nicest tweed jackets), DerekS:

 

 

Okay, now here's the boring stuff...

 

Looking through all the fits on this thread so far, I'm struck by several things. One is that I am not as impressed with as many of the individual fits when grouped together like this as I was when I first saw them on their own. That's not to say that any are 'bad' although there are some fits and indeed some posters who mystify me in their popularity (but I will mention no names here) - and you could easily pull our a '20 great fits' from this thread - but it's just that one starts to recognise how few of our fits are truly 'outstanding' when it comes to selecting just 5. How does one even decide? Is a fit outstanding because it is particularly representative of something considered a goal by SF? Some posters continually hit this target: in different ways posters as varied as @Pliny, @in sitches, @SpooPoker, @Cleav and @timotune, for example. Is it outstanding because it is the best example of what a particular poster strives to do, again and again? I'm thinking a poster like @upr_crust here. His fits have a very particular MO, which you probably either like or you don't, and I have to admit that a lot of the time, I just scroll right by because it seems like I've seen this before, but when it's good, it's really, really good. @Pingson also does the same thing consistently, and consistently brilliantly, but his are a prime example of fits that I am less impressed with when I see them collectively than when I see them individually, which makes it very difficult to chose one - this, I recognise, is entirely my problem. Is something outstanding because it literally 'stands out', i.e. is untypical of the mass of SF posters and is a level above - like almost everything posted by @Butler, @TTO or @Tirailleur1, to give three very different examples, or just because they do things their own sweet way regardless, like @An Acute Style. Should I just chose the best pictures? @DerekS's head and shoulders shot could have come from the pages of some early 1960s gentleman's guide and Tirailleur - again - knows exactly how to use his environment to bring out the best in what he wears. Should I highlight a poster like @clarinetplayer who I think often does not get recognised for what he does - he'd be the new @oldog/oldtrix, if o/o wasn't still occasionally around doing his almost inimitable thing... they are both superb representatives of what Vox once called the American haberdashery tradition, a 'proper' way of dressing that is several states away from the whole Ivy thing. Should I be 'political' and favour posters who dress in a way that I think others should emulate? Should I be intellectual and analyse every fit according to some complex schema of my own devising? Or should I just follow my eye and my heart...

 

Well, in the end it was a bit of everything. I did give myself some personal rules: one of which was to have not more than one from any one poster (or my top 5 would probably be mostly Braddock at the moment. Seriously, I really think he's that good).  And the other, was that each fit would represent something different, or I could have had just the top 5 blue suits - I think there were 5 blue suits in my long list of 25... But otherwise, I just picked my personal favourites. And apologies for anyone I haven't mentioned. It doesn't mean I don't like anything you've worn in this thread!

 

Parker (Click to show)

 

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), default quality

 

 

Pingson (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post

Sup doods, long time no post here!








 
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by EFV View Post

Still summer in Stockholm. New cotton suit and shirt. The PS is also new (cheers Malford!!). Oh, new shoes and socks as well.


In our backyard (Click to show)






[/quote]
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Braddock View Post

 









Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post

AppleMark





  More and details (Click to show)

Suit - Canali


Shirt - Cornelliani


Tie- Drakes


Socks - Wolsey


Shoes - Edward Green





Quote:
Originally Posted by TTO View Post

X-Post from the Uniform Challenge.











Keeping it SIMPLE, which for me is odd!

-TTO
Cantabrigian (a punk if I ever knew one) (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tirailleur1 View Post

So i've been super busy but still lurking SF. Just released my spring line and thought it would be cool to share some of the shots I did for the collection.

Since I'm already fanboi-ing (Click to show)
I wish I could do stuff like this...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tirailleur1 View Post

Got the opportunity to be featured in TSB.





2) In some ways the exact opposite of (1), Henry just does everything right.

You look at how formulaic yet consistently good his outfits are and you think that it should be easy to be well dressed. But for some reason, very few people get there.

Everything fits well. Colors schemes are simple but there's always a bit of texture to add some interest.

