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The Look goes on... - Page 15

post #211 of 672
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerneabbas View Post

I still wear Button down collars,but with a smaller collar than I would have worn in the early 70s,I also wear non BD collars although not cutaways.
I also look at non BD shirts a lot more now when shopping,maybe I have become a little jaded with them over the years.

Button down collars didn't figure that strongly during my time as a skinhead, guess that is why I am a bit ambivalent towards them. The Ben Sherman red gingham short sleeve button down was ubiquitous in 1980/81 then Ben Sherman seemed to disappear from the shops to re-emerge a few years later with narrow collars and no buttons. Around the same time the Fred Perry lost its piping too. Trying to get rid of us!

Come to think of it, maybe that contributed to the stripping down of the skinhead look in the 80s. Became difficult to find stapress too as I recall but no problem finding airwair boots, brogues, ma1s, jean jackets. Jeans followed the mainstream (think I wore Lois and Lee, the 501 had not yet made its comeback) so no problem there either. 80s skinheads - more sinned against than sinning I think.
Edited by covskin - 4/6/14 at 12:26pm
post #212 of 672
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post

Linen - the Look goes on?



Mr Knightley.I do like the colour and material of that suit......but why those lapels on a single breasted suit ? just ruins the jacket IMO.

Not keen on the shirt collar,shoes look nice with the suit,but who would go out in public in a suit and tie with no socks on ?.

By the way, my long suffering GF gritted her teeth when I got the linen shirt out today to plan its alterations,I think that she was hoping that I had forgotten about it (or thrown it out).

post #213 of 672
Quote:
Originally Posted by covskin View Post

^^ On linen, I would wonder about the crumpledness. Then again, the furry country textures seem to work to an extent so who knows...

Yes,the crumpled look takes a bit of getting used to,my GF got fed up with me repeatedly ironing my shirt at first until I got used to it.

post #214 of 672
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post

Linen - the Look goes on?



That jacket is identical in style to my first ever MTM suit jacket,apart from mine had 3 buttons , narrower peak lapels and double vents.Over 40 years ago !

post #215 of 672
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerneabbas View Post

Mr Knightley.I do like the colour and material of that suit......but why those lapels on a single breasted suit ? just ruins the jacket IMO.

Not keen on the shirt collar,shoes look nice with the suit,but who would go out in public in a suit and tie with no socks on ?.

By the way, my long suffering GF gritted her teeth when I got the linen shirt out today to plan its alterations,I think that she was hoping that I had forgotten about it (or thrown it out).

 



As this is a modernist thread it would probably not be the place to debate the peaked or DB lapel on an SB suit. A lot has been written on the subject, of course, and this is a well-reasoned piece:

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2012/07/peak-lapel-single-breasted-suits.html#.U0K8rVZwbIU

The Italians in particular seem to have embraced the peaked lapel. Also the no-sock look, even in winter. I recall first seeing it in the late 70s when I used to buy L'uomo Vogue. Armani and others at the time were proposing the idea of a formal-ish look (suit or jacket and trousers, often in linen) with heavy shoes and no socks. To the Englishman's eye the look is deeply suspicious, but it is one I pursued myself at times during 'the Designer Decade'. It is definitely making a big come back in Europe, where it has never really gone away.
post #216 of 672
Thread Starter 
post #217 of 672
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post

Daniele - sockless but very cool. The Look Goes On.....

https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/1185632_10151988512623296_632108140_n.jpg

Is that you Mr. Knightly? If so I can see that no one would pay any attention to the lack of hosiery, the jacket takes the eye icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #218 of 672
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerneabbas View Post
 

Mr Knightley.I do like the colour and material of that suit......but why those lapels on a single breasted suit ? just ruins the jacket IMO.

Not keen on the shirt collar,shoes look nice with the suit,but who would go out in public in a suit and tie with no socks on ?.

By the way, my long suffering GF gritted her teeth when I got the linen shirt out today to plan its alterations,I think that she was hoping that I had forgotten about it (or thrown it out).

