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The Look goes on... - Page 20

post #286 of 637
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post



Yep, Jump the Gun.



Heres the only other photo that didnt make the out of focus cull (Click to show)
AppleMark


These ties were super skinny Mr K!



I like a good knit tie and a grenadine for the texture. Drakes are going 8cm now on all their ties, very tough to find 9cm. I have done the bespoke route with Passagio and have more coming from him and some coming from E G Cappelli too. That way you can order width preference and length which is often overlooked.



I agree with Cov too in that it is a moving target so its whatever floats your boat.



https://www.jumpthegun.co.uk/cms/Home Good stuff online too, the ties are a bit wider here 4- 4.5 cm and bigger on the Peckham Rye. I couldn't remember looking at the Harrington prices, website say £45-50.

 



Yes, I have often bought online from them but not yet visited. I have never done the bespoke tie either but have a project in mind....

In the meantime, I have taken a fancy to Hermes ties and it has become a tradition in the Knightley home for Mrs K to buy me one at Christmas. I have noted a slimming down in that highly traditional company too - also down to 8cm now. I can live with that and now find it very hard to like a tie that is any more than 9cm, so many of mine are currently being rested. Once again the Look does go on but in a modified form.
post #287 of 637
I think there is a younger/older dimension as well as a high street/subcultural dimension. The more striking elements definitely need to recede as you get older. I think the skinhead look, being somewhat reduced anyway, handles that better than mod but then again I would say that. I have had a look towards the more mod end of things but it is only in suede footwear that it seems to have inspired. For me, some imagined development of the suedehead look is where I would like to be. More English, less ivy, less continental.

To get back to Mr. Knightley's point about collar, lapel and tie - cutaways suit my face and neck better than buttondowns and that is probably 90% of all that matters.
Edited by covskin - 4/29/14 at 7:08am
post #288 of 637
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post




A project? care to share? .

Quote:
Originally Posted by covskin View Post


More English, less ivy, less continental.

Wonder what we mean by more English? Those overseas think it's dark suits jazzy stripy shirts and regimental ties!
post #289 of 637
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post

Wonder what we mean by more English? Those overseas think it's dark suits jazzy stripy shirts and regimental ties!

Haha...as a bit of an outsider myself that is pretty much my view too!
post #290 of 637
Thread Starter 
The project I have in mind is to find some classic Paisley material and get my friend on Facebook Gill Evans (of Mod Togs) to make me a tie. My problem is I don't know where to look for said material so the project is at this stage in limbo. I wonder if we could between a few of us here get some material (anyone know where?) and have a few made up....
post #291 of 637
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post

The project I have in mind is to find some classic Paisley material and get my friend on Facebook Gill Evans (of Mod Togs) to make me a tie. My problem is I don't know where to look for said material so the project is at this stage in limbo. I wonder if we could between a few of us here get some material (anyone know where?) and have a few made up....

Cracking idea. Here's one way of doing it

http://www.styleforum.net/t/387153/vintage-like-special-run-garza-to-be-made-by-patrizio-cappelli-3-colourways-already-good-to-go

Though it's about finding the product to give to your friend to make.

Another way is the Passagio route. He sends you an e-copy of all his vintage swatches and you choose the make-up of the tie. 3, 5 or 7 fold tie etc etc He has some lovely vintage paisleys, I may still have some swatches.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/364005/passaggio-cravatte-official-affiliate-thread

So, where to find the source material here in the UK? Let's think on...
post #292 of 637
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post


Cracking idea. Here's one way of doing it

http://www.styleforum.net/t/387153/vintage-like-special-run-garza-to-be-made-by-patrizio-cappelli-3-colourways-already-good-to-go

Though it's about finding the product to give to your friend to make.

Another way is the Passagio route. He sends you an e-copy of all his vintage swatches and you choose the make-up of the tie. 3, 5 or 7 fold tie etc etc He has some lovely vintage paisleys, I may still have some swatches.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/364005/passaggio-cravatte-official-affiliate-thread

So, where to find the source material here in the UK? Let's think on...

Good stuff Cleav.  How did the ties from Patrizio compare with your expectations?

 

Did the poster C&A make all the arrangements with him?

 

I'll have another look for materials in the UK but not too confident there will be anything of the required standard....

post #293 of 637
Thread Starter 

 

From J Simons FB page.  The Look goes on....

post #294 of 637
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by covskin View Post

For me, some imagined development of the suedehead look is where I would like to be. More English, less ivy, less continental.

