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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 210

post #3136 of 6174
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

Hello Gentlemen, sorry for being away for a bit. I'm just overseas at the moment picking up some new shirt fabrics for SS. We're really grateful for that review. Feels really good to meet customers expectations, especially those that are skeptical in the first place! Our suit program is not quite 4 seasons old yet, so we have a lot of growing up to do and we can only get better.  Thanks everyone, all our customers, for all the incredible support.

 

BTW, new downtown shop is already under construction and we're working as quickly as possible to get it open ASAP. I think what we're doing there is going to be pretty impressive.

 

Off to buy some linen and madras today, so keep an eye out for that.

 

Side note: Just found out yesterday, the mill we're making our Oxford in, makes a bunch of cloth for Kamakura, including their 4 Ply/200's stuff. The textile technician who we worked with on the development, said that our 40's x 2/20's construction is superior to the Kamakura 40's x 10's because of the 2 ply weft yarn. It will break in better and retain a smoother/cleaner surface texture longer. Really excited now!

 

The madras were my favs of last year. I have 3 and love how they turned out (still eyeing two more colors in my size but waiting on an oxford to try too), I will say that the collars need maybe a hair more lining next go around, if they were unlined, maybe adding a self lined layer to them. 

post #3137 of 6174

Agreed about the Madras collars. Looking forward to both the new linen and Madras offerings!

post #3138 of 6174

Anyone have any current coupon codes? I need more of their dress pants.

post #3139 of 6174
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burzan View Post
 

 

The madras were my favs of last year. I have 3 and love how they turned out (still eyeing two more colors in my size but waiting on an oxford to try too), I will say that the collars need maybe a hair more lining next go around, if they were unlined, maybe adding a self lined layer to them. 

 

The collars had two layers of self lining, which is very typical of traditional madras. The collar will be a bit limp. That said, we are going to add a tiny bit of extra lining to the new madras this year.

post #3140 of 6174
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

 

The collars had two layers of self lining, which is very typical of traditional madras. The collar will be a bit limp. That said, we are going to add a tiny bit of extra lining to the new madras this year.

 

Sounds like we are on the same wavelength, it doesn't need much. Cannot wait to see a preview of the patterns.

post #3141 of 6174

I got my first S&M shirt.  Light Blue & White Oban Stripe.  Pictures are below.  This is after one wash in warm water then hung to dry.  I think I need to make several adjustments and would love to hear your input.  

 

 

After one wash (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. The collar is too big by about 0.5 to 0.25 inch.

2. The shoulders are too narrow by 0.5 to 1 inch.  

3. The armhole is too small/high.  Needs to be increased by 0.5 to 1 inch.

4. I wouldn't mind taking in the waist a bit.  0.5 inch.  Maybe add some darts.  

5. Sleeves should be longer.  0.5 inch. 

6. Corrections for forward/sloping shoulders.  

 

Issues that I hope these changes will fix, but am unsure about.

1. Horizontal lines/puckering at yoke. 

2. Diagonal lines from armpit to collar in front and back.  

3. Tightness in bicep/armpit when I raise my arms.  

 

Pros.  

Collar is great.  Looks good buttoned or unbuttoned.  

Construction is great. 

Great pattern.

 

Cons.

I'm not a fan of the fabric.  It feels kind of brittle and overly smooth.  It was one of the cheapest fabrics available.  I think it's fine at that price point though.  

 

I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts about the fit.  Thanks in advance.  

post #3142 of 6174
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post #3143 of 6174
Quote:
Originally Posted by dappercanadian View Post

Everything looks good to me except sleeve length. I'd add a full inch to your left arm and 0.5 to your right if wearing with a jacket.
post #3144 of 6174
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post
 

I got my first S&M shirt.  Light Blue & White Oban Stripe.  Pictures are below.  This is after one wash in warm water then hung to dry.  I think I need to make several adjustments and would love to hear your input.  

 

 

1. The collar is too big by about 0.5 to 0.25 inch.

2. The shoulders are too narrow by 0.5 to 1 inch.  

3. The armhole is too small/high.  Needs to be increased by 0.5 to 1 inch.

4. I wouldn't mind taking in the waist a bit.  0.5 inch.  Maybe add some darts.  

5. Sleeves should be longer.  0.5 inch. 

6. Corrections for forward/sloping shoulders.  

 

Issues that I hope these changes will fix, but am unsure about.

1. Horizontal lines/puckering at yoke. 

2. Diagonal lines from armpit to collar in front and back.  

3. Tightness in bicep/armpit when I raise my arms.  

 

Pros.  

Collar is great.  Looks good buttoned or unbuttoned.  

Construction is great. 

Great pattern.

 

Cons.

I'm not a fan of the fabric.  It feels kind of brittle and overly smooth.  It was one of the cheapest fabrics available.  I think it's fine at that price point though.  

 

I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts about the fit.  Thanks in advance.  

 

Your adjustments are pretty accurate. I would slope your shoulders 1/4". Take in the waist at the back panel only, no need for darts.

 

RE: The fabric. That is 100% Egyptian, 70 singles compacted yarn. It's pretty much the equivalent to 2 Ply 140's in weight and performance. The poplin weave, by nature is very smooth, very silky. But I assure you it's not brittle. It's quite resilient. The more you wash and wear it the more it will break in and become a favorite. We've been running that cloth for almost 5 years without incident.

post #3145 of 6174
Rick,

I have a engagement party and 2 weddings this year. When will your new suits be coming out? Engagement party is in March
post #3146 of 6174
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7_rocket View Post

Rick,

I have a engagement party and 2 weddings this year. When will your new suits be coming out? Engagement party is in March

 

Mid to end of Feb.

post #3147 of 6174
Will newer suits feature wider lapels for the slim cut?
post #3148 of 6174
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

 

Mid to end of Feb.


Can't wait to see what's going to be available!

post #3149 of 6174
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post

Mid to end of Feb.

Does that include the full canvas?
post #3150 of 6174
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vespertiliovir View Post


Does that include the full canvas?

 

Full Canvas will be April-ish. Production will start only after the Chinese New Year.

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