It really is everything we all know (or should know) how to do but don't usually do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

Back to flannels.... Thanks for the thumbs yesterday



Herringbone
Kamakura
Henry Carter Chocolate knit
Henry Carter flannel prototype
Carmina


3) Butler's steez lies right in the middle of the Tirailleur - Henry Carter axis.

It's all beautifully executed by his tailors but always just a little further than classic (or at least what's generally considered classic / canonical nowadays, given his fondness for stiff detachable collars and the like).

I picked this photo because the grey on grey on grey looks good. You probably shouldn't be able to pull that off but he manages to do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butler View Post

X-post from Challenge:

Steven Hitchcock SB, Harrison Saltire Cashmere windowpane & Ambrosi trousers in Minnis 300 flannel. Turnbull & Asser shirt with detached collar from Budd, Rubinacci tie, John Lobb St James's nubuck bigstar[1].gif:

c43o.jpg


4) Sometimes it really is just as simple as going to a good bespoke tailor and letting him do his thing.

You don't see very many good looking DBs. But when you find one, it really can stand on its own.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aportnoy View Post

Despos-made DB in charcoal H&S Victory flannel
Inglese burgundy stripe shirt
Calabrese wool tie
Carmina full brogues



5) I picked this photo of TTO because it's a great example of picking a tailoring style that suits your body. Hopefully Theo won't mind my mentioning that he isn't exactly David Gandy but the cleaner chest, stronger shoulder and nipped waist of the British military style really flatter his frame.

He also has an amazing sense for patterns. The example in the spoiler is great example of that and also solves the surprisingly difficult (at times) problem of how to dress for the three weeks of summer in England.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TTO View Post


-TTO
Patterns (Click to show)

Honorable Mention)

Pingson rocks the 3-piece hard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pingson View Post

I started the week with a three-piece, so why not end the week with another? Have a nice weekend........



Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Holdfast (Click to show)

 

 

 

cmp3.9.27.0Lq4 0xad6b4f35

 

 

post #2 of 153
Damn, I don't know how I missed that EFV summer fit...
post #3 of 153
Thread Starter 
Of this five, Pingson's list is my favorite, followed by FM
post #4 of 153
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post

Damn, I don't know how I missed that EFV summer fit...

plus one.

honestly, i dont know how i am going to keep this to just 5. i may see what i end up with, and if there are multiple fits from 5 or more different posters, ill pick my fave fit from each one.

when you look at all the 20+ thumbed fits from each poster who has a number of fits in that thread, you can start to see how each person really has a specific aesthetic, and i think it would be cool to show what was for me the highlight of each of those aesthetics.
post #5 of 153
I should probably add that when I selected the fits, I decided to only get only one fit per person that I selected. And I agree with what others have stated, there were probably 20 other fits I easily could have chosen instead.

But it was an interesting exercise to go through all the post and get a more comprehensive view of the fits from different people.....
Edited by Pingson - 3/19/14 at 11:27am
post #6 of 153
but you chose none for me, so clearly you did a bad job ! angry.gif
post #7 of 153
I had the exact same problem. I had narrowed it down to 15 fits from which I honestly couldn't pick out a top 5, so I opened them in a bunch of windows and randomly x:ed out 10 fits. Sort of a sartorial roulette. Unfortunately Stitchy, Butler, Braddock and a bunch of equally great posts were x:ed. To my embarrassment one of my own fits stayed in the top 5 shog[1].gif

On the other hand, if you don't love your own outfits you're doing it wrong lol8[1].gif
post #8 of 153
Quote:
Originally Posted by EFV View Post

I had the exact same problem. I had narrowed it down to 15 fits from which I honestly couldn't pick out a top 5, so I opened them in a bunch of windows and randomly x:ed out 10 fits. Sort of a sartorial roulette. Unfortunately Stitchy, Butler, Braddock and a bunch of equally great posts were x:ed.

that hurts, man. hurts so hard. frown.gif

plox to PM me the fit(s) of mine that made your sartorial roulette wheel.
Quote:
To my embarrassment one of my own fits stayed in the top 5 shog[1].gif On the other hand, if you don't love your own outfits you're doing it wrong lol8[1].gif

could not agree more.
post #9 of 153
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

that hurts, man. hurts so hard. frown.gif

plox to PM me the fit(s) of mine that made your sartorial roulette wheel...

