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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 299

post #4471 of 6199
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post

I'd love some pics of the Italian semi spread if anyone has some.

 

post #4472 of 6199

Marine blue polo arrived yesterday, beautiful color.

 

post #4473 of 6199
Quote:
Originally Posted by doodledoc View Post
 

 

Thanks for the pics.    I like this a lot better than the semi spread, but not as much as the full spread with a tie.  I like the semi spread because it looks decent without a tie and jacket.  I don't like it with a tie and jacket because the points aren't long enough.  I think the full spread looks best without a tie or jacket.  I'd be curious to see the Italian semi spread with no tie or jacket.  I could see it looking odd, but maybe I'm wrong.  

post #4474 of 6199

@spiermackay will you guys dart shirts before sending them out, for an additional fee?

post #4475 of 6199
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post
 

They did a light blue linen and white linen BD already.  I have the full spread collar on a few of my S&M shirts.  It's a great collar.  I know some people have issue wearing ties with linen shirts, but I think this would look great with a tie and sport coat or just with a sport coat and no tie.  Great in the spring and summer when you want to look put together, but it's too hot for other fabrics.  


I think the point is that those of us who don't live on this forum waiting eagerly for the latest releases can't get the shirts we want due to being sold out by the time we order. The linen BDs I wanted were sold out by the time I read here that they were released. I was amazed just now that the pink linen was still available in my size 20 hours after it was announced here and managed to get one. Too bad I won't be ever be getting the white and mauve linen BDs I wanted. I've been totally happy with the quality/price of my S&M shirts. They are certainly equal in quality to the BB shirts I have with maybe the exception of the poplin one, I'm not fond of the cloth on it.

 

AAS, I didn't see that you had the exact same complaint in a different reply, sorry if the tone of this is off-putting. I didn't mean it to be that way.


Edited by winghus - 6/22/16 at 2:30pm
post #4476 of 6199

Where on the website do you handle the MTM on suiting and jackets? Is it by email only? I wanted to check pricing and if through MTM you could go to size 48 as I'm pretty sure your 46R would be too slim for me. I also want a lower button stance than your standard. I would have ordered a 46R or 46L by now to try since you'll do free return on a first purchase but IMO the button stance is too high for my body and no point in going through the trouble if I was already unsure if about it before ordering.

post #4477 of 6199
Thread Starter 

Hi Guys, I just want to address the supply of the Linen/Cotton-Linen. We don't intentionally try to limit the quantity available. Our process and business model is different than that of a typical brand/retailer.

 

We typically purchase stock that is already available from the mill. The mill has only a finite quantity on hand that is available at any given time and this quantity is usually small. Also, we are only in a position to purchase so much of any one given fabric. If we were to place a mill order for a fabric, that min. quantity order is 500 meters/colour/fabric. So for example, for a blue linen, we would have to order 500 metres. This yields approx. 300 shirts in just one fabric and one colour! now if we were to run say 4 or 5 colours, we are in for 1200 - 1500 shirts. We are no where near the size to move that many Linen shirts and still supply a variety of other fabrics during the season. The amount of capital that would be tied up in one item is not possible at the moment.

 

The repeat order of linen, we were only able to secure about 80 metres in each colour, which made less than 50 shirts/colour.

 

As we had great reaction on the oxford, we have already made the investment to purchase the min. qty from the mill. This process takes 60 days just to get the fabric, another 30-45 days to manufacture and up to 30 days for shipping. To ramp up to keep the OCBD as an "in stock" program actually takes a lot of planning, time and capital. It's a pretty big investment for us, so any wrong step can seriously hurt a small company like ours.

