or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 195

post #2911 of 6199
Thread Starter 

So we received the new samples in, looks like we're going to go with the light fusing. You can see it here matched up against the Kamakura.

 

The collar roll is even more insane now. And because of the interlining, it has a lot more support.

 

post #2912 of 6199
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

So we received the new samples in, looks like we're going to go with the light fusing. You can see it here matched up against the Kamakura.

 

The collar roll is even more insane now. And because of the interlining, it has a lot more support.

 

 

For this new batch, will it have 1) a box pleat? 2) breast pocket?

 

I generally don't have use for button downs since I use metal collar stays and magnets but I'd try one out. If it will have a box pleat, I can just get a MTM one.

post #2913 of 6199
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by doodledoc View Post
 

 

For this new batch, will it have 1) a box pleat? 2) breast pocket?

 

I generally don't have use for button downs since I use metal collar stays and magnets but I'd try one out. If it will have a box pleat, I can just get a MTM one.

 

We are going to stay with the Box Pleat for now. It will have a breast pocket.

post #2914 of 6199

Quote:

Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

So we received the new samples in, looks like we're going to go with the light fusing. You can see it here matched up against the Kamakura.

 

The collar roll is even more insane now. And because of the interlining, it has a lot more support.

 

Nice collar. I think I could go either way between unfused and light fusing. That second button is still very high and close to the top button. Compare it with the Kamakura. How do people feel about that?

 

I'd also like to know how people feel about the tonal stitching, like blue stitching on blue OCBD. It seems most traditional OCBDs in all colors use white stitching. Not a dealbreaker for me, but I kind of like the look of the white.

post #2915 of 6199
Quote:
Originally Posted by OCBDPHD View Post

Quote:
Nice collar. I think I could go either way between unfused and light fusing. That second button is still very high and close to the top button. Compare it with the Kamakura. How do people feel about that?

I'd also like to know how people feel about the tonal stitching, like blue stitching on blue OCBD. It seems most traditional OCBDs in all colors use white stitching. Not a dealbreaker for me, but I kind of like the look of the white.

Why would you want the second button like the Kamakura? It's a button down collar meaning most of the time it should be worn without a tie (first button undone). The Kamakura second button is way too low from what I can tell in that picture.
post #2916 of 6199
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OCBDPHD View Post
 

Quote:

Nice collar. I think I could go either way between unfused and light fusing. That second button is still very high and close to the top button. Compare it with the Kamakura. How do people feel about that?

 

I'd also like to know how people feel about the tonal stitching, like blue stitching on blue OCBD. It seems most traditional OCBDs in all colors use white stitching. Not a dealbreaker for me, but I kind of like the look of the white.

 

The idea for raising the first button, was so you can wear the shirt with the collar button and first button open (so you don't look too buttoned up). The second button is now positioned high enough that it doesn't show too much chest. We've been getting great feedback on this change. But others can chime in here.

 

I think we'll do something along the lines of the white stitching for the purely casual ones, which we'll also do an unfused collar.

post #2917 of 6199

I never wear a tie so I also keep the top button undone. None of my other shirts have a second button this high, so it feels a bit more constricting in comparison, but I understand that some might like the change. My preference would be about 1-1.5" lower. I haven't seen many other shirts this high.

post #2918 of 6199
Love the new samples. Can't wait for them to get online!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
post #2919 of 6199
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OCBDPHD View Post
 

I never wear a tie so I also keep the top button undone. None of my other shirts have a second button this high, so it feels a bit more constricting in comparison, but I understand that some might like the change. My preference would be about 1-1.5" lower. I haven't seen many other shirts this high.

 

Most European Shirtmakers Follow this button Stance. Eton and Turnbull & Asser are the first two that come to mind. But it really boils down to personal preference.

 

 

post #2920 of 6199
Ledbury has spent a fortune paying for good reviews. All the reviewers rave about the buttoning position because Ledbury tells them to. This is all speculation of course. I just can't think of any other reason so many menswear writers recommend their over priced shirts. Now people ever where have read a low second button is best.

I like the higher second button.
post #2921 of 6199
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

 

The idea for raising the first button, was so you can wear the shirt with the collar button and first button open (so you don't look too buttoned up). The second button is now positioned high enough that it doesn't show too much chest. We've been getting great feedback on this change. But others can chime in here.

 

I think we'll do something along the lines of the white stitching for the purely casual ones, which we'll also do an unfused collar.

 

 

My votes:

 

1. Regarding pleats, why not try side pleats? Yes it's not traditional, but at least they're functional (increase range of motion of arms without pulling in the back). I'm okay with either, but box pleats are simply a design detail.

2. Keep the pocket.

3. Go with the lightly fused collar. Kamakura knows what they're doing.

4. Stick with tonal stitching.

5. Buttoning position of top button is fine. Examples below of S&M vs. Kamakura


 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

S&M:

Kamakura:

 

 

post #2922 of 6199
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldofdreams View Post

Ledbury has spent a fortune paying for good reviews. All the reviewers rave about the buttoning position because Ledbury tells them to. This is all speculation of course. I just can't think of any other reason so many menswear writers recommend their over priced shirts. Now people ever where have read a low second button is best.

I like the higher second button.

 

I did not have the best experience with Ledbury shirts. They recommended me the "tailored fit" because I told them I fit well in BB slim fit (albeit their shirts a bit boxy), and their tailored fit is like a tent. Also, their size 16 collar is easily .5" too small, so I have to wear the shirt unbuttoned with the tie cinching the collar closed. Not my most successful venture. The fabric is nice though.

 

 

Ledbury shirt (Click to show)
post #2923 of 6199

Any tips on how to keep shirts from wrinkling on the way to work (if they aren't of the 'non-iron' sort)?  I wear a shirt/tie, no jacket to work.  I've tried starch.  Thanks! Newish to work attire as I used to have a uniform.

post #2924 of 6199
Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelKnight View Post

Any tips on how to keep shirts from wrinkling on the way to work (if they aren't of the 'non-iron' sort)?  I wear a shirt/tie, no jacket to work.  I've tried starch.  Thanks! Newish to work attire as I used to have a uniform.
A professor of mine told me to put the shirt in the back of the car on the drive to work and then put it on when you get to the office. I still end up with wrinkles by the time I go home, but at least I don't show up with wrinkles in the morning. If you don't drive to work, I suppose you could alway take a suit bag with your shirt in it. Another option is nicely folding it and putting it in your bag until you get to work.
post #2925 of 6199
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

So we received the new samples in, looks like we're going to go with the light fusing. You can see it here matched up against the Kamakura.

 

The collar roll is even more insane now. And because of the interlining, it has a lot more support.

 

It may not have been your intention to copy the Kamakura collar exactly which is fine, but the Kamakura collar seems to be all around beefier than the SM one.  In particular, it seems to have a wider spread, longer collar points, and a taller collar band height.  One of the huge benefits of the extra spread in my opinion is that it helps the collar points sit closer to/under the lapels of a sport coat.  I personally prefer this on all my collars: BD or otherwise.  The SM collar looks very nice and I look forward to trying it out when they come in.  Do you mind sharing the measurements on the SM collar?  Thanks.  

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread