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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 197

post #2941 of 6207
Thread Starter 

This is how the current button position looks with the oxfords. Collar button and 2nd button undone. 3rd button is high enough to keep from showing too much chest.  If the button position were lower, more chest would be visible.  That said, This works really well on the dress shirts, as the collars are not anchored to the shirt like in an OCBD. So it may be possible on the OCBD's to move the button down a bit without sacrificing much.

 

post #2942 of 6207
Quote:
Originally Posted by OCBDPHD View Post
 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems the 2nd button preference is correlated with whether you unbutton just the top button or the top two. If, like me, you prefer to unbutton only the top one, I think dropping it down 1" will prevent the fabric pulling you see in the picture above. If you unbutton the top two, then lowering it might show more chest than you like. Most buttondown collars I've seen have the 2nd button at least 1" lower than the latest S&M design: Brooks Brothers (the originator!), Mercer, Kamakura, Lands' End, Uniqlo, Gitman, Gant, Lean Garments, etc.

 

2nd button placement is lower on my priority list behind fit, chest pocket included, collar roll, and fabric. But all I'm asking for is 1 tiny inch for the buttondown collared shirts! Maybe that's a nice compromise between the single and double unbuttoners? I think I could yield to having the current button placement on non-buttondowns.

 

Sorry, I should've clarified. I typically only the top button. On the dress shirts, the second button is positioned low enough that you can see a bit of chest, whereas the OCBD only allows neck to be shown. I preferred the dress shirts' buttoning locations, but I can live with either.

post #2943 of 6207

Rick's taking selfies!  Love it!

 

And in regards to the button positioning.  I wear both the collar and the first undone.  Looks plenty clean for the office environment.

post #2944 of 6207



Excuse the Cell phone picture, but I don't have a tripod setup in an office like the nerds over at WIWT biggrin.gif


Button down and pants from S&M

Pictures make the shirt look worse but it is what it is. I ironed this shirt before work

Yep I know the wallet kills it
post #2945 of 6207

We all look the same hahaha, S&M army!

post #2946 of 6207

I do find the trousers a tad too tapered, but that may boils down to personal preferences! 

 

I may order this shirt if it's available in my size though, I love it!

post #2947 of 6207

I just noticed the button stance issue was raised here in March, and a few people preferred the higher stance. Proper Cloth has a nice breakdown of the button stance issue, analyzing the different preferences: http://propercloth.com/reference/top-button-placement/

 

The current S&M placement is on the higher side of the button stance spectrum, which benefits those completely buttoned up and two-unbuttoned. I'm one-unbuttoned, so I prefer something closer to the default Proper Cloth. 1989 fashion-icon Jerry Seinfeld agrees with me ("no-man's-land!").;) I suppose there's a reason there's the custom option, but wouldn't it be convenient if the OTR was the same as my custom?

 

burgerkong, if I'm not mistaken, the dress shirts you have are probably older and have a lower button, whereas all of the newer shirts including dress shirts have higher buttons.

post #2948 of 6207
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnBC View Post

I do find the trousers a tad too tapered, but that may boils down to personal preferences! 

I may order this shirt if it's available in my size though, I love it!

Yep I understand. It's funny how you can't capture everything in a picture. I'm a pretty slim guy at 5'10 around 152lbs

The back of the shirt can be darted if I really wanted but its passable for a OTR shirt. The front is perfect however. I probably am just over analyzing
post #2949 of 6207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OCBDPHD View Post
 

I just noticed the button stance issue was raised here in March, and a few people preferred the higher stance. Proper Cloth has a nice breakdown of the button stance issue, analyzing the different preferences: http://propercloth.com/reference/top-button-placement/

 

The current S&M placement is on the higher side of the button stance spectrum, which benefits those completely buttoned up and two-unbuttoned. I'm one-unbuttoned, so I prefer something closer to the default Proper Cloth. 1989 fashion-icon Jerry Seinfeld agrees with me ("no-man's-land!").;) I suppose there's a reason there's the custom option, but wouldn't it be convenient if the OTR was the same as my custom?

 

burgerkong, if I'm not mistaken, the dress shirts you have are probably older and have a lower button, whereas all of the newer shirts including dress shirts have higher buttons.

 

That PC button position chart is great. From our survey, most prefer to wear the shirt with the collar and first button undone when not wearing a tie. The "standard" is simply too low and too much chest shows. This is why we raised it as a default. So far so good.

post #2950 of 6207
Thread Starter 

Does anyone know if there is a way to run a poll within this thread?

post #2951 of 6207
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7_rocket View Post

Yep I understand. It's funny how you can't capture everything in a picture. I'm a pretty slim guy at 5'10 around 152lbs

The back of the shirt can be darted if I really wanted but its passable for a OTR shirt. The front is perfect however. I probably am just over analyzing

I wouldn't dart a shirt with box pleats. I'd also taper less aggressively with that hem. That tight is for more if a cropped look, which I don't like. If you went 7.5" you could have a nice no break hem and your feet would look smaller. If you want a break you should probably get a little closer to 8". Being skinny unfortunately doesn't make your feet smaller. Just my free advice. But it is worth every penny.
post #2952 of 6207
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post

Does anyone know if there is a way to run a poll within this thread?
If I recall correctly, the polls I have seen on SF are all set up as new threads, then a link is placed in old (ongoing) thread out to the poll....
post #2953 of 6207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebichuman View Post


If I recall correctly, the polls I have seen on SF are all set up as new threads, then a link is placed in old (ongoing) thread out to the poll....

 

That's excellent. I'll see if we can get a poll set up for the great button position debate. Thank You!

post #2954 of 6207
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldofdreams View Post


I wouldn't dart a shirt with box pleats. I'd also taper less aggressively with that hem. That tight is for more if a cropped look, which I don't like. If you went 7.5" you could have a nice no break hem and your feet would look smaller. If you want a break you should probably get a little closer to 8". Being skinny unfortunately doesn't make your feet smaller. Just my free advice. But it is worth every penny.


I've darted a shirt with box pleats. It went poorly.

post #2955 of 6207
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post

This is how the current button position looks with the oxfords. Collar button and 2nd button undone. 3rd button is high enough to keep from showing too much chest.  If the button position were lower, more chest would be visible.  That said, This works really well on the dress shirts, as the collars are not anchored to the shirt like in an OCBD. So it may be possible on the OCBD's to move the button down a bit without sacrificing much.

That collar looks great. It looks good with the second button undone. Not as big an issue as I thought.
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