 

I think folks tend to forget, that we are still a small business. Like Epaulet or eHaberdasher. Hopefully, fingers crossed, we continue on our growth path and we can start to scale and match our inventory to demand better for seasonal items.

post #4478 of 6199
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by winghus View Post
 

Where on the website do you handle the MTM on suiting and jackets? Is it by email only? I wanted to check pricing and if through MTM you could go to size 48 as I'm pretty sure your 46R would be too slim for me. I also want a lower button stance than your standard. I would have ordered a 46R or 46L by now to try since you'll do free return on a first purchase but IMO the button stance is too high for my body and no point in going through the trouble if I was already unsure if about it before ordering.

 

Email only at the moment. Which suit did you try? The Model 1 or 2?

post #4479 of 6199
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

Hi Guys, I just want to address the supply of the Linen/Cotton-Linen. We don't intentionally try to limit the quantity available. Our process and business model is different than that of a typical brand/retailer.

 

We typically purchase stock that is already available from the mill. The mill has only a finite quantity on hand that is available at any given time and this quantity is usually small. Also, we are only in a position to purchase so much of any one given fabric. If we were to place a mill order for a fabric, that min. quantity order is 500 meters/colour/fabric. So for example, for a blue linen, we would have to order 500 metres. This yields approx. 300 shirts in just one fabric and one colour! now if we were to run say 4 or 5 colours, we are in for 1200 - 1500 shirts. We are no where near the size to move that many Linen shirts and still supply a variety of other fabrics during the season. The amount of capital that would be tied up in one item is not possible at the moment.

 

The repeat order of linen, we were only able to secure about 80 metres in each colour, which made less than 50 shirts/colour.

 

As we had great reaction on the oxford, we have already made the investment to purchase the min. qty from the mill. This process takes 60 days just to get the fabric, another 30-45 days to manufacture and up to 30 days for shipping. To ramp up to keep the OCBD as an "in stock" program actually takes a lot of planning, time and capital. It's a pretty big investment for us, so any wrong step can seriously hurt a small company like ours.

 

I think folks tend to forget, that we are still a small business. Like Epaulet or eHaberdasher. Hopefully, fingers crossed, we continue on our growth path and we can start to scale and match our inventory to demand better for seasonal items.

I appreciate you taking the time to explain that.  It makes sense.  Thanks.  

post #4480 of 6199
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldofdreams View Post
 

@spiermackay will you guys dart shirts before sending them out, for an additional fee?

 

Sure can. Costs $10 CAD/shirt. Just request it in the notes when you order and how much you want the darts to take the shirt in by. Takes about 2 days extra to process.

post #4481 of 6199
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

 

Sure can. Costs $10 CAD/shirt. Just request it in the notes when you order and how much you want the darts to take the shirt in by. Takes about 2 days extra to process.


Talk about going above and beyond.  You guys are awesome.

post #4482 of 6199

I haven't ordered either due to seeing other fit pics and being pretty sure I want the button lower. Not a problem, I'll email at some point about MTM. 

 

As far as my comment about short supply, I'm not that miffed about it since I DO understand you're really small and take what's available from the mills. I would much rather you guys keep doing business the way you are and grow slowly than to throw customer service out the window trying to expand as fast as possible. We don't need another Combatant Gent debacle and Suit Supply is a large international company so guys like us  expecting that level of inventory/variety available is not realistic

post #4483 of 6199
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

 

Sure can. Costs $10 CAD/shirt. Just request it in the notes when you order and how much you want the darts to take the shirt in by. Takes about 2 days extra to process.


I just ordered three shirts.  I'm asking for them to be darted.  I had no idea you would do this. Although it makes sense that you would.  Anyway I'm going to dm you my order number just to make sure.

post #4484 of 6199
Quote:
Originally Posted by winghus View Post
Suit Supply is a large international company so guys like us  expecting that level of inventory/variety available is not realistic

+1. Rick's said numerous times that S&M is a young, small business and doesn't have the economies of scale or capital that SS has, the comparisons being made about stock, range of fabrics, etc., are kind of unfair.

post #4485 of 6199
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by losrockets View Post
 

+1. Rick's said numerous times that S&M is a young, small business and doesn't have the economies of scale or capital that SS has, the comparisons being made about stock, range of fabrics, etc., are kind of unfair.

 

It's always incredibly flattering to be mentioned in the same sentence as Suitsupply. It has to mean that we are doing something right. A real David v Goliath type situation here. What we have to do is really make a strong point of differentiation. Suitsupply has a great product, great depth in their collection and a variety of fits. Not to mention the physical presence of all their stores for easy access to try sizes, etc.

 

So for us to convince a customer to give us a shot OVER Suitsupply we have to offer a more solid value, and we feel that we are delivering on that when comparing apples to apples. They do have the leg up for variety of fabric/styles. I've seen many SS suits, I've seen them opened up, we've done alterations on many and the construction, for the most part, is no better than what we are offering. Their canvassing is a bit lighter, but that is subjective to the wearer. In some cases, the finishing was subpar. In other cases the finish was impeccable as on a recent Sienna that was brought in. I cannot speak to the Jort or La Spalla though, those should be a different animal given the price point and factory they are coming out of they should be close to flawless.  On the other end is a Havana sportcoat I handled recently. The finish on the inside is so minimal and compromised, that if you removed the label, it would look like a jacket made for Zara. As a quarter lined jacket, the inside facing should be made of self fabric, in the case of the Havana, it's using lining. This is a straight up cost savings technique. Not to mention the VBC hopsack it was made from. The cloth was very coarse and stiff. The collar felt like cardboard. Not a very impressive jacket.

 

So how do we create a better overall value? We try to create a suit that meets all the criteria that our customers are looking for, who also happen to be looking at SS (or J.Crew or Bonobos or anyone else in the $400 -  $700 range). They are looking for well fitting, high quality suits that don't break the bank. Guys want to look good, but don't want to spend a fortune doing so and in many cases don't have the means to do so. We really want to make dressing well and with quality, affordable for everyone. First we focus on our fit and cut. We are always tinkering and working to improve this, but so far, we find that between the Contemporary and Slim, we can fit about 80% of the customers who come to us rather well. We can't fit 100%, but that's what our custom program is for. We're always open to suggestions for improvement. We do listen. Our styling is basic, but classic.

 

Second we focus jointly on quality and value. We make decisions on quality based on overall value. Can we add more handwork? Yes, but that will add cost, but not necessarily increased value to our customers who want to stay within a certain price range. Can we use Italian milled fabric? We can, but is it entirely necessary? We can't purchase the same quantity as SS, so we cannot get anywhere near the pricing discounts they get. So we cannot compete on that front. The cloth we use from Dino Filarte now, if handled blind is almost indistinguishable from their Italian counterparts. The mill itself was set up by the Biella based Filarte. The hand is "smoother" rather than "softer" (I'm speaking solely on the 110's). But the value of Filarte cloth, we feel is much higher, which is why we work with them so closely. We are starting to work a bit with a few other Asian Mills, including Huddersfield cloth made in Asia, which is really spectacular. Again the value of the cloth is an advantage. After all is said and done, we feel the end product can rival that of SS, but at a consistent price of $468 CAD and during our bundles, about $400 CAD, which is close to $320 USD and that's across all designs, not just the basic stuff of SS Blue Line, so the savings can be significant.

 

I wouldn't call us a bargain brand, I save that for H&M or Zara, and I can't agree that SS is a superior quality make, just from my knowledge of suit construction and personally handling their products. They do have great fabrics and yes, some of their luxury fabrics have a better feel, as 130's and 150's fabrics should. But you will be paying more for it. A lot more, but to say that there is a day/night difference would be unfair.

 

So that's just a bit of insight into our tiny company about our head space and how we approach the market. That said, I have some pretty exciting news that makes the value of suits that much sweeter. I'll reveal that news a bit later next week after all the details are finalized.

 

Sorry for the long post, but I know the comparison has been mentioned a lot recently, and I wanted to share my two cents.

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