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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 343

post #5131 of 6230
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spex View Post
 

Here's something I've been thinking about for next season. How about the idea of:

 

1. A higher end chino, one that is unhemmed, with split back with taped seams...basically a chino version of your dress pant that would be meant to be worn pressed with a crease. How much would such an item cost to produce?

 

2. Then offer separate unstructured chino jackets (LBM 1911 style) in the same colors that could be worn as casual odd jackets, or paired with the trousers for a cotton suit. I'm thinking colors such as khaki, navy, brown, stone, olive and maybe a brighter or lighter blue. 

 

Am I crazy?

 

This is something we've already been looking into for next SS. For the jacket, would it be completely unstructured, in that there is NO canvas, or simply soft canvas, no shoulder pad, no lining?

post #5132 of 6230
Thread Starter 

Another question to the community.

 

RE: Trousers, any changes you would like to see in the trousers? Sizing/Fit, styling? Slim Fit, Contemporary Fit? Need a Classic Fit or Athletic Fit. Rise? Thigh Room? Leg Slimness, etc?

post #5133 of 6230
:embar:Love that idea of cotton separates. I need higher rise, dressy cotton pants.

Trouser change: I'm not buying suits from yall because the contemporary pants fit a bit too slim and low rise. Would aim for an 8.5" opening and a flat front with rise of 11 to 11.25 to be accommodating to the largest number of people's tastes. A bit more room through the thigh/hip would also be nice. This also goes for cotton dress pants you develop. For the jacket, go with slightly wider, 3.75" lapels, and totally unstructured. I'd get a pine green and a British khaki suit like that in a heartbeat. Preferably 3 r 2.5. This is pretty much replicating what I have in a Boglioli navy cotton jacket. Patch hip pockets of course. Don't go with a shorter length on these like some makers do.

Edit: I'm a 33-34" waist so that's my reference point for the preferred rise.
Edited by losrockets - 8/26/16 at 5:03pm
post #5134 of 6230
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

Another question to the community.

 

RE: Trousers, any changes you would like to see in the trousers? Sizing/Fit, styling? Slim Fit, Contemporary Fit? Need a Classic Fit or Athletic Fit. Rise? Thigh Room? Leg Slimness, etc?

I've tried on a pair of contemporary fit pants and I found them too slim for my taste.  The rise was too low for me and the thigh needed more room.  I doubt I'd be able to even get the slim fit pants on.  For a size 30, 11 inch rise would be great, at least 10.5.  More room in the thigh and hip as well.  Leg opening around 7.5 or 8.  

post #5135 of 6230
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post

Another question to the community.

RE: Trousers, any changes you would like to see in the trousers? Sizing/Fit, styling? Slim Fit, Contemporary Fit? Need a Classic Fit or Athletic Fit. Rise? Thigh Room? Leg Slimness, etc?

The Contemporary fit works quite well for me. But I've noticed that it's often not available in size 30. Since I can't get into your Slim fit, that means my only option is custom.

I wouldn't object to a slightly higher rise. Among other things, the low rise means that the fly is quite short.
post #5136 of 6230
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post

Another question to the community.

RE: Trousers, any changes you would like to see in the trousers? Sizing/Fit, styling? Slim Fit, Contemporary Fit? Need a Classic Fit or Athletic Fit. Rise? Thigh Room? Leg Slimness, etc?

PLEATS!

Seriously though, adding a new model essentially taking the Contemporary fit, adding a little rise, a single shallow pleat, and adjusters no loops would be awesome. Much like the custom ones you did for me.
post #5137 of 6230

Will the Blue Aspen check offer in slim fit?

post #5138 of 6230
Quote:
Originally Posted by losrockets View Post

Love that idea of cotton separates. I need higher rise, dressy cotton pants.

Trouser change: I'm not buying suits from yall because the contemporary pants fit a bit too slim and low rise. Would aim for an 8.5" opening and a flat front with rise of 11 to 11.25 to be accommodating to the largest number of people's tastes. A bit more room through the thigh/hip would also be nice. This also goes for cotton dress pants you develop. For the jacket, go with slightly wider, 3.75" lapels, and totally unstructured. I'd get a pine green and a British khaki suit like that in a heartbeat. Preferably 3 r 2.5. This is pretty much replicating what I have in a Boglioli navy cotton jacket. Patch hip pockets of course. Don't go with a shorter length on these like some makers do.

+1000%
post #5139 of 6230

On a totally separate note, I may have mentioned this before, but most of the F/W sport coats seem to be made of fairly light weight fabric.  Has S&M considered making heavier sport coats in Harris Tweed, corduroy, moleskin, loden or flannel, etc? 

post #5140 of 6230
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post
 

On a totally separate note, I may have mentioned this before, but most of the F/W sport coats seem to be made of fairly light weight fabric.  Has S&M considered making heavier sport coats in Harris Tweed, corduroy, moleskin, loden or flannel, etc? 

 

Half of the FW Jackets will be Wool/Cashmere in a 325 gram, which is a decent cool weather weight.

 

One of our big challenges is obtaining the small quantity of fabric at a good price to keep in line with our value and most importantly at the right time. We can order small runs of cloth from Italian producers, but the price is high. OR you can buy odds/ends in small quantities at a good price, but at a end of as season, when it doesn't make sense to run production on that item and we can't afford to sit on fabric stocks.

 

This is why you rarely see smaller companies offer value that competes with larger companies. We are growing and our quantities keep increasing monthly, so I don't think we are far off now. I would LOVE to do Harris Tweed, Corduroy and Flannel sportcoats.

post #5141 of 6230
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

Another question to the community.

 

RE: Trousers, any changes you would like to see in the trousers? Sizing/Fit, styling? Slim Fit, Contemporary Fit? Need a Classic Fit or Athletic Fit. Rise? Thigh Room? Leg Slimness, etc?

 

Increase thigh room. Add suspender buttons into the pants.

 

For example, could you put the thigh room in the size 34, into a size 33 trouser?


Edited by doodledoc - 8/26/16 at 11:33am
post #5142 of 6230
Quote:
Originally Posted by losrockets View Post

Love that idea of cotton separates. I need higher rise, dressy cotton pants.

Trouser change: I'm not buying suits from yall because the contemporary pants fit a bit too slim and low rise. Would aim for an 8.5" opening and a flat front with rise of 11 to 11.25 to be accommodating to the largest number of people's tastes. A bit more room through the thigh/hip would also be nice. This also goes for cotton dress pants you develop. For the jacket, go with slightly wider, 3.75" lapels, and totally unstructured. I'd get a pine green and a British khaki suit like that in a heartbeat. Preferably 3 r 2.5. This is pretty much replicating what I have in a Boglioli navy cotton jacket. Patch hip pockets of course. Don't go with a shorter length on these like some makers do.


This, I have nothing but shirts from you guys due to slimness of the pants and based on your size charts I would need a 48 in your jacket cut. At a 39 waist, I would like a 12 -13 inch rise and agree with the gent who said dressy flat front chinos with split back , longer rise, and suspender buttons should be in all of your pants.

post #5143 of 6230
Jacket structure - I'd be good with completely unstructured, but I'll defer the question to those more knowledgeable.

Lapel width - I don't care about hard measurements, but I'd prefer a width that hits at the exact midpoint between lapel edge and shoulder. I don't like fashionably skinny, but I also don't need something so wide that it draws attention.

Trouser fit - I'd have to try my recent Contemporary fit trousers on again (I purchased them for fall/winter trousers), but I recall them fitting perfectly all around and wouldn't change a thing. I may be slimmer than others though.
post #5144 of 6230
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

Another question to the community.

 

RE: Trousers, any changes you would like to see in the trousers? Sizing/Fit, styling? Slim Fit, Contemporary Fit? Need a Classic Fit or Athletic Fit. Rise? Thigh Room? Leg Slimness, etc?

 

The only trousers I've bought are the old casual chinos, which I returned because they were insanely tight. Based on measurements, the other trousers will be too snug for me as well. I'd like something with more room at the hip and thigh, while keeping a relatively slim lower leg. Higher rise and side adjusters work for me for odd trousers, while I always add suspender buttons to suits.

post #5145 of 6230

I just received some of the new striped shirts and they are hands down the best shirts 45$ can get you. The fabric is super soft and the fit is on point.

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