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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 213

post #3181 of 6172
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post


Also looking at adding an interesting blue (besides navy) C41 is what we're leaning towards.





Also, basic Navy, Mid Gray, Charcoal, and a Camel/Light Brown shade.

Really like the C40 and C39 as well, at least as they appear in this picture.

Rick, what do we have in store for SS trouser fabrics? I'd like to see some light grey and off-white options.
post #3182 of 6172
Some off white or cream would be great. I would be into this if they were cotton,linen or lightweight wool.

There's been talk on some blogs of how hard it it to find chinos with a reasonable rise and slim leg. I think that would be a great staple, if it was a material that could do double duty with a SC or more casual look. Could offer a similair thing in moleskin or heavier Cotton in the autumn.

To echo previous posters I would love to see a whole lot of grey trousers. Less patterns, more texture would be my preference.
post #3183 of 6172
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamie411 View Post


Really like the C40 and C39 as well, at least as they appear in this picture.

Rick, what do we have in store for SS trouser fabrics? I'd like to see some light grey and off-white options.


IIRC, he's stated before that getting really light grey wool is difficult. I know it's hard to find and sells out quickly in the places I check.

post #3184 of 6172

Any chance you can tell me around what time of the year I can check back for those new suits? I apologize as I'm rarely on here.

post #3185 of 6172
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by home View Post

Some off white or cream would be great. I would be into this if they were cotton,linen or lightweight wool.

There's been talk on some blogs of how hard it it to find chinos with a reasonable rise and slim leg. I think that would be a great staple, if it was a material that could do double duty with a SC or more casual look. Could offer a similair thing in moleskin or heavier Cotton in the autumn.

To echo previous posters I would love to see a whole lot of grey trousers. Less patterns, more texture would be my preference.

 

This is something we are actively working on. One of the big challenges we face is the small size of our company. It's quite easy to simply go out a purchase fabric from Italian suppliers, which have an extensive stock collection that is readily available in a variety of colours, BUT the price also reflects that. Our "Value" component will get significantly diluted. Not to say we haven't explored this avenue yet, we would still be able to produce trousers and be competitive with the Howard Yount and Epaulets of the world, but as a company we aren't there just yet.

 

That said, we have made some significant strides in the last year and have started development on our own cloth for our new Chino program. The new prototype has already been made and we expect it in our hands by next week. We have a good lead on Trouser weight Linen and Tropical Wools.

 

A very light grey is incredibly difficult to get, even from stock. This is another item we've given our supplier for development, which we hope we can roll out for next spring.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by winghus View Post
 


IIRC, he's stated before that getting really light grey wool is difficult. I know it's hard to find and sells out quickly in the places I check.

 

We plan on getting this as a staple item in our collection. There is a great high demand for it.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DomoKun View Post
 

Any chance you can tell me around what time of the year I can check back for those new suits? I apologize as I'm rarely on here.

 

End of this month or Early March.

post #3186 of 6172

Went in for a visit yesterday and talked to Rick.  

 

Looked at the Guabello Jacketing book (110-130 I believe wool, wool/silk, wool/cash).  WOW!  I'll admit, I have never seen a Guabello book before but the cloths were beautiful.  Everything had a great hand, and some gorgeous colours/patterns.  

 

I'll be submitting an MTM by the end of the month, and will keep you all posted.  Very excited for this little project. 

post #3187 of 6172
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadaCal View Post
 

Went in for a visit yesterday and talked to Rick.  

 

Looked at the Guabello Jacketing book (110-130 I believe wool, wool/silk, wool/cash).  WOW!  I'll admit, I have never seen a Guabello book before but the cloths were beautiful.  Everything had a great hand, and some gorgeous colours/patterns.  

 

I'll be submitting an MTM by the end of the month, and will keep you all posted.  Very excited for this little project. 

 

After seeing how that waistcoat turned out, I think I just might get something for myself. The fabric is really something to behold.

post #3188 of 6172

Agreed, its was very nicely done.  Some of those swatches would make insane 3 piece suits too.  

post #3189 of 6172

Grabbed four shirts that were delivered yesterday. Contemporary fit isn't perfect for me, but it's pretty close, so I bought two casual and two business shirts. I'm now having second thoughts on this one. The stripes are very dark charcoal, almost black, which makes me think the shirt will work only with a black tie. Anybody else have this shirt or any suggestions on how to wear it? At this point I think I may return it unopened in exchange for something else.

 

 

 

Also, @spiermackay@SPIER & MACKAY, I've never used your MTM service before, but I'm considering trying you out as an alternative to Luxire. Can I use your Contemporary fit as a starting point and adjust my measurements from there, or are the shirts made at a different plant and they won't have access to that pattern? The body of your OTR shirt fits well, but the armholes, arms and shoulder need a bit of work for me to consider them as my go-to shirt going forward.

post #3190 of 6172
Quote:
Originally Posted by flvinny521 View Post
 

Grabbed four shirts that were delivered yesterday. Contemporary fit isn't perfect for me, but it's pretty close, so I bought two casual and two business shirts. I'm now having second thoughts on this one. The stripes are very dark charcoal, almost black, which makes me think the shirt will work only with a black tie. Anybody else have this shirt or any suggestions on how to wear it? At this point I think I may return it unopened in exchange for something else.

 

 

 

Also, @spiermackay@SPIER & MACKAY, I've never used your MTM service before, but I'm considering trying you out as an alternative to Luxire. Can I use your Contemporary fit as a starting point and adjust my measurements from there, or are the shirts made at a different plant and they won't have access to that pattern? The body of your OTR shirt fits well, but the armholes, arms and shoulder need a bit of work for me to consider them as my go-to shirt going forward.

I have three MTM shirts coming today and did just that.  I adjusted my measurements from their slim fit shirt.  I basically said add .5" to chest and subtract .5" from cuff and sleeve length.  I'll update how it turns out.

post #3191 of 6172

^That's probably not very versatile shirt. Start with light blue shirts and shirts with light blue stripes. I also wonder why they are making shirts in very casual fabrics (floral patterns) with wide spread collars and long collar points. If this is the idea, I highly recommend implementing spread collar on the oxfords fabrics.

post #3192 of 6172
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldofdreams View Post
 
 

I have three MTM shirts coming today and did just that.  I adjusted my measurements from their slim fit shirt.  I basically said add .5" to chest and subtract .5" from cuff and sleeve length.  I'll update how it turns out.

 

Please do, I'll be happy to know if this works well.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post
 

^That's probably not very versatile shirt. Start with light blue shirts and shirts with light blue stripes. I also wonder why they are making shirts in very casual fabrics (floral patterns) with wide spread collars and long collar points. If this is the idea, I highly recommend implementing spread collar on the oxfords fabrics.

 

Honestly I was picking out of the sale fabrics, so staples weren't included. Most of my shirts have been coming from Luxire, and exclusively in those fabrics you recommended, but I thought I could add a few at a much cheaper price this way. I also noticed that a lot of the RTW shirts have the "wrong" collars, but it also seems like the RTW fabrics are not always available in MTM. Is this true, or are they just frequently out of stock? I'd love to be able to choose from all (or at least most) of the RTW shirts, but changing some details, like the collars.

post #3193 of 6172
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by flvinny521 View Post
 

Also, @spiermackay, I've never used your MTM service before, but I'm considering trying you out as an alternative to Luxire. Can I use your Contemporary fit as a starting point and adjust my measurements from there, or are the shirts made at a different plant and they won't have access to that pattern? The body of your OTR shirt fits well, but the armholes, arms and shoulder need a bit of work for me to consider them as my go-to shirt going forward.

 

You can, but I suggest taking the physical measurements from the shirt you have and making adjustments to that, as there are natural variations in OTR manufacturing.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post
 

^That's probably not very versatile shirt. Start with light blue shirts and shirts with light blue stripes. I also wonder why they are making shirts in very casual fabrics (floral patterns) with wide spread collars and long collar points. If this is the idea, I highly recommend implementing spread collar on the oxfords fabrics.

 

You won't believe me when I tell you how much better they sell this way than if they were made into traditional casual shirts with soft collars, etc.

post #3194 of 6172
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by flvinny521 View Post
Honestly I was picking out of the sale fabrics, so staples weren't included. Most of my shirts have been coming from Luxire, and exclusively in those fabrics you recommended, but I thought I could add a few at a much cheaper price this way. I also noticed that a lot of the RTW shirts have the "wrong" collars, but it also seems like the RTW fabrics are not always available in MTM. Is this true, or are they just frequently out of stock? I'd love to be able to choose from all (or at least most) of the RTW shirts, but changing some details, like the collars.

 

Can you kindly clarify what you mean by this?

 

Not all RTW fabrics are available in MTM. A vast majority are or were and have since sold out. When we purchase cloth, we roughly keep 80% for OTR and 20% for MTM.  Because of the time/production lag of OTR, the MTM fabrics generally are offered before the OTR shows up for sale.

post #3195 of 6172
Quote:
Originally Posted by flvinny521 View Post
 

 

Please do, I'll be happy to know if this works well.

 

 

 

 

It worked well for me.  My tweaks were very minor though, as the slim fit fits me very well.  I didn't want to measure a shirt and send it in, in fear that shrinkage would not be accounted for.

 

I'm wearing a blue oxford cloth dress shirt.  I went a little crazy and got it with an extreme spread.  Actually all three shirts have unfused extreme spread collars.  Two were average price shirts and one was a Thomas Mason cloth.  For the TM, i opted for MOP buttons.  Both shirts are white/blue striped.  The one on the right is the TM.  It has a very thin bengal stripe.  It would appear solid even during normal conversation distance.  I'm pleased.  I can never have too many blue shirts.  

 

Fun Fact:  According to @spiermackay this is the first unfused extreme spread (a soft cutaway) that they have done.

 

 

 

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