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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 194

post #2896 of 6986

I apologize for steering the thread off course. I should've PMed the gentleman.

 

However gents, I am in a conundrum. Need to build my suit wardrobe and pretty certain I'm going to go with Spier & Mackay (unbeatable prices), though with the lighting the pictures on the website I am rather unsure about how I would look in them. You see, I have an extremely large noggin (no joke) and dark charcoals and navys tend to contrast against my Asian skin tone and emphasize my large dome. So any suggestions for 5 suits for a conservative work environment for an Asian Mr. Potatohead? I mean as in actual pieces from S&M not general color suggestions.

post #2897 of 6986
Quote:
Originally Posted by DomoKun View Post
 

I apologize for steering the thread off course. I should've PMed the gentleman.

 

However gents, I am in a conundrum. Need to build my suit wardrobe and pretty certain I'm going to go with Spier & Mackay (unbeatable prices), though with the lighting the pictures on the website I am rather unsure about how I would look in them. You see, I have an extremely large noggin (no joke) and dark charcoals and navys tend to contrast against my Asian skin tone and emphasize my large dome. So any suggestions for 5 suits for a conservative work environment for an Asian Mr. Potatohead? I mean as in actual pieces from S&M not general color suggestions.

http://www.spierandmackay.com/product_information/3598_navy_solid___contemporary_fit

 

http://www.spierandmackay.com/product_information/3596_blue_pinhead_texture_contemporary_fit

 

http://www.spierandmackay.com/product_information/3594_dark_brown_birdseye___contemporary_fit

 

http://www.spierandmackay.com/product_information/3578_bluegrey_solid___contemporary_fit

 

http://www.spierandmackay.com/product_information/3574_charcoal_solid_contemporary_fit

 

http://www.spierandmackay.com/product_information/3592_grey_houndstooth_contemporary_fit

post #2898 of 6986
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post
 

Those of you who own both: How would you guys compare S&M quality with SuitSupply? Also, any photos? Definitely not enough photos in this thread.

 

 

On a sidenote:

 

This thread has been ttreated as a case-by-case customer service answering service as of late.

 

Rick is gracious enough to entertain these posts, but the personal questions you have about your orders can be resolved with a toll free phone call, an email, or at most a PM. Inquiring here about your order only clutters the thread and takes away from useful discussions, such as which collars we want on the next batch of OTR shirts. :bigstar: 

 

Personally, they're cornering different markets. Susu caters to individuals that want to experience true Italian fabrics first and foremost alongside tailoring at reasonable prices, while S&M makes up for the fabric by offering even better service and unbeatable value/construction.
post #2899 of 6986

 

 

Basically all the ones I was thinking about except the light brown sharkskin and the light gray...is houndstooth acceptable in a conservative office environment? I had read that it is more casual than formal. I was just worried about how dark the charcoal and gray/blue solid looks in real life. That picture makes it seem so dark. I know classic business suits color are the darker ones but just hate they contrast against my big head where as the lighter grays not so much.

post #2900 of 6986
Quote:
Originally Posted by DomoKun View Post
 

 

 

Basically all the ones I was thinking about except the light brown sharkskin and the light gray...is houndstooth acceptable in a conservative office environment? I had read that it is more casual than formal. I was just worried about how dark the charcoal and gray/blue solid looks in real life. That picture makes it seem so dark. I know classic business suits color are the darker ones but just hate they contrast against my big head where as the lighter grays not so much.

I'd wait for Rick to comment on how dark they are. 

post #2901 of 6986

Rick, any chance you have an estimate on how much work I'd need to have done if I remove some of the back lining on the tobacco wool/linen suit jacket? I know that it'll involve the taping of some seams and losing some lining can lead to more rumpling and shape oddities so it's a risk; some jackets seem to be more of a horror show inside than others so if you don't mind sharing some insider perspective that'd be awesome. I'm really tempted to do it to make this a true summer suit that can handle the Texas heat but I don't want to be walking into a money pit.

post #2902 of 6986
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post
 

Those of you who own both: How would you guys compare S&M quality with SuitSupply? Also, any photos? Definitely not enough photos in this thread.

 

 

On a sidenote:

 

This thread has been ttreated as a case-by-case customer service answering service as of late.

 

Rick is gracious enough to entertain these posts, but the personal questions you have about your orders can be resolved with a toll free phone call, an email, or at most a PM. Inquiring here about your order only clutters the thread and takes away from useful discussions, such as which collars we want on the next batch of OTR shirts. :bigstar: 

 

The way we see ourselves is a an alternative to SuitSupply and J.Crew.

 

Having seen many Npoli Blue-Line, we feel our fabrics and construction are superior. We've switched our Core fabric to mainline Filarte, which we feel is a better fabric than the VBC used by SS on the Blue-Line, which is very thin. Only when you get to the $529 CAD pricing do we feel SuitSupply suits are an at par comparison.  That said, SuitSupply makes a solid suit and I can't say anything negative. Fit wise, our Contemporary is close to their Havana and our Slim is slightly more fitted through the waist compared to the Copenhagen.

 

Where we see the big divide is that we offer all suits in both fits and offer trouser substitutions, almost like separates. You are not forced into trousers just because they come with the suit. Most men's bodies are not made this way. We cut all our jackets and trousers from the same fabric lot, so colours/patterns are an exact match.

 

Suitsupply has to be commended for offering a wide range of fabrics and styling. Also for educating and bringing a wide variety of men into the world of better suiting who wouldn't be served unless they shelled out a whole lot of extra money. They actually opened the door for us, but I think the world is a big enough place that we can exist along side them and be successful as well.

post #2903 of 6986
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DomoKun View Post
 

 

 

Basically all the ones I was thinking about except the light brown sharkskin and the light gray...is houndstooth acceptable in a conservative office environment? I had read that it is more casual than formal. I was just worried about how dark the charcoal and gray/blue solid looks in real life. That picture makes it seem so dark. I know classic business suits color are the darker ones but just hate they contrast against my big head where as the lighter grays not so much.

 

Houndstooth is fine. it's a micro houndstooth and actually registers as a lighter gray. It's heavier, larger houndstooth that would be too casual.  The charcoal is dark. Few shades off black. The Blue/Gray is fantastic. Brighter than traditional navy, but still has a matte/muted look. Works very well in place of both Navy's and Grays.

post #2904 of 6986
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by losrockets View Post
 

Rick, any chance you have an estimate on how much work I'd need to have done if I remove some of the back lining on the tobacco wool/linen suit jacket? I know that it'll involve the taping of some seams and losing some lining can lead to more rumpling and shape oddities so it's a risk; some jackets seem to be more of a horror show inside than others so if you don't mind sharing some insider perspective that'd be awesome. I'm really tempted to do it to make this a true summer suit that can handle the Texas heat but I don't want to be walking into a money pit.

 

That's a tough job. You need a really good tailor to make that happen. We charge $150 CAD for just a lining change. You would need the entire back lining panel removed and the seams taped. Probably in the same neighborhood of $150. But that's us, and we go crazy on our margin on alterations as most Alteration only tailors do.

post #2905 of 6986

@spiermackay have you ever considered doing seasonal ties like Suitsupply?  I really like the fabrics they use (i.e. wool/cashmere/silk blend or even 100%wool), but a more competitive price would be nice.

post #2906 of 6986
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldofdreams View Post
 

@spiermackay have you ever considered doing seasonal ties like Suitsupply?  I really like the fabrics they use (i.e. wool/cashmere/silk blend or even 100%wool), but a more competitive price would be nice.

 

We considered it. From our suppliers, it requires a much higher qty to produce. Our quantities have improved significantly, and I anticipate we'll be in a position to run something for next fall/winter.

post #2907 of 6986
Quote:

Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post

 

What we are thinking is now, to run a fused version as the "main" oxford. This works with/without a tie and good for suits/sportcoats, etc. Possibly, develop a slightly heavier fabric for a more casual version, which would be unfused.

 

I just bought the most recent OCBD release, and wanted to put in my .02. The fabric is nice and similar to my Lands' End and (discontinued) Jos A Bank OCBDs. The brushing is almost nonexistent, which is good since I think I'd prefer it almost raw and unprocessed. I have no experience with BB or Mercer, but I'm the type to think the heavier the cloth (thicker threads) the better, so I'd love to see it go in that direction. I really like how the Mercer cloth looks here. This sounds amazing, but would be too expensive.

 

I don't wear a tie, so I'm fine with the unfused collar. My other requests would be for white contrast stitching and a lower second button, which I think was raised for the latest version. Leaving just the top unbuttoned is a little tight, and unbuttoning the top 2 is a little too much chest for my liking. A wider placket would be nice too, but not a dealbreaker.

 

Overall, it's a nice shirt with a nice collar length that fits me well, and I got an awesome value with the Black Friday deal.

post #2908 of 6986
Also weighing in on the collar debate...

I actually like the casual tone the unfused collar provides, but like a lot of people on here, I don't wear a tie often. That said, I've buttoned the top button and I still get a bit of a roll. It's probably not as distinct as the Kamakura, but it's there.

That said, I already own several S&M button downs, it might be nice to work in a few that look (slightly) better with a tie. Looking forward to any changes, and the new batch!

Also... Don't remove the box pleat please! It's nice to actually be able to move around a bit in my shirt without feeling it pull from my waist. I'm not heavyset at all, but I like how fashion is currently moving away from the too tight silhouette to something that's a bit more relaxed/casual, but still slim.
post #2909 of 6986

I feel the OCBD's should be decided upon what S&M perceives best once the samples are received.  

 

I also think they should be based on wearing it unbuttoned without tie.  Sure there are some who wear ties, but I would guess the vast majority do not.  There are so many other great collars available that are better with ties.  Just my 0.02.

post #2910 of 6986
Thread Starter 

The way we're heavily leaning now is to have some sort of interlining on the current OCBD. We've already started development on a slightly heavier oxford specifically as a more Casual, which will have more heft to support an unlined collar.

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