 



As this is a modernist thread it would probably not be the place to debate the peaked or DB lapel on an SB suit. A lot has been written on the subject, of course, and this is a well-reasoned piece:

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2012/07/peak-lapel-single-breasted-suits.html#.U0K8rVZwbIU

The Italians in particular seem to have embraced the peaked lapel. Also the no-sock look, even in winter. I recall first seeing it in the late 70s when I used to buy L'uomo Vogue. Armani and others at the time were proposing the idea of a formal-ish look (suit or jacket and trousers, often in linen) with heavy shoes and no socks. To the Englishman's eye the look is deeply suspicious, but it is one I pursued myself at times during 'the Designer Decade'. It is definitely making a big come back in Europe, where it has never really gone away.

Thanks for that link Mr Knightley,I am glad to see that I am not the only one who doesn't like those lapels on a single breasted jacket,and although I would rate myself reasonably open minded style wise ( I would wear a Loden coat for instance ) I will admit to being your suspicious Englishman when it comes to the sockless look.

post #219 of 672
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post

Is that you Mr. Knightly? If so I can see that no one would pay any attention to the lack of hosiery, the jacket takes the eye icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

I wish - no that is our 'Milanese correspondent' Daniele. He's a friend on FB and has contributed to a number of style articles on Film Noir Buff. He has just launched a knitwear line.
post #220 of 672
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post

I wish - no that is our 'Milanese correspondent' Daniele. He's a friend on FB and has contributed to a number of style articles on Film Noir Buff. He has just launched a knitwear line.

Oh okay, in that case my eye may be taken elsewhere and sans hosiery relegated still further!

Still, I do imagine you along these elegant lines...
post #221 of 672
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post


I wish - no that is our 'Milanese correspondent' Daniele. He's a friend on FB and has contributed to a number of style articles on Film Noir Buff. He has just launched a knitwear line.

Although I don't like his sockless stance and his shoes are not my choice,I am quite taken with that jacket,which surprises me a bit as I tend to be a bit sober colour wise,I also like his trousers ( sta prest ?) I would prefer a darker shade or colour,but that look is very cool IMO.

post #222 of 672
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post

Oh okay, in that case my eye may be taken elsewhere and sans hosiery relegated still further!

Still, I do imagine you along these elegant lines...

Elegant? I'm not sure. There is a bit of a debate at present on mod to Suedehead about having an image of yourself in mind but others may see you as a sack of shit!

Anyway here is a pic with Mrs K at a wedding a year or two ago

post #223 of 672
Quote:
Originally Posted by covskin View Post

Dressy casual, the sort of thing you see in the UK at airport departure lounges. The trouser crease makes it. Agree on the scarf, beard and soles.
Which uk airport?!!!! 95% I see are scrubbers in trackies and 3/4 trousers with trainers. On our trip last year to the states, the stewardess actually stopped me and the Mrs and thanked us for taking the time to dress appropriate!
post #224 of 672
^ haha...I knew I should have clarified that. Departure gates for places like Zurich or Milan, not Alicante!
post #225 of 672
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by covskin View Post

^ haha...I knew I should have clarified that. Departure gates for places like Zurich or Milan, not Alicante!

 



Flying to Naples last May I was witness to the massive gap between your average John Bull type and what I assume was a local Neapolitan gentleman.

They were standing side-by-side waiting for their cases - the Englishman from top to bottom: sports sunglasses on top of shaved head, grey patterned cap-sleeve T shirt that was not kind to his gut, slightly non matching 3/4 length grey shorts with those dangly bits at the bottoms, clumpy trainers and little dark-coloured sox!

The Italian sported a lightweight navy topcoat in Crombie style (it was about 21C), navy v neck over a white shirt, grey flannel trousers and beautiful loafers. His look was finished off with a well-worn but well-loved LV cabin bag.
Edited by Mr Knightley - 4/8/14 at 6:41am
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