The Look goes on...

Mr Knightley · May 11, 2016

Clouseau said:
Back to Fred Perry polos. I thought you might appreciate my collection, built up over many years. The older one (MIE from the 80s), a blue one with blue Laurel, is at the left of the middle row, the most recent one (a maroon FP/Nigel Cabourn) is at the right of the bottom row.

Very impressive! I was going to suggest 'Show us your Fred Perrys' for the next 'event' but you have just killed that - as the CM guys would say!

@Clouseau - do you think that the MiE are still superior today? I haven't worn my new FP x Nigel Cabourn yet but it feels the nicest to date.

Clouseau · May 11, 2016

Quote:I can say my favorite at the moment is my Black/Champagne MIE (bottom left of the picture). Both cut and material are lovely, it's very long, and i think it will last. It really reminds me of the quality of the firsts MIE i had late seventies/early eighties. So yes, i think the MIE are still superior today. The cloth is not as thick as the Portugese or Japanese ones, but more supple and elegant.

I would place the FP/Nigel Cabourn in second. Very good material (as with most MIPortugal FP, they last too), and the cut is different but interesting as is the bigger collar.

I would put the Japanese ones ex æquo at the second place, good material that last, but they are short and quite slim.

I never owned an Italian FP polo (quite rare i think, i saw some in Roma a few years ago but they were not plain and a bit flashy (very Italian) - so not my style, but i do regret i didn't buy one for trying), but i've got Italian FP knitwear of great quality.

You won't be surprised if at the very end i'll place the Chinese ones. They are baggy, they fade quickly, and they don't last. They are doing a slim fit version for a year or two, the cut is better but the quality stays the same: poor..

As a side note, i mentioned on a previous post the very first Fred Perry polo i had, a red 3b with a white 'retro' laurel. Well, i'm almost sure it was made in... Belgium !

Mr Knightley · May 12, 2016

Clouseau said:
Quote: Interesting stuff Clouseau.

I think the Made in Italy ones are quite rare. As I say, in Italy last year they were selling MiE versions in la Rinascente.

My Italian-made one is like a Smedley in fabric and cut (made to wear outside trousers) so cannot really be compared to other more conventional pique cotton jobs.

Clouseau · May 12, 2016

A close-up of my older FP

As you can see, it had some wear. But as it's around 35 years old, it's not that bad...
It's a Medium, but with today sizing it would be more like a L or an XL slim fit...
MIE of course.

cerneabbas · May 12, 2016

Interesting collection of FP Clouseau.
The Nigel Cabourn ones,I have seen them on offer online,the fit looks quite generous do you go down a size ?.
I have bought 5 FP polos in the last 2 years and the quality is variable even amongst the 4 made in China ones,I also got caught out with the slim fit last year (I didn't realise there were slim fit and regular) according to the assistant in the FP shop this year they have gone back to one fit.
Also on the slim fit that I bought the collar seems slightly smaller,colour fading is also a problem in the darker coloured ones.
My conclusion with FP is that you have to look at each item separately,some will be ok others not,same as so many other brands these days.
I have seen online an FP made in England Harrington that looked very nice in the pictures,would be interested to see one not that I need a Harrington at the moment.

The Wolsey knitted cotton polo arrived,not the colour that I ordered !,anyway it looks ok the collar is more like a Smedley than a FP and the sleeves are a more traditional length than a lot of polos now,I have decided to keep it although my GF has said that it will be interesting to see how it looks when its been washed a few times.
Again the polo is made in China although the advertising had stressed Wolseys British heritage..

So I am still looking for a plain blue ( not navy ) plain short sleeve polo shirt with 3 buttons,something that could be worn with jeans or trousers,and theres not a lot of choice at the moment.

The other item that I am looking about for is a Cable or Arran cardigan in blue or navy for the autumn/winter,I don't want a shawl neck or visible logo,again not a lot of choice,there is one in the Woolovers catalogue,their knitwear is variable in size and quality too...any ideas ?.

My quest for a plain short sleeve BD goes on as well,plenty of checks ( RL do some nice ones) or long sleeve ( Gant have nice pink and yellow shirts with a same coloured logo hardly visible ), I hark back to the early 70s short sleeve Ben Shermans in pastel colours but can find nothing about like that now.

Clouseau · May 13, 2016

cerneabbas said:
Interesting collection of FP Clouseau.

The Nigel Cabourn ones,I have seen them on offer online,the fit looks quite generous do you go down a size ?.

I have bought 5 FP polos in the last 2 years and the quality is variable even amongst the 4 made in China ones,I also got caught out with the slim fit last year (I didn't realise there were slim fit and regular) according to the assistant in the FP shop this year they have gone back to one fit.
Also on the slim fit that I bought the collar seems slightly smaller,colour fading is also a problem in the darker coloured ones.

My conclusion with FP is that you have to look at each item separately,some will be ok others not,same as so many other brands these days.

I have seen online an FP made in England Harrington that looked very nice in the pictures,would be interested to see one not that I need a Harrington at the moment.

Cerneabbas,

about the Nigel Cabourn/FP polo, yes i went one size down, and the fit is good, but still a little big. I think the cut of their polos changed each year. The first ones were really oversized. The second ones (the one i bought) were still oversized, but far less. And the actual ones (- the one MrK bought- seems to be generous but not that big.)

Your conclusion about FP is good, i agree with it, in the case of the MIChina ones some doesn't look that bad, but they won't last whatever the case, and they fade really quick. As i said before, very easy for me to compare with the other ones made in different countries and in different times (1980s, 1990s, 2000s, 2010s). The Chinese are fragile and they tear apart after a certain number of wash.

Now about the MIE FP Harringtons. They are quality indeed, a close friend only wears FP Harringtons. In my case, and with my classical taste (Personal preference) i don't like to have a logo on a Jacket.

Man-of-Mystery · May 13, 2016

Okay, forget the suits, I'll run up a photo of my FPs...

skinny legs · May 13, 2016

I narrowly missed out on an ultra rare FP.
My old school used to provide ball boys for the tennis at Wimbledon.
I was selected, did the first two sessions of training, then got slung out due to a behavioural misdemeanour.
The uniform was purple shorts, olive green FP polo with purple sleeves; olive and purple used to be the traditional championship colours but its changed now.
This was in 1980, so it fitted in well with revival wear. Each ball boy had two changes of kit, and a good few of my mates sold one the shirts on for a small fortune to mainly American spectators.
A couple of my friends still have their uniform; I will try to upload

cerneabbas · May 13, 2016

I just found the Gentlemans Gazette Polo shirt guide,quite interesting and I agreed with most of it and could see a lot of sense in it,however 'never wear a polo shirt with a blazer' ? I think that it can look ok.
Also didn't mention long sleeve polo type shirts which have become a favourite for me in about 7 or 8 months of the year.

I mentioned Woolovers in an earlier post today and strangely enough I got there latest spring / summer catalogue in the post today,it has a 'collared jumper' 30% silk 70% cotton for £35,basically a long sleeve polo with a ribbed waist,some pretty awful colours but at that price I might try the navy one.

Botolph · May 13, 2016

cerneabbas said:
Interesting collection of FP Clouseau.
The Nigel Cabourn ones,I have seen them on offer online,the fit looks quite generous do you go down a size ?.
I have bought 5 FP polos in the last 2 years and the quality is variable even amongst the 4 made in China ones,I also got caught out with the slim fit last year (I didn't realise there were slim fit and regular) according to the assistant in the FP shop this year they have gone back to one fit.
Also on the slim fit that I bought the collar seems slightly smaller,colour fading is also a problem in the darker coloured ones.
My conclusion with FP is that you have to look at each item separately,some will be ok others not,same as so many other brands these days.
I have seen online an FP made in England Harrington that looked very nice in the pictures,would be interested to see one not that I need a Harrington at the moment.

The Wolsey knitted cotton polo arrived,not the colour that I ordered !,anyway it looks ok the collar is more like a Smedley than a FP and the sleeves are a more traditional length than a lot of polos now,I have decided to keep it although my GF has said that it will be interesting to see how it looks when its been washed a few times.
Again the polo is made in China although the advertising had stressed Wolseys British heritage..

So I am still looking for a plain blue ( not navy ) plain short sleeve polo shirt with 3 buttons,something that could be worn with jeans or trousers,and theres not a lot of choice at the moment.

The other item that I am looking about for is a Cable or Arran cardigan in blue or navy for the autumn/winter,I don't want a shawl neck or visible logo,again not a lot of choice,there is one in the Woolovers catalogue,their knitwear is variable in size and quality too...any ideas ?.

My quest for a plain short sleeve BD goes on as well,plenty of checks ( RL do some nice ones) or long sleeve ( Gant have nice pink and yellow shirts with a same coloured logo hardly visible ), I hark back to the early 70s short sleeve Ben Shermans in pastel colours but can find nothing about like that now.

O'Connell's in Buffalo, New York, a trafitional men's clothing company, make an excellent product. Their polos:
http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/Pima-Cotton-Pique-Polos/

No cable knit long sleeve cardis but I can attest to their cardigans' quality:
http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/Scottish-Lambswool-Cardigan-Sweaters/

Anyway if the ol' American 3/2 sack style jacket is your speed, they are THE cream of the crops.

Botolph · May 13, 2016

cerneabbas said:
I just found the Gentlemans Gazette Polo shirt guide,quite interesting and I agreed with most of it and could see a lot of sense in it,however 'never wear a polo shirt with a blazer' ? I think that it can look ok.
Also didn't mention long sleeve polo type shirts which have become a favourite for me in about 7 or 8 months of the year.

I mentioned Woolovers in an earlier post today and strangely enough I got there latest spring / summer catalogue in the post today,it has a 'collared jumper' 30% silk 70% cotton for £35,basically a long sleeve polo with a ribbed waist,some pretty awful colours but at that price I might try the navy one.

In many situations a polo might look daft with a blazer, but for instance a white long sleeve Smedley and a blue blazer looks good with khaki chinos and burgundy loafers.

I might wear a long sleeve navy Smedley with this, faded jeans, and some snuff colored suede playboys in a very casual "down the bar" situation:

Kingstonian · May 14, 2016

cerneabbas said:
The other item that I am looking about for is a Cable or Arran cardigan in blue or navy for the autumn/winter,I don't want a shawl neck or visible logo,again not a lot of choice,there is one in the Woolovers catalogue,their knitwear is variable in size and quality too...any ideas ?.

Woolovers Aran sizing is on the generous side. Same as on their countryman sweaters. There is a small label tab down the side. Quality is good though.

Mr Knightley · May 14, 2016

Thanks for the info on O'Connell's @Botolph - I see they ship internationally but at $45. They do look very nice polos...

My own Fred Perry collection is very small, mainly because I am not a big polo wearer today.

Clockwise from top left:
Black FP x Comme des Garcons SHIRT ss 2004 from Choice Design Wear at Lakeside. Little-worn as I feel the zip and the slim cut make it less than wearable today but superb finish and fabric; Made in Portugal.

Navy FP in a Smedley style from 2008 ish and Made in Italy also from Choice. Very wearable with cotton trousers, jeans and even dogtooth trou. Starting to show its teeth a bit with some colour loss on the collar. It's the largest one at 42" but not too large.

Newest addition and unworn the blue FP x Nigel Cabourn from End. Clothing has a lovely feel and is cut more like a golf polo. It should have a long life; Made in Portugal.

Black MiE via la Rinascente, Palermo in 2015. Does not have the great feel of the new one or the Comme IMO. Been worn once, I think. This is cut 'just right' I would say.

Clouseau · May 14, 2016

Mr Knightley said:
Thanks for the info on O'Connell's @Botolph - I see they ship internationally but at $45. They do look very nice polos...

My own Fred Perry collection is very small, mainly because I am not a big polo wearer today.

On the contrary, i have much more polos than shirt. Old habit...

I wonder, maybe it's one of the bigger difference between 'originals', and 80s adopters of 'The look'. I remember (at least here) that BD shirts where not very common, but everyone was wearing FP. Maybe an uniformization of 'the look' at the time. I'm sure it was different in other places, but still, even in England in the 80s i think you saw more Fred Perrys (and T-shirts) than BD on the majority of skinheads. (I'm not speaking of the 90s scene and what follows.)

cerneabbas · May 14, 2016

Botolph said:
O'Connell's in Buffalo, New York, a trafitional men's clothing company, make an excellent product. Their polos:
http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/Pima-Cotton-Pique-Polos/

No cable knit long sleeve cardis but I can attest to their cardigans' quality:
http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/Scottish-Lambswool-Cardigan-Sweaters/

Anyway if the ol' American 3/2 sack style jacket is your speed, they are THE cream of the crops.

Some very nice clothes ( and the AE Macneil in brown ) on that site,the New Old Stock section was interesting,and the choice of colours in the knitwear was good.

The Look goes on...

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