To get back to Mr. Knightley's point about collar, lapel and tie - cutaways suit my face and neck better than buttondowns and that is probably 90% of all that matters.

 

I guess Suedehead was a mix of all those influences and the balance between them changed over time - always a moving target, I agree.

 

Very good point about making sure you wear things that suit you.  It takes quite a discipline to spurn things you love but which you know deep-down won't really work for you.  In my case it is large, bold suitings, which I crave but which would make me look like a short arse!

post #295 of 637
Well I held off my threat of getting some white jeans (just thinking out loud! - too much of a 'whiteout' effect anyway) and got some stone-coloured chinos from Lands End instead

http://www.landsend.co.uk/mProduct?pid=P_21985

I threw my chinos out a few years back in disgust but am pleased with these. The twill is not too coarse and the crease gives the straight tapering line at the back required for wearing with a jacket. The only thing missing is that polyester sharpness of an old pair of stapress. Look good with a half break but really tempted to take them a bit higher!

FYI 32 waist is 33", rise 11" to top, hem 8", knee 9", thigh 12".
Edited by covskin - 5/2/14 at 7:41am
post #296 of 637
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by covskin View Post

Well I held off my threat of getting some white jeans (just thinking out loud! - too much of a 'whiteout' effect anyway) and got some stone-coloured chinos from Lands End instead

http://www.landsend.co.uk/mProduct?pid=P_21985

I threw my chinos out a few years back in disgust but am pleased with these. The twill is not too coarse and the crease gives the straight tapering line at the back required for wearing with a jacket. The only thing missing is that polyester sharpness of an old pair of stapress. Look good with a half break but really tempted to take them a bit higher!

FYI 32 waist is 33", rise 11" to top, hem 8", knee 9", thigh 12".

I couldn't get that link to work but had a look at the site - there seem to be two or three different models.  Which one did you get?

 

I must say I have a similar gap in  my own wardrobe since throwing out some Polo RL chinos last summer which always seemed too baggy to me, and which I should like to fill this season.

 

Just back from London where I had a couple of meetings in the Strand area and must say there were some green shoots in evidence of an increasing sense of style (of course the men in question may have been foreign visitors but not all, I thought).

post #297 of 637
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by covskin View Post

Well I held off my threat of getting some white jeans (just thinking out loud! - too much of a 'whiteout' effect anyway) and got some stone-coloured chinos from Lands End instead

http://www.landsend.co.uk/mProduct?pid=P_21985

I threw my chinos out a few years back in disgust but am pleased with these. The twill is not too coarse and the crease gives the straight tapering line at the back required for wearing with a jacket. The only thing missing is that polyester sharpness of an old pair of stapress. Look good with a half break but really tempted to take them a bit higher!

FYI 32 waist is 33", rise 11" to top, hem 8", knee 9", thigh 12".

Come to think of it, i do have some very light stone Boss cotton jeans - paper thin too. Because of the colour and light weight they really only work in warmer climes as here last year at my sister's house in Spain.

post #298 of 637
^ Try this

http://www.landsend.co.uk/Search?q=390038

Men's Regular Plain Tailored Fit No Iron Chinos
Style # 390038

80s style chinos with pleats, cuffs and a big baggy arse have left a massive scar on me. These are nothing like that.

I am increasingly noticing green shoots myself. Some very smart young lads about.
post #299 of 637
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post

Come to think of it, i do have some very light stone Boss cotton jeans - paper thin too. Because of the colour and light weight they really only work in warmer climes as here last year at my sister's house in Spain.


Yep, it is a summer item (colour not weight) but works well with a high contrast top I feel, something navy rather than grey.

Come to think of it, one of my favourite photos on the other thread is of a group of lads stood outside a front door with one on the right in grey vneck, stone-coloured stapress, red socks and black shoes. It is the contrasting socks that make it so I will be trying that look myself, trousers nicely draped off my hand in my pocket!
Edited by covskin - 5/3/14 at 9:06am
post #300 of 637
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post

Jump the Gun and Waterstones launch Mods: The New Religion in Brighton:


I received my copy from amazon and have been perusing it off and on.

Nothing really new of course, but very comprehensive. One thing that has interested me so far is the introduction that attempts to trace the history of modern British style. It does not start, as those on the other thread do with the gangs of Victorian London or Manchester, but rather in Restoration London of the 1660s. Quite right too, as it was of course Charles II who gave us the three piece suit.

And in doing so it does not confine the Look to a working class phenomenon .
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