The Look goes on...

Mr Knightley · Aug 15, 2014

Kingstonian said:
I am sure you are well able to cope and this is a rhetorical question - the sort of thing you see on William Wardrobe's blog.

It can blow hot and cold in the course of many days and you either have extra layers or tough it out. The danger is buying more gear for so-called transitional days. Not something a minimalist would do.

The other question is the whole notion of a Look. I know you are not suggesting some sort of tribal uniform but it may come across like that. I think you mean decent looking clothes with a bit of individuality and a long shelf life - not tat, or fashion dross.

Probably, but it often feels wrong during the transitional periods of spring and autumn with cool mornings and quite warm afternoons. When it all happens very early as now it is especially unsettling, don't you think?

I agree about the dangers of buying more stuff in order to try to cope though.

No, not a uniform and that is what is basically wrong with this whole thread. What is the Look?

Mr Knightley · Aug 15, 2014

http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/garance-i/

Sad. Will it affect our daily diet of the Look from Italy - hopefully not?

covskin · Aug 15, 2014

Kingstonian said:
It can blow hot and cold in the course of many days and you either have extra layers or tough it out. The danger is buying more gear for so-called transitional days. Not something a minimalist would do.

The other question is the whole notion of a Look. I know you are not suggesting some sort of tribal uniform but it may come across like that. I think you mean decent looking clothes with a bit of individuality and a long shelf life - not tat, or fashion dross.

Agree that there is no need for any extra transitional stuff in the UK climate. On the question of a 'Look' I hope what we are seeing is a winnowing of 60s to 80s youth styles for items/modes that can now, with a bit of distance, be seen as classic/timeless/whatever you want to call it and that can be incorporated fairly silently into a wider functioning wardrobe. By modes I mean the manner of wearing and acting - attitude in a bodily sense. For instance, lots of the looks on the what you are wearing threads have no noticeable attitude.

covskin · Aug 15, 2014

^ Attitude, an interesting etymology given here

http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/attitude

Origin

late 17th century (denoting the placing or posture of a figure in art): from French, from Italian attitudine 'fitness, posture', from late Latin aptitudo, from aptus 'fit'.

Attitude=fit. So attitude is all about how you fill your clothes.

Mr Knightley · Aug 18, 2014

Quote:
Interesting indeed. The thread is approaching six months old and still throwing up some good stuff.

covskin · Aug 18, 2014

Mr Knightley said:
So, what about adapting the Look for sudden changes in the weather? A week or so ago it was 27c or more in the SE of England and now it is quite autumnal - about 17c at the mo and a cool wind blowing. Later it might get up to about 21.

When I am in business mode there is little or no need to change but off-duty the challenge arises. A week ago I was typically wearing a short sleeve OCBD or long sleeve with sleeves turned back two or three times, jeans or cotton trousers and loafers sans socks. Today I am working at home in a long sleeve BD, jeans and loafers with Argyle sox and still feel cold. When I go out later I shall add blazer or Harrington. Even so I may feel incorrectly dressed as the light also starts to change at this time of year and autumn clothes beckon. It is getting to that cross-over time when nothing feels quite right.

Any thoughts / suggestions?

Had a thought on this after heading out casually dressed in wind and rain but knowing it was going to brighten up later. On top I wore T shirt under ma1 which, when generalised to a principle, would seem to be along the lines of something too thin under something too thick.

Mr Knightley · Aug 18, 2014

Quote:
Yes, that's the kind of thing I was getting at. I also had a challenge yesterday when going to visit my old mum on the occasion of her birthday. She is in a home and it is always hot and sweaty (and smelly I'm afraid!) but it was cool and windy outside. In the end it did brighten up a bit and I wore Made in Italy navy FP (collar done up!), bespoke POW trousers and burgundy Weejuns. Would have liked to have worn a blazer and BD instead of the FP but just too hot in the home...

covskin · Aug 23, 2014

Browsing the iconic 'Skinhead' by Nick Knight once again and wondered what he might be wearing these days

http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/biographies/nick-knight-biography

Not bad at all.

covskin · Aug 23, 2014

Also been looking at this, the Beyonce Flawless video. A sprinkling of skinheads, not particularly stylish maybe but generally more authentic than the total designer nightmare presented in the Rihanna We Found Love video a couple of years back.

[VIDEO] [/VIDEO]

Mr Knightley · Aug 24, 2014

covskin said:
Browsing the iconic 'Skinhead' by Nick Knight once again and wondered what he might be wearing these days

http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/biographies/nick-knight-biography

Not bad at all.

I had no idea he was so gifted. Very interesting stuff.

Botolph · Aug 24, 2014

covskin said:
Also been looking at this, the Beyonce Flawless video. A sprinkling of skinheads, not particularly stylish maybe but generally more authentic than the total designer nightmare presented in the Rihanna We Found Love video a couple of years back.

[VIDEO] [/VIDEO]

Those are some Parisian skinheads from the bands MARABOOTS and LION'S LAW, the latter of which is playing here in Boston in about a week. Paris has a pretty good skinhead scene, with a lot of proper dressers though the scene is mostly geared towards Oi! and hardcore.

covskin · Aug 25, 2014

Botolph said:
Those are some Parisian skinheads from the bands MARABOOTS and LION'S LAW, the latter of which is playing here in Boston in about a week. Paris has a pretty good skinhead scene, with a lot of proper dressers though the scene is mostly geared towards Oi! and hardcore.

So presumably the bloke on the right has the 'hardcore' look, a look taken not from the UK but directly from the US with more of a punk influence.

I am also presuming the bouffant-haired bloke at 0:26 is wearing a stripy French prison shirt? Reminded me that we did the same for a time in my little gang in the early 80s, a white non-button down shirt with blue candystripe issued to those in Youth Custody.

covskin · Aug 25, 2014

covskin said:
Also been looking at this, the Beyonce Flawless video. A sprinkling of skinheads, not particularly stylish maybe but generally more authentic than the total designer nightmare presented in the Rihanna We Found Love video a couple of years back.

[VIDEO] [/VIDEO]

Still intrigued by this uncommon outbreak of authenticity into the mainstream, I had a bit of a google and found the following

http://www.modzik.com/musique/skinheads-parisiens-clip-flawless-beyonce/

Basically, the stylists for the video were completely ignorant of the skinhead look - wanting to style everyone, even the handful of skinheads specifically chosen for their look, in some designer punk nonsense - but the two skinhead girls were having none of it. Yay! that's skinhead girls as I remember them! The director had done his research though and brought the handful of skinheads forward in the edit.

Mr Knightley · Aug 29, 2014

Going back to the relationship between the Look and Italian conservative business dress, I have been spending some time catching up with threads on the other board that cover the latter.

One particular theme that has struck me, and our mate Cleav has been advising me on, is the combination of blues and browns. While I wore both colours back in the day, they were rarely combined. Indeed my old tailor still insists today that wearing brown shoes with a blue suit is wrong. This strikes me as one of the particular challenges for an Englishman trying to approximate the Italian conservative business dress look. And it seems it is where the Look (in our terms) and conservative business dress could be furthest apart.

Nevertheless, I have been experimenting with this combination and hope to post some pics soon.

Mr Knightley · Aug 29, 2014

Here is a new brown grenadine tie from Mark Marengo, worn with blue / grey suit, chestnut colour shoes and rather a ****-brown sock from T&A. The Look goes on? Not sure really.

And finding a suitable pocket square is pretty hard. I stumbled upon this amusing piece:

The Look goes on...

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