Rest assured you're one of my favourite posters on this forum.

These 2 made my top 15: 1, 2

Honourable mention to this SC which I think does your complexion justice, but would probably never work on me.
post #10 of 153
first off, inlove.gif and right back atcha!

secondly, those fits are in my top 20 list as well. still trying to decide my faves, both my own, and others. but your white fit is IN!!!
post #11 of 153

This was a very interesting exercise. I hadn't followed 20 thumb thread closely, so firstly it was entertaining to look through some really nice outfits.

 

Then came the hard part of selecting fits I liked. Long-listing was easy; I picked outfits that I thought had a certain extra je ne sais quoi beyond just being good, and ended up with about 15-20 outfits. I'm pleased to say that nearly all of my long list choices are represented in the final choices of that other curators made. I think that says something about what is an excellent fit; we might disagree in what is superlative vs merely excellent, but there's a clear jump between excellent and merely good. From what I can see from everyone's choices, that added element is personality. And I find that to be deeply reassuring, on a human level.

 

I then narrowed down the long list to the short two ways: firstly, I picked the best outfit for any given member with more than one fit in the long list. Secondly, if there were two similar outfits from different members, I chose which I figured was the best one, rather than have two of the same style in my final selection. These two processes got me down to about 7 picks, and then I simply let pure emotion get me down to 5.

 

What I like about my 5 choices:

 

Clags: I find some of his outfits very well put together technically but missing some of the joy inherent in nice clothes in the aspects of the colour and detail. This outfit combines good technical choices with real freshness & vivacity in the tie and square, making the whole come together beautifully. Especially when you see the close-up of the jacket colour in the original post, revealing it to be much nicer than in the distant photo. All the colours just work.

Tira: I generally love his fits, and the in some respects they are the mirror image of Clags. This outfit ticks all those boxes. Beautiful bold colours, working in tension & synergy, and telling us something about the man through his clothes.

Pingson: my favourite 3pc suit. Delightful palette; subdued, gentle, warm and comfortable.

Crat: my favourite DB suit. Aggressive & confident

EFV: summer suits are tricky beasts. There are two ways to pull them off IMO: effortless pristine coolness despite the heat or graceful rumpled acceptance of the day. Trying to do both is guaranteed failure. EFV manages the graceful rumpling archetype perfectly in this cotton suit.

post #12 of 153
A few thoughts:

• FlyingMonkey's commentary was excellent (including the connection of CP and o/o)
• The allegations of SF groupthink are overblown. Here we see a cross-section of the new SF Illuminati (as opposed to the Old Heads of the Once Great StyleForum [May It Rest In Peace]) recognizing a variety of styles and aesthetics as the best of the current era. Even AAS gets a shout-out
• Theo and Tira are stone-cold killers
• I wish some of the OHotOGSFMIRIP would peruse the 20-thumb thread and weigh in
post #13 of 153
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

but you chose none for me, so clearly you did a bad job ! angry.gif

I can assure you that you had several among the top 20, I am particularly fond of this and this

I also automatically disqualified myself when selecting fits. I know I like the way I dress so it seemed like a moot point to select my own fits..... nod[1].gif
post #14 of 153
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

• I wish some of the OHotOGSFMIRIP would peruse the 20-thumb thread and weigh in

do not want. as least not from everyone in that crew. disaster waiting to happen that will just make everyone, or at least a lot of people, mad, and ruin the present goodness of the threads convo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pingson View Post

I can assure you that you had several among the top 20, I am particularly fond of this and this

icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

i am quite fond of those as well, tho there is a better version of the first one that is not in the compendium thread, it was done a while back. it will probably be in my top 5.
Quote:
I also automatically disqualified myself when selecting fits. I know I like the way I dress so it seemed like a moot point to select my own fits..... nod[1].gif

crazy.gif
post #15 of 153
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pingson View Post


I can assure you that you had several among the top 20, I am particularly fond of this and this

I also automatically disqualified myself when selecting fits. I know I like the way I dress so it seemed like a moot point to select my own fits..... nod[1].gif

Same here. 

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