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The Look goes on... - Page 124

post #1846 of 3280
Originally Posted by Man-of-Mystery View Post

I have reappraised the Charles Trywhitt Oxfords. I could just about live with the small collar, but not the collar insert in a contrasting colour. Scratch the above.

Agree on the contrast lining of collars, a detail not for me.
post #1847 of 3280
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post

The problem with BD shirts from 'English' makers I find is they usually have one or two details that are incorrect.  I have a really nice checked BD from Hawes and Curtis but perversely they have not included a back pleat - why not?!

I have a couple of nice Tyrwhitt b/d shirts, with no back pleat and no back collar button. My opinion is that doesn't make them bad shirts, nor does it necessarily destroy 'the look'. Button-downs were around for a lot of the sixties, and we never got to see the back (how many pics of Steve Marriott showed him from the rear?). My old Madras shirt (see the two pics below - me in 1966 and me in 1969 - same shirt) had no back button or pleat, as far as I remember.

Although I much prefer the 'correct' design, I just don't rule out variations or simplifications. I remember seeing Northern mods in 1967 wearing what appeared to be buttoned-down spearpoint shirts in Tattersall check.
post #1848 of 3280
Thread Starter 

I agree, MoM.  My Hawes and Curtis BD is perhaps the nicest that I currently have - great fit and comfortable to wear.  I suppose a bit of variation is a good thing.

post #1849 of 3280
I'm a bit late to this thread but a couple of points -

I've long been critical of the CM elite when they try to dress down. Some of the most admired and revered posters in suit and tie look laughably bad when they try to go casual.

They also don't generally 'get' the Mod look. I'm amazed if I ever get more than one or two sympathy votes in the challenges (despite often getting plenty of thumbs) which is fine it's all just for fun, but some of those that get high praise often leave me baffled as to why.

I have loads of Tyrwhitt shirts which I wear for work. No button downs but their spread collars hit the sweet spot for me when it comes to price vs quality. I have a couple of Lewins and they have a similar business plan but their shirts just didn't quite seem up to the quality of CT.
post #1850 of 3280
Thread Starter 

Hello @Thin White Duke !


When I was growing up it was important to look just as good when popping down the pub as it was posing under the plastic palm trees at Ilford Palais on a Saturday night.  So you learned by trial and error how to dress well in casual stuff as well as in what we now call CM.  I believe at least some of the CM posters on SF would not have had any such discipline in their yoof...


Thinking of last week's Challenge, @Man-of-Mystery got more thumbs than I have ever seen but they were not necessarily converted into votes.  I agree that on the FCs (and on WAYWRN) some highly regarded posters are not at all what I would consider well-dressed and many don't worry too much about how they present themselves in their pics either. Like you, I am often left baffled.


On Tyrwhitt shirts, I reckon £ for £ they are very good.  Better than TM Lewin, as you say and Hawes and Curtis and almost as good as Harvie and Hudson.  I have still to try other Jermyn St shirtmakers.

post #1851 of 3280
I think the FC are a good demonstration of realpolitik... It is not the reputation that counts but the votes. Anyway it was cool to rock a little the CM lot. Even if they won in the end, realpolitik once again!
post #1852 of 3280
Would someone be kind enough to unzip the terms FC, CM, and WAYWRN for me?

By the way, I put my plethora of thumbs-up down to appreciation of my hutzpah in posing on the same spot nearly fifty years later. My G9 doesn't look special (in that photo or at all) unless you know what you're looking at. Generally it looks like a grey-ish beige-ish zipper jacket, so it's not going to win any sartorial challenge. Plus if I had been serious about an entry I would have dressed up and had a series of photos taken. So no worries about lack of votes, it wasn't a winning photo.
post #1853 of 3280
MoM, we know your pics were the most interesting of the lot, and it was much appreciated. It was most the pursuit of a look than a recreation. In the terms of the challenge, EFV 20s look was by far the best IMO. FC Friday Challenge. CM Classical Menswear. WAYWRN What are you wearing right now. WTF What The Fuck...
post #1854 of 3280
Thread Starter 

M-o-M the terms you mention have the following meanings as I understand them:


FC = Friday Challenge


CM = Classic Menswear (the forum that hosts the Friday Challenges)


and WAYWRN = what are you wearing right now, which is the daily parade of smooth-looking i-gents on the CM Forum.  There is an equivalent on Streetwear & Denim (SW&D), which is normally populated by people wearing extremely expensive, often Japanese streetwear.


Actually, I think the SW&D Challenges are normally more fun (but I'm not equipped to enter) - see the SW&D End-of-the-World Challenge, which is just concluding.


Edit - Monsieur beat me to it as usual:D

post #1855 of 3280
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by Clouseau View Post

MoM, we know your pics were the most interesting of the lot, and it was much appreciated. It was most the pursuit of a look than a recreation. In the terms of the challenge, EFV 20s look was by far the best IMO. FC Friday Challenge. CM Classical Menswear. WAYWRN What are you wearing right now. WTF What The Fuck...

I voted for loads in the challenge as I found it hard to separate so many good entries.  I wasn't unhappy with the result - someone fresh is good.

post #1856 of 3280
Guys, being deep down in french countryside, i discover the pleasure to use my phone for Internet (a new thing for a 20th century boy like me) both threads are interesting at the moment and i noticed that we have some fresh originals on the M to S'thread. I do miss the input of Brownie and Cerneabbas to mention a few. The End of the world challenge is great but i miss the appropriate clobber. Now, about clothes, i was looking for a decent sta prest for a long time (the ones i've got are cheap Uniqlo staprest style trou, see my pics on the FC). Brutus re makes the Nevapress and i know it's'a good option but i didn't want to spend much. So i bought on the Net a half priced Winston sta prest by the infamous Merc brand, and i must say it's'a very good surprise. Good fit, cut, and material, and the logo is under the belt loop, so you can't see it with a belt... I went for the so called cream color, who is more of a beige-sand.
post #1857 of 3280
To stay on the sta-prest subject, i found difficult to find a decent repro since Levi's'stopped doin them (and i didn't like much the cut of their last attempts, but maybe you can still find some in the US?). The options i know so far are : Brooks Brothers ( i know lots like em, i find the rise a bit low), Mikkel Rude (expensive for what they are, i find Uniqlos as good for a fraction of the price), Relco (never tried them), Merc (not that bad really, and not too slim, you can wear them if you're over 18), Brutus Nevapress, well a poster of the other thread have only good things to say about them. Do you know other options ? The best thing would be a LVC remake, but none that i know at the moment except a corduroy version A few years ago.
post #1858 of 3280
I have several pairs of sta press. The quality and style are so varied it makes the term almost meaningless. Here is a rundown of what I have:

Merc 'Lord John' in light blue and dark blue from many years ago. Lightweight and smooth poly cotton which can hold a crease.

Relco POW and houndstooth from Atom Retro- all polyester no cotton. Lightweight and never wrinkle so good for travel. Cheap feeling cloth being poly but the fit of these is so good I use them as a model for my seamstress when I want other strides made slimmer!

Levis 511 reissue from a couple of years ago in creative colour names like platinum and timberwolf (beige and very light gray). Heavy twill poly cotton in a denim-like texture. Hard wearing. A bit like a slightly smoother version of Dickies American work strides.

Relco in light gray poly cotton - nice summer weight which go with a cotton blazer.

All of the above are machine washable and I have no complaints. After Merc stopped doing the Lord John model I got a pair of theirs in black that were rubbish. Looked like they would fade in a cold wash. Never wear them. I think Merc has since improved their line back to the quality of the Lord John ones I have.

In every case I've bought them in a waist size two inches larger than my normal trouser size. Also I noticed some don't have rear darts the way most rousers do which will be a problem if you're slim like me as you'll need to get the waist reduced at the back seam.

I heard good things about Jump the Gun but I don't like frogmouth pockets (none of mine have these). I also heard Warrior claim to replicate the original style and cloth but not sure how true this is. Never knew Brutus were in the game.

There's also a Mod clothing web shop based in the Far East which I've stumbled across a few times and they do sta pressts but I can't remember the name of it!

Hope this was helpful!
post #1859 of 3280
I confirm Brutus re makes the Nevapress, have a look at their website. They are quality stuff but very slim. I can confirm too that Merc improved the quality of their sta prest, now called “Winston“. They are 60% cotton, 40% poly.
post #1860 of 3280
Originally Posted by Clouseau View Post

It was most the pursuit of a look than a recreation. In the terms of the challenge, EFV 20s look was by far the best IMO.

I'm not disputing that, I'm not saying I should have won, quite the reverse. I only entered for fun, and the image quality of both and the sartorial effect of the 2015 picture were not winning standard.
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