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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 248

post #3706 of 6232

@spiermackay, which of the trouser fits is closest to the Walt fit from Epaulet?  Thanks!

post #3707 of 6232

I like the idea of you guys getting more TM fabrics in.

 

Now that I have my fit pretty much spot on my biggest wish list items would be catching up to Epaulet/Proper Cloth in terms of fabric selection. 

post #3708 of 6232
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sudonihm View Post
 

@spiermackay, which of the trouser fits is closest to the Walt fit from Epaulet?  Thanks!

 

I'd say Slim based on the site measurements. The SM slim is a little more narrow in the leg opening but more thigh room (about an inch more) and waist room (.5 more) when comparing size to size.

 

 

 

post #3709 of 6232
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MSchapiro View Post
 

I like the idea of you guys getting more TM fabrics in.

 

Now that I have my fit pretty much spot on my biggest wish list items would be catching up to Epaulet/Proper Cloth in terms of fabric selection. 

 

What fabrics are you looking for? We have over 200 fabrics up right now, which is a lot more than Epaulet.

 

Propercloth has a pretty deep collection now though.

post #3710 of 6232
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burzan View Post
 

 

I'd say Slim based on the site measurements. The SM slim is a little more narrow in the leg opening but more thigh room (about an inch more) and waist room (.5 more) when comparing size to size.

 

 

 

 

That sounds about right. But I think Epaulet measures the thigh at a different point than we do. If they were to measure the same way, I'm sure they would be pretty much par.

 

Not sure how they have a consistent 10" rise from a 28 to 36. That seems strange.

post #3711 of 6232

I have both SM cuts and all the EP cuts (new 2 high rise cuts aside..)

 

 

The Contemporary -1 size from your Walt size is the most similar.  

 

The SM slim is pretty slim and I take that in the same size as Driggs & Walt.  Fits similar to a Driggs but the rise is shorter on the SM.  And noticebly.      

 

 

Keep in mind the rise on SM's pants are lower so they fit a bit different on both accounts.

 

 

I like both very much, my go to pants are the Contemp SM and the Walts.  I love the Driggs too but in more daring material is where they shine.  

 

Walt and SM Contemp are proper "slim fitting" dress trousers that fit in anywhere without looking "too slim".

 

 

32 SM Contemp

33 SM Slim

33 Walt

33 Driggs

33 Old Rivet

33 New Rivet

 

No waist alteration on any of them.  Thighs opened on 1 pair of Driggs, other pair was fine.   

post #3712 of 6232
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

 

What fabrics are you looking for? We have over 200 fabrics up right now, which is a lot more than Epaulet.

 

Propercloth has a pretty deep collection now though.

Epaulet wise I'd say that they have some pretty cool casual fabrics and linens. Their strength is in their Ends events where they have really unique stuff. Their Albini oxfords are great though. 

 

For PC their Canclini fabrics are great. 

 

Some of the double sided fabrics like this are really nice:

http://propercloth.com/fabrics/blue-and-charcoal-large-plaid-805.html

 

Their slub weave.

 

This one: http://propercloth.com/fabrics/canclini-indigo-houndstooth-beacon-flannel-1433.html

 

I think overall though I have a few common shirts, like a blue twill from you and a blue canclini twill from PC. Your shirt is 10x better value than the PC one, but at the same time I find their fabric to be more comfortable. I haven't had the chance to try one of the new Monti fabrics yet, so that may change my opinion. 

post #3713 of 6232

Honestly I find a solid 1/3 to 1/2 of the special fabrics and, really, Epaulet goods in general, to be unattractive. I like SW&D but Epaulet seems to be doing a weird straddle of that and classic stuff in a way that I find unappealing. Once in a while they'll get some nice simple fabrics but generally I'm quite meh on the stuff that seems to get the most love in that thread. That said I do have my a handful of EP items that I quite like.

Rick, any consideration to increasing the rise on your contemporary fit trousers across the board by 0.5"? I wear a 33-34w and an 11" rise would be really nice. I'll probably do this when I start ordering MTM regardless.

post #3714 of 6232
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MSchapiro View Post
 

Epaulet wise I'd say that they have some pretty cool casual fabrics and linens. Their strength is in their Ends events where they have really unique stuff. Their Albini oxfords are great though. 

 

For PC their Canclini fabrics are great. 

 

Some of the double sided fabrics like this are really nice:

http://propercloth.com/fabrics/blue-and-charcoal-large-plaid-805.html

 

Their slub weave.

 

This one: http://propercloth.com/fabrics/canclini-indigo-houndstooth-beacon-flannel-1433.html

 

I think overall though I have a few common shirts, like a blue twill from you and a blue canclini twill from PC. Your shirt is 10x better value than the PC one, but at the same time I find their fabric to be more comfortable. I haven't had the chance to try one of the new Monti fabrics yet, so that may change my opinion. 

 

More along the casual lines then. Got it. We have a supplier that consistently has double side fabrics. I'll look into that.

 

Our Fine twill is 2/80's. Good balance between Durability/Quality and Value. I'm going to guess the Canclini was probably 2/100's or higher, probably slightly finer fabric?

post #3715 of 6232

I hope I'm not being unreasonable, but it's now been 8 days since I e-mailed my custom shirt order and the invoice hasn't been sent to me for payment. I even called a few days ago to make sure a second e-mail wasn't missed prior to sending to production, and still nothing. I am sure that the invoice must be paid before production can begin, so it's now more than a week delayed. I know a custom order won't be done overnight, but having it 8 days sooner by getting an invoice immediately would be nice.

post #3716 of 6232
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by flvinny521 View Post
 

I hope I'm not being unreasonable, but it's now been 8 days since I e-mailed my custom shirt order and the invoice hasn't been sent to me for payment. I even called a few days ago to make sure a second e-mail wasn't missed prior to sending to production, and still nothing. I am sure that the invoice must be paid before production can begin, so it's now more than a week delayed. I know a custom order won't be done overnight, but having it 8 days sooner by getting an invoice immediately would be nice.

 

Your order has already started processing, as you confirmed through me via pm. Paypal invoices are done in cycles and usually cued up once a week and sent out. Let me check on that.

 

My accountant just advised that the invoice and payment request was sent to yesterday to the account we have on record. Please pm me if you need it sent again.

post #3717 of 6232
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 
 

Your order has already started processing, as you confirmed through me via pm. Paypal invoices are done in cycles and usually cued up once a week and sent out. Let me check on that.

 

My accountant just advised that the invoice and payment request was sent to yesterday to the account we have on record. Please pm me if you need it sent again.

 

Then my apologies, I thought the processing couldn't begin until the order was paid. I'll take it to PM.

post #3718 of 6232
Quote:
Originally Posted by losrockets View Post
 

Honestly I find a solid 1/3 to 1/2 of the special fabrics and, really, Epaulet goods in general, to be unattractive. I like SW&D but Epaulet seems to be doing a weird straddle of that and classic stuff in a way that I find unappealing. Once in a while they'll get some nice simple fabrics but generally I'm quite meh on the stuff that seems to get the most love in that thread. That said I do have my a handful of EP items that I quite like.

Rick, any consideration to increasing the rise on your contemporary fit trousers across the board by 0.5"? I wear a 33-34w and an 11" rise would be really nice. I'll probably do this when I start ordering MTM regardless.

I think half the Epaulet fabrics don't appeal to me and half I love. I like that they have something for all tastes. Not sure if that is something that appeals to S&M though. It's also a different model since Epaulet doesn't own the fabrics. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

 

More along the casual lines then. Got it. We have a supplier that consistently has double side fabrics. I'll look into that.

 

Our Fine twill is 2/80's. Good balance between Durability/Quality and Value. I'm going to guess the Canclini was probably 2/100's or higher, probably slightly finer fabric?

Yup, 2/100s. Don't get me wrong, I love my shirts (I usually go for Royal Twills), but I want a ratio of 5 work horse shirts to 1 higher end one. Right now you do the 5 well, I'd just want to be able to add the occasional one to my collection. You have all the bases of a standard work shirt covered along with a chunk of more casual fabrics, but PC and Epaulet come out with fabrics youd never see in a store or have never seen before, I think that is what I'm yearning for. Your madras is a good example of something that makes me excited to get an S&M shirt and isnt really available anywhere else. 

post #3719 of 6232
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MSchapiro View Post
 

I think half the Epaulet fabrics don't appeal to me and half I love. I like that they have something for all tastes. Not sure if that is something that appeals to S&M though. It's also a different model since Epaulet doesn't own the fabrics. 

Yup, 2/100s. Don't get me wrong, I love my shirts (I usually go for Royal Twills), but I want a ratio of 5 work horse shirts to 1 higher end one. Right now you do the 5 well, I'd just want to be able to add the occasional one to my collection. You have all the bases of a standard work shirt covered along with a chunk of more casual fabrics, but PC and Epaulet come out with fabrics youd never see in a store or have never seen before, I think that is what I'm yearning for. Your madras is a good example of something that makes me excited to get an S&M shirt and isnt really available anywhere else. 

 

I knew it! 2/100 will be a bit smoother and more comfortable to wear, but it won't wear as well for as long. Great insight into alternative cloth. We have a lot of resources that we haven't tapped yet, so we'll probably slowly start introducing more casuals into the mix.

 

We're already expanding into Casuals with OTR, with the Semi-Cas, oxford, polos and soon to release new chinos. It's a nice market to slowly push our way into.

post #3720 of 6232

I'm super excited for your polos. Sadly nothing OTR fits me.

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