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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 208

post #3106 of 6230

For a suit I would want a longer jacket length. I think shortening the sleeves wouldn't be that big an issue. If it was just a sport coat, I could probably live with it. I would go for a 40R. The buttoning point might be a tad lower on a 40R. Currently it's not terrible, but lower would look even better IMHO. I don't think the waist really needs to be let out. 

post #3107 of 6230
^ sorry but I have to disagree w/ Chambertin

I don't think this is a very good fit. It makes you look pear shaped (the hip area). If you open the vents it may help the jacket fall better, though.

I would also suggest to go with regular instead of short. You need to shorten sleeve anyway so why not get a slightly longer jacket to elongate your silhouette? An inch in length could do wonders.

The back of the jacket and the back of the sleeves worry me a bit, too but I don't know what the issue might be there, hopefully Rick or someone more knowledgeable will chime in.
post #3108 of 6230
But I do agree with Spex teacha.gif
post #3109 of 6230

Hey Rick (and others), just got a popup regarding malware on your site (was using Chrome):

 

 

EDIT: Dur, I'm an idiot, should've read a couple pages back.

post #3110 of 6230
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by burgerkong View Post
 

Hey Rick (and others), just got a popup regarding malware on your site (was using Chrome):

 

 

EDIT: Dur, I'm an idiot, should've read a couple pages back.

 

The problem has already been found and fixed. Confirmed by both our web developer and SEO Company. The website is perfectly safe to visit. Google takes about 48 hours after we submit to lift the warning as they want to verify that the problem has been found.

The problem wasn't with www.spierandmackay.com, it was on spiermackay.com, a domain that we use for testing, but because they are on the same server and have several shared folders, Google flagged it. But the problem has been fixed. The site is safe.

post #3111 of 6230
Thread Starter 

@thinksnow, the two areas that we can see right away are a bit of excess fabric at your upper back. Also, your sleeve needs to be pitched back a tiny bit. It looks like you have an upright posture with your shoulders pulled back slightly. These can be corrected by a decent tailor.

 

I also suggest to change to the Regular Length as it will lower the button stance and give you more of a traditional jacket length for your torso. Adjusting the sleeve 3/8" or 1" is essentially the same amount of work for any good tailor.

 

 

post #3112 of 6230
Rick, thank you very much for the feedback.

When you say pitch the sleeve back, does that involve removal of the sleeve and sewing it back on in the correct orientation? Maybe I should learn to hunch forward, it makes most jackets fit me much better.

Does the sleeve button stitching come out without a problem?

I need to find a good tailor in the Boston area, anyone have a recommendations? This is seems like it is going to be a bit more involved than shortening sleeves.

I will probably get an idea of the cost of these alteration and then do an exchange for the regular length if the cost isn't terrible.
post #3113 of 6230
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinksnow View Post

Rick, thank you very much for the feedback.

When you say pitch the sleeve back, does that involve removal of the sleeve and sewing it back on in the correct orientation? Maybe I should learn to hunch forward, it makes most jackets fit me much better.

Does the sleeve button stitching come out without a problem?

I need to find a good tailor in the Boston area, anyone have a recommendations? This is seems like it is going to be a bit more involved than shortening sleeves.

I will probably get an idea of the cost of these alteration and then do an exchange for the regular length if the cost isn't terrible.

 

Yes, pitch correction involves removing the sleeve, rotating it and sewing it back on. We do it in house for $40 CAD. The button stitching comes out and vanishes when properly steam pressed.

 

BR,

Rick

post #3114 of 6230
Quote:
 Yes, pitch correction involves removing the sleeve, rotating it and sewing it back on. We do it in house for $40 CAD. 

 

My guess is I will be lucky to find someone competent to rotate the sleeves for less than $100 USD and more likely $150.

 

I'll have to check a few places out in the Boston area. I should probably find a tailor that can do this, because most jackets would fit me better if I had this done.

 

I am thinking I should just plan to visit family up in Toronto at some point :-) 

post #3115 of 6230
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinksnow View Post
 

 

My guess is I will be lucky to find someone competent to rotate the sleeves for less than $100 USD and more likely $150.

 

I'll have to check a few places out in the Boston area. I should probably find a tailor that can do this, because most jackets would fit me better if I had this done.

 

I am thinking I should just plan to visit family up in Toronto at some point :-) 

 

We'd love to see you! Stop in anytime.

 

But, if you have the same problem in most jackets, it's attributed to your shoulders and pitch.

post #3116 of 6230
Just got my first custom shirt from S&M and I've worn it a couple times to work. I am really happy with the quality and the feel and to my newbie eye's the fit seems ok. I'd like to get some feedback on potential alterations before I give the ok for my others to be made.

p.s. it's been worn twice and hasn't been ironed sorry!




post #3117 of 6230
Quote:
Originally Posted by aridhol View Post

Just got my first custom shirt from S&M and I've worn it a couple times to work. I am really happy with the quality and the feel and to my newbie eye's the fit seems ok. I'd like to get some feedback on potential alterations before I give the ok for my others to be made.

p.s. it's been worn twice and hasn't been ironed sorry!




 

 

Reduce the width of the shirt sleeve cuff. It almost slides down to your first thumb knuckle. I would ask Rick on how you determine what the correct width is. 

 

I am not sure what the problem is with the front shoulder area (where there are lots of creasing). Maybe it's because it's not ironed. Iron it and see if it is still there. 

 

Move around in your shirt. Sit down in it (when you sit, check if the waist constricts and gets uncomfortable). Type on the computer while wearing it. Raise your hand, simulate you're driving a car. Reach for something that is on a shelf. Make sure that you're able to do all of these actions comfortably. This is something I wish I knew after I ordered my first MTM shirt. 

post #3118 of 6230
Quote:
Originally Posted by doodledoc View Post


Reduce the width of the shirt sleeve cuff. It almost slides down to your first thumb knuckle. I would ask Rick on how you determine what the correct width is. 

I am not sure what the problem is with the front shoulder area (where there are lots of creasing). Maybe it's because it's not ironed. Iron it and see if it is still there. 

Move around in your shirt. Sit down in it (when you sit, check if the waist constricts and gets uncomfortable). Type on the computer while wearing it. Raise your hand, simulate you're driving a car. Reach for something that is on a shelf. Make sure that you're able to do all of these actions comfortably. This is something I wish I knew after I ordered my first MTM shirt. 

Thanks smile.gif
I can do all those actions without difficulty.
I'll iron the shirt and see if the creases are still there, I didn't notice in the mirror when I was wearing it.
Do you mean reduce just the cuff or the width of the shirt at the forearm too?
post #3119 of 6230
^ You could maybe have the forearm slimmed down too, if you like, but definitely have the cuff size changed.
post #3120 of 6230
Quote:
Originally Posted by aridhol View Post


Thanks smile.gif
I can do all those actions without difficulty.
I'll iron the shirt and see if the creases are still there, I didn't notice in the mirror when I was wearing it.
Do you mean reduce just the cuff or the width of the shirt at the forearm too?

 

The cuff. If you feel that the forearm is too big, then that can be reduced also. But definitely the cuff width needs to be reduced. 

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