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SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 188

post #2806 of 6175
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post

FWIW, I was in NYC yesterday and  stopped by Kamakura and had a close look at their OCBD shirts. The collars on them are fused. It's the fused structure that gives the rigid roll of the collar. Our OCBD's don't have fusing in them, which is more traditional and softer.

What is the preference?

I would say light fusing.
post #2807 of 6175
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

FWIW, I was in NYC yesterday and  stopped by Kamakura and had a close look at their OCBD shirts. The collars on them are fused. It's the fused structure that gives the rigid roll of the collar. Our OCBD's don't have fusing in them, which is more traditional and softer.

 

What is the preference?


Kamakura for sure. I liked yours a lot, and still do.  But when worn with a tie, they lack the "magic" of a Kamakura.  Kamakura is as good as it gets.  No offense to your company.  Your shirts appear to have a collar roll with no tie.  When I wear a tie they lay flat, which is no bueno.  I just  am not going to wear yours with a tie.  That is a bummer, but they are still a great value.  

post #2808 of 6175
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldofdreams View Post
 


Kamakura for sure. I liked yours a lot, and still do.  But when worn with a tie, they lack the "magic" of a Kamakura.  Kamakura is as good as it gets.  No offense to your company.  Your shirts appear to have a collar roll with no tie.  When I wear a tie they lay flat, which is no bueno.  I just  am not going to wear yours with a tie.  That is a bummer, but they are still a great value.  

 

The roll holds better when there is fusing to support it. Without the fusing, the collar is very soft and can't hold the roll when pulled tight with a tie.  I was wondering about that, and I was finally able to confirm it yesterday. I'm going to sample one with light fusing and see how that comes out.

post #2809 of 6175

I'm surprised to hear Kamakuras are fused, I always thought they were just lightly lined. I don't wear ties with BD collars myself, so I prefer really light collars/cuffs/plackets on casual shirts. I do like a little bit of structure in the collar band, though. I have a couple of light madras shirts (non-S&M) that don't have any, and I think they look like hell.

post #2810 of 6175
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

 

The roll holds better when there is fusing to support it. Without the fusing, the collar is very soft and can't hold the roll when pulled tight with a tie.  I was wondering about that, and I was finally able to confirm it yesterday. I'm going to sample one with light fusing and see how that comes out.


I thought they advertise unfused collars.  Either way, their spread and cutaway are both very light.  Their cutaway is great.  I like your semi-spread better than their spread though.  All this stuff really comes down to personal preference.  On this forum, I think you'll find most favor the Kamakura button down style.  I don't know how representative of your customers that sample is, though.

 

EDIT: Have you guys ever thought about adding an unfused cutaway that is a little wider than your full spread?  I bet it would sell very well.

 

Here is what the website says about their collars:

"The selection of interlining needs to be carefully considered to achieve the ideal structured yet organically flowing form. We only use non-fusible interlining, in order to achieve a natural-looking soft touch to the collars and cuffs."

 

Honestly, I don't really care how you get the collar roll, though.  If it requires fusing, fuse away.


Edited by fieldofdreams - 12/9/15 at 10:38am
post #2811 of 6175
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldofdreams View Post
 


I thought they advertise unfused collars.  Either way, their spread and cutaway are both very light.  Their cutaway is great.  I like your semi-spread better than their spread though.  All this stuff really comes down to personal preference.  On this forum, I think you'll find most favor the Kamakura button down style.  I don't know how representative of your customers that sample is, though.

 

EDIT: Have you guys ever thought about adding an unfused cutaway that is a little wider than your full spread?  I bet it would sell very well.

 

I was super surprised too. When we first made the C3-K, I bought a Royal Oxford BD from Kamakura. When we opened it in the factory, it had fusing. At first, I thought it was specific to that shirt as the fabric was a flimsy 2/100 yarn. Then yesterday, in the shop, I could definitely confirm the regular OCBD has fusing as well. I think the unfused collars are the regular spread and full spreads.  If you have a BD from them, I'm sure a quick feel test of the top part of the leaf would confirm the fusing.

 

Have you tried our Full spread?

post #2812 of 6175
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnsson View Post
 

I'm surprised to hear Kamakuras are fused, I always thought they were just lightly lined. I don't wear ties with BD collars myself, so I prefer really light collars/cuffs/plackets on casual shirts. I do like a little bit of structure in the collar band, though. I have a couple of light madras shirts (non-S&M) that don't have any, and I think they look like hell.

 

The madras is really loose and soft cloth, the is almost no structure in the cloth itself. For next season, we will add a very light fusable to the collar to give it a tiny bit more support for the BD's.

post #2813 of 6175
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

 

I was super surprised too. When we first made the C3-K, I bought a Royal Oxford BD from Kamakura. When we opened it in the factory, it had fusing. At first, I thought it was specific to that shirt as the fabric was a flimsy 2/100 yarn. Then yesterday, in the shop, I could definitely confirm the regular OCBD has fusing as well. I think the unfused collars are the regular spread and full spreads.  If you have a BD from them, I'm sure a quick feel test of the top part of the leaf would confirm the fusing.

 

Have you tried our Full spread?


I have a couple of your full spread, I like them.  The Kamakura is pretty similar in angle and collar points, but the collar is very soft and it kind of sits on the chest. Suitsupply shirts do the same thing.  I'm probably one of the few on SF that really like that style of cutaway.  I don't see them much on here.  

post #2814 of 6175
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieldofdreams View Post
 


I have a couple of your full spread, I like them.  The Kamakura is pretty similar in angle and collar points, but the collar is very soft and it kind of sits on the chest. Suitsupply shirts do the same thing.  I'm probably one of the few on SF that really like that style of cutaway.  I don't see them much on here.  

 

Oh, ok, I know exactly what you are talking about. It's a very Italian look, almost like the collar angles down to the chest then out along body instead of gradually arching down.

 

We can do that in custom. Possibly do something like that in the future. It's just using a light, unfused collar.

post #2815 of 6175

I recently received a size 36 model 2 slim suit from you guys and i love it. However, I noticed that there's a small shoulder dimple only on my right shoulder....is the shoulder on the contemporary fit cut the same as the slim fit, or is there more width on the shoulder cap front to back which might alleviate the dimple?

post #2816 of 6175
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey543 View Post
 

I recently received a size 36 model 2 slim suit from you guys and i love it. However, I noticed that there's a small shoulder dimple only on my right shoulder....is the shoulder on the contemporary fit cut the same as the slim fit, or is there more width on the shoulder cap front to back which might alleviate the dimple?

 

Which suit did you pick up?. There was a tiny change to the cap from the first group to to most recent which addressed this. There is a negligible difference between the slim and contemporary in the cap.

post #2817 of 6175

it was the grey herringbone suit

post #2818 of 6175
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiermackay View Post
 

 

Which suit did you pick up?. There was a tiny change to the cap from the first group to to most recent which addressed this. There is a negligible difference between the slim and contemporary in the cap.

 

it was the grey herringbone suit

post #2819 of 6175

Curious about the turnaround time on custom shirts?  I ordered in store about 9 weeks ago.  Thanks

post #2820 of 6175
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey543 View Post
 

 

it was the grey herringbone suit

 

That is the newer group. Can you pm me a pic.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coronaeus View Post
 

Curious about the turnaround time on custom shirts?  I ordered in store about 9 weeks ago.  Thanks

 

9 weeks? What's your order# We've been processing pretty much everything within 4 weeks for the past couple of months, with very few exceptions. 

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