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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 378

post #5656 of 6174

@SPIER & MACKAY I read that the new factory produces softer canvas, better balance and slightly better finish. Just wondering, how is this new factory associated with Zegna? thx

post #5657 of 6174
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dracolnyte View Post
 

@SPIER & MACKAY I read that the new factory produces softer canvas, better balance and slightly better finish. Just wondering, how is this new factory associated with Zegna? thx

 

They bought a 50% stake in the factory. The venture gave Zegna insights into the Chinese Domestic market (now the worlds largest luxury market), and in turn the factory benefited by the technical input brought in by Zegna. There are 3 separate factories under their control now. The largest producing 300k suits/year, and producing for international brands like Suitsupply. We're far too small to be there. The smallest producing 70k suits/year, geared for smaller production runs, but a higher cost. We're in the smallest facility, which is good, because smaller factories have better overall quality control from our past experience.

 

When I visited the factory, though all the workers were Chinese, the executive technicians were mostly Italian. The biggest difference explained to me between a Zegna European made suit and the Chinese suit is the level of handwork included in the finish. The European suits have significantly more.

post #5658 of 6174

Excited to get the new navy hopsack soon! I already have the brown guncheck and really like it, the weight lends itself to year-round wear and I may eventually pick up the navy guncheck.

post #5659 of 6174
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

 

They bought a 50% stake in the factory. The venture gave Zegna insights into the Chinese Domestic market (now the worlds largest luxury market), and in turn the factory benefited by the technical input brought in by Zegna. There are 3 separate factories under their control now. The largest producing 300k suits/year, and producing for international brands like Suitsupply. We're far too small to be there. The smallest producing 70k suits/year, geared for smaller production runs, but a higher cost. We're in the smallest facility, which is good, because smaller factories have better overall quality control from our past experience.

 

When I visited the factory, though all the workers were Chinese, the executive technicians were mostly Italian. The biggest difference explained to me between a Zegna European made suit and the Chinese suit is the level of handwork included in the finish. The European suits have significantly more.

thanks, i will pick up a MTM suit from your store one day

post #5660 of 6174

Are the new jackets from the new factory, sizing up identical or have they made up a touch smaller or larger?  

post #5661 of 6174
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burzan View Post
 

 

Did the RTW oxfords show up yesterday? I am guessing those will be next week now. The earlier email had me rushing to my computer thinking it was about them haha.

 

They have arrived. Just unboxing, getting the inventory on them and photos. Should be this week online ready to go.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadaCal View Post
 

Are the new jackets from the new factory, sizing up identical or have they made up a touch smaller or larger?  

 

They are on our pattern block. The slim are pretty much exact. The contemporary on this delivery have a waist that is +1.25 cm larger total on the pieces we checked, with the rest identical. So a touch larger at the waist.

post #5662 of 6174

I've been looking for blue and pink striped fabrics for custom shirts that would be a bit heavier than most broadcloth, for FW dress shirts with jacket and tie.

 

Would the brushed oxford cloths be too casual and flannel-y for a spread collar shirt? I've been waiting to see if any such striped fabric appear in pinpoint, which might be ideal for my use.

 

Some true oxford cloths are dressy enough for my use, such as the white cloth that BB used to use a few years ago for their white OCBDs (who know, they might still use the same cloth). 

 

Perhaps the brushing won't be such a big deal. Kamakura makes cashmere cotton and flannel dress shirts:

 

Cashmere Cotton:

http://shop.shirt.co.jp/shop/e/emcashmer/?sl_1007tp01

 

Flannel:

http://shop.shirt.co.jp/shop/e/emflannel/?sl_1007m03

post #5663 of 6174

I'm in desperate need of some shirts, been holding out for the new cloth since August. Based on the new custom fabrics I'm hoping to get the following OTR:

 

Green Ruggers Check

Red Ruggers Check

Bedford Light Blue Small Check

Charcoal Melange

Rust and Blue Melange Check

Bleecker Slate Blue Melange (is this Denim/Chambray?)

Navy Double Check

Burgundy Stripe Oxford

 

Just curious what others are leaning towards? Rick which of these will be available OTR? 

post #5664 of 6174
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiggyv View Post
 

I'm in desperate need of some shirts, been holding out for the new cloth since August. Based on the new custom fabrics I'm hoping to get the following OTR:

 

Green Ruggers Check

Red Ruggers Check

Bedford Light Blue Small Check

Charcoal Melange

Rust and Blue Melange Check

Bleecker Slate Blue Melange (is this Denim/Chambray?)

Navy Double Check

Burgundy Stripe Oxford

 

Just curious what others are leaning towards? Rick which of these will be available OTR? 

 

All will be available OTR.

post #5665 of 6174
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spex View Post
 

I've been looking for blue and pink striped fabrics for custom shirts that would be a bit heavier than most broadcloth, for FW dress shirts with jacket and tie.

 

Would the brushed oxford cloths be too casual and flannel-y for a spread collar shirt? I've been waiting to see if any such striped fabric appear in pinpoint, which might be ideal for my use.

 

Some true oxford cloths are dressy enough for my use, such as the white cloth that BB used to use a few years ago for their white OCBDs (who know, they might still use the same cloth). 

 

Perhaps the brushing won't be such a big deal. Kamakura makes cashmere cotton and flannel dress shirts:

 

Cashmere Cotton:

http://shop.shirt.co.jp/shop/e/emcashmer/?sl_1007tp01

 

Flannel:

http://shop.shirt.co.jp/shop/e/emflannel/?sl_1007m03

 

The brushing is minimal. More like a peach fuzz.

post #5666 of 6174
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post

All will be available OTR.

Haha Exactly what my wallet was hoping not to hear.

Thanks, Rick.
post #5667 of 6174

@SPIER & MACKAY I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger on that new brushed wool Navy suit you have, but before I do, I have two questions(sorry if you've answered these before).

 

1. Is the lapel width on the new jackets still 3.5 inches?

 

2. What's the difference between regular wool, and brushed wool? is it just an added touch of texture?

 

thanks for your time and help,

Dirk

post #5668 of 6174

Hey Rick, any chance of revamping the suit/garment bags? I think the free Suit Supply bag is fantastic but I can't find it elsewhere and no offense, miles ahead of the one you guys currently use.

post #5669 of 6174
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post #5670 of 6174
Quote:
Originally Posted by burgerkong View Post

Hey Rick, any chance of revamping the suit/garment bags? I think the free Suit Supply bag is fantastic but I can't find it elsewhere and no offense, miles ahead of the one you guys currently use.

You mean the SuSu one that folds with zippers into a kind of normal bag? That is awesomely